Restoring license plates

[mrtexas]

I tried painting the background first and then rolling on the number paint like they were originally made. It didn't work well for me.

My 2nd try is to first spray on the number color, then clear, then the background, then sand off the background color from the numbers. However, I still sand thru the number color in some spots. I'm touching up with an artist's brush before resanding and respraying clear. I'm using rattle can paint. I bought 10 sets cheaply of various Texas 1949 - 1967 plates that need painting and have a 31 and 28 to do as well.

I'm coming to the conclusion that the guys who charge to restore plates must be spraying the background and manually brushing on the numbers or using my second method and using automotive base/clear that is really hard to sand thru.

Anyone know for sure?

[jim1932]

my maryland plates I bought look to be hand painted on the letters and numbers

[Milton]

"I tried painting the background first and then rolling on the number paint like they were originally made. It didn't work well for me."

The roller must be firm. Like a wood dowel with a sheet wrapped around it a couple of times. No knap allowed.

[Mike V. Florida]

Here is what I did. Resore the plate metal, prime and paint the raised number color. Once dry, place a sheet of contact paper over the whole plate and rub down on the raised letters. I took an exacto knife and cut around the letters leaving about 1/16 to 1/8 inch hanging off the letters. I then took the base color and tilting the plate while spraying under the hang off and the rest of the plate.

While the plate is tacky I remove the contact paper and spray clear on the plate to smooth the lines. You can use pin stripe tape for the raised edges of a plate.

[quickchange]

My method is a little crude but works for me, spray number colour 1st, Bake in oven while wife is away, Im useing spray cans, Then spray background colour , when dry or almost, Take cloth dipped in thinners & wipe the numbers & edges of plate. reveals the baked number colour , I have done a lot this way & results are better than my spelling,( who gives a rats arse if some of us can,t spell), Derek from a wet cooler NZ.

[bobgreco]

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I recently did a set of 1929 plates and had fairly good luck with applying the number paint with a rubber grouting float using it like a mini-printing press. The trick is to not use a lot of paint. I had to touch up a few areas with a model brush, but the overall results were pretty good.

The attached photo shows the plate before I touched it up with a model brush. I had to fix of few corners and edges.

[Ray in La Mesa]

Originally Posted by quickchange

My method is a little crude but works for me, spray number colour 1st, Bake in oven while wife is away, Im useing spray cans, Then spray background colour , when dry or almost, Take cloth dipped in thinners & wipe the numbers & edges of plate. reveals the baked number colour , I have done a lot this way & results are better than my spelling,( who gives a rats arse if some of us can,t spell), Derek from a wet cooler NZ.

I did exactly the same thing yesterday (well, almost) I painted the number color and put the plate in the oven to bake but inadvertantly turned the dial to 350, guess I thought I was baking cookies. I came back when I smelled the paint and had burt the color right ought of the paint! Back to the sandblaster & rattle can.

[Aerocraft]

I have done a number of sets of plates for my own cars. After working the metal and filling as required, I prime them with one of the PPG DP series primer colors. I then mix PPG Concept to the correct background color and spray the plates with several coats. When dry, using One Shot, I hand letter the numbers with a brush. That step is actually very easy since mistakes can be wiped off. Gar Williams

[jimalabam]

You are exactly correct in your stated assumptions...

[FL&WVMIKE]

I have seen some beautifully restored plates, done by applying the number color first, very heavily, then putting on the background color. Then you use rubbing compound to remove the background color from the numbers. Some professionals use this method.
MIKE

[glenn in camino]

When I restore plates, I spray the backround color first, let it dry for a few days, and then hand paint the numbers. I use One Shot enamel, mixed to the right color, for the numbers. I thin the enamel and use a rulling pen to do all the straight lines first. Then I fill in between the lines with an artists brush. I've found that thinning the enamel somewhat lets it flow out and eliminate brush marks. I have a pretty steady hand for painting the curved numbers. I'm not a pro. I just paint plates for myself and a few friends. I think the roller method may work if your plates are really flat, but most old plates are at least a little bent.

[2manycars]

I tried the roller method, using a "brayer" from the art store. I found it difficult to do a good job. If the number paint is thick, it leaves little wisps of paint as the roller leaves the plate, and if too thin, it does not cover well. I now do it the hard way, with an artist's brush. It takes me about a half hour to number each plate.

[donQ]

I've tried a few techniques and found that the best one for me is to paint the background first and let it dry for a few days. I then use thin striping tape around the raised portion of the numbers and then use blue painter's tape over the back ground and then mist on several coats using a spray can of the number color. Don't put the nimber color on too thick at once .It might bleed under the tape.
Donq

[Kevin in NJ]

30 years ago I tried to do the roll method to roll on the paint. It failed miserably.

Since then I talked to a guy who restored plates for a living.

The secret to rolling is a flat glass. You roll out the paint to be real thin. Then with a larger diameter hard rubber roller you roll across. Do not worry about making it in one pass. If you look at original plates they are often not done in one pass. You can see the seam.

This process is like what is done on a printing press. You will see the ink is spread very thin so only the tops of the type get the ink. You also do not want the ink building up in the type.

Hope this helps.

[hotrodart]

Originally Posted by Kevin in NJ

30 years ago I tried to do the roll method to roll on the paint. It failed miserably.

Since then I talked to a guy who restored plates for a living.

The secret to rolling is a flat glass. You roll out the paint to be real thin. Then with a larger diameter hard rubber roller you roll across. Do not worry about making it in one pass. If you look at original plates they are often not done in one pass. You can see the seam.

This process is like what is done on a printing press. You will see the ink is spread very thin so only the tops of the type get the ink. You also do not want the ink building up in the type.

Hope this helps.

I used rattle can paint and One Shot with a roller also.......

[mrtexas]

Originally Posted by hotrodart

I used rattle can paint and One Shot with a roller also.......

Can you show me a picture of your roller?

[Pepsi Mechanic]

You'll never guess how I did mine ... I cleaned them and painted the proper colour with a spray can ( 28 ontario plates are an Old Catipilar Yellow ) and are you ready for the black numbers and lettering ......... I used a Black magic marker ... easy to do and weather proof ... the pictures don't do them justice (the numbers look edgy but they are not ) they really did turn out nice. And cost all of $6.00

[Merlin]

Originally Posted by Pepsi Mechanic

I used a Black magic marker ... easy to do and weather proof .

Looks good but the magic marker will fade.

[hotrodart]

Originally Posted by mrtexas

Can you show me a picture of your roller?

Here is the roller I used....got it at a "box store"....very tight knap.....

[mrtexas]

My latest idea is to let a sign painter do it. I found one old timer here who still hand letter signs.