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#1 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: FRESNO, CA
Posts: 12,560
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I learned that screwing the mixture screw in, is not lean, but is RICH!
I learned that external oil line to timing gears is not necessary, as oil is flooded to the gears through the cut away in the front wall of the oil reservoir. Yes, I've been quiet for awhile as I'm waiting for the inevitable with Pat and humor is in short supply. ---Bill W.
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"THE ASSISTANT GURU OF STUFF" |
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#2 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Ridgefield, Ct
Posts: 3,443
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Removing hood hinge rods with an electric drill and BP Blaster is one.
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They don't have to run to be enjoyed. I'm here to enjoy the hobby, and enjoy the cars no matter what they look like. Most of the worlds problems are electrical. |
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#3 | |
Senior Member
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#4 |
Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Oregon
Posts: 34
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If at first you don't succeed you dindn't do it right...
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#5 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Ontario, Canada
Posts: 1,470
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I've learned that the Model A engine has magnetic properties.
Opening the hood will attract Model A "mechanics" from a 100 mile radius, scratching your fenders in the process.
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I know a lot of things; I just can't remember them all. 1928 CCPU 82-A 1931 Roadster 40-B Dlx (Canadian) |
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#6 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: FRESNO, CA
Posts: 12,560
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![]() Clean this screen ONLY with the carb off the car, and/or apart!! Bill W.
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"THE ASSISTANT GURU OF STUFF" |
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#7 | |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: South California
Posts: 6,189
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I liked the idea of a guy who used hardwood 'dowel' pins as replacement rods...soaked the dowels first. Inovative ![]() BTW- I used an alternative to the 'wooden' rod version: I bought solid aluminum rod same diam as original rods, at hardware store (Lowes). Cut to length. No need to lube/paint at all , as it is bright. I found that this method....light weight, no rust or appreciable wear and works great ! Last edited by hardtimes; 01-13-2012 at 04:49 PM. Reason: add... |
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#8 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Lincoln, Nebraska
Posts: 1,940
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Put your tools away every time so you can find them every time. Still working on that one.
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#9 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Savannah, GA
Posts: 1,300
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Rear brakes are vital. I've been stopping using only the front brakes for a few years, now Benny Bohanon has rebuilt the rears, I installed them very carefully, and balanced the system. WHAT A DIFFERENCE.
Oh, and buy a REAL hub puller, not an "economy" model. It'll cost you more in shoulder cortisone shots!
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20 years ago we had Johnny Cash, Steve Jobs, and Bob Hope. Now we have no Cash, no Jobs, and no Hope...please don't let Kevin Bacon die! |
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#10 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Wakarusa, IN
Posts: 929
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I like how the original 3X sparkplugs come apart for cleaning. The modern mechanics usually do not believe me when I tell them and are amazed when I show them.
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http://MODELABASICS.com/ How Things Work on a Model "A" Ford Fordbarners, Feel free to use the pictures on my site to answer questions and create tutorials/tech articles. |
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#11 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Posts: 2,622
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Re: Damaged Rear Axle Theads
----------------------------------------------------------------------- Have you ever seen axle shafts with the first 3/8 to 1/2 inch of threads all stripped? I wondered why it is always the first 1/2 inch that is damaged. One cause besides crossthreading is when someone removes the brake hub/drum assemblies. 1. Using a puller is the best way to remove the hub/drum. 2. The common method does the most damage. People loosen the castle nut a couple of turns and hammer on the nut with a BFH to loosen the hub ... wrong wrong wrong! When they beat on the "castle" nut the internal threads on the end of the nut are deformed by the hammer blows. Then when they try to install the brake drums the threads on the axle shafts are damaged and sheared off as they screw the nut back on ... as you have seen. Most damage is in the first 3/8 inch or so as they force the stripped/damaged threads back on and they wonder why the nut goes back on so hard. If one insists on using this method at least remove the nut first, reverse it and beat on the flat end instead of the "castle" end. This does less damage BUT still deforms the threads on the shaft and nut somewhat. If you screw a nut on and it goes easily for about 3/8 to 1/2 inch then gets hard to turn ... It would be a good idea to find an undamaged nut! I wonder how many times someone has dropped an axle nut and it rolled under the bench ... "Oh I have more of those in the can over there" ... they pick out a nut the has the castles all bent and proceed to strip the threads on their axleshaft. Image if they had just spent $1500 (new axles are about $400 each) to replace both axles and rebuild the rear end? Also removing a camshaft timing gear by the same hammering method damages the threads on the cam and nut also, even though there is no castle nut the threads still get damaged by the hammering. __________________ Last edited by Benson; 01-13-2012 at 10:10 AM. |
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#12 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Brooklyn, Michigan "Home of M.I.S."
Posts: 398
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I've learned it's not worth what you have in it.
but it's fun. ![]() |
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#13 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2010
Posts: 1,854
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#14 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: cream ridge, nj
Posts: 173
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Most helpful thing I've learned is joining the Ford Barn.
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Matt from central Jersey |
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#15 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Fairfax, VA
Posts: 3,408
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I've learned to depend on the barn for quality help. Clem
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#16 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: South central Tenn
Posts: 375
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I have learned that every time I pick a hobby to enjoy then all the rich kids in town start doing it too and pay more than what stuff is worth. Then I either have to go broke enjoying it or change my hobby. This is kinda said tongue in cheek, but its also true.
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#17 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Central FL, USA
Posts: 1,149
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28RPU,
How true! How true! AMF/Bob-A |
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#18 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: South East NJ
Posts: 3,398
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The biggest thing for metal work is to understand that every weld is a shrink point, period. You can not stop the shrink, you can only limit the size of the heat affected zone.
When learning about how to work metal I found the video about shrinking metal opened my eyes the most. It was after that I understood enough to make what I thought was impossible possible. |
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#19 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Posts: 451
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...that simple, well-designed and inexpensive can still be a thing of beauty an endure a very long time.
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#20 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Orange, Ca.
Posts: 197
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Don't eat stuff of the sidewalk. ;]
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