Some Days the Bear Eats You...

[BButturff]

My headlights and parking lights (incandescent bulbs) of my 1931 were working just fine. However, I removed the lenses to clean the inside and noticed that the headlight bulb filaments were not horizontal. In other words, the filaments in both headlight bulbs were "clocked" at about 10 and 4. So I removed the reflectors and found that the headlight sockets did not "key" into the reflectors to keep them from turning when the focus screw is turned as they should. In fact, the key on the socket seems to be about 1/4" short of reaching the slot in the reflector in spite of the focus screw being backed all the way out. The headlight buckets, reflectors and hardware all appear to be correct for a 1931.


So my question is, was there ever a time when repop headlight reflectors were made too shallow? Or maybe the headlamp socket made too short? If not, what could be going on here?

[nkaminar]

Very possible a reproduction error. I suggest you look at one of your buddies cars and compare parts.

I would suggest the new LED bulbs that does not need focusing. Brighter with far less amperage draw.

[Y-Blockhead]

I agree on the LED's but you will still need to keep the bulb from turning. The LED's do have a top and bottom and need to be located in the proper position for high and low beam.

[nkaminar]

Blockhead, Even the ones with the lens built into the LED?

See https://www.mikes-afordable.com/prod...007LEDFOC.html

It says that low beams just draw less amps.

[ModelA29]

Under $30 each here. https://www.ledlight.com/ba15d-led-h...-filament.aspx

[KMBeers]

Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements)

ModelA29, the bulbs in your link look great and are a great price! At the bottom of webpage it says they are for 1916-1936 Chevrolet trucks and cars. Have you used them on your A?

[History]

Originally Posted by KMBeers

ModelA29, the bulbs in your link look great and are a great price! At the bottom of webpage it says they are for 1916-1936 Chevrolet trucks and cars. Have you used them on your A?

Those look exactly like mine at $20 a piece less than I paid.

[BButturff]

UPDATE: I found the following on Snyder's website. If these "other reproductions" are what I have, it explains what I'm seeing.


HEAD LAMP REFLECTOR 2 BULB
Part # A-13025-CX | Model Year 28-31

Highly reflective aluminum finish that provides the same reflective quality as the original silvered reflectors. The finish is sealed so it won't tarnish like silver. Other reproductions don't have the proper depth to allow the head lamp bulbs to focus properly. Sold individually.
2-bulb style.

[CT Jack]

My personal engineering work experience has involved working with solid state laser systems applied to specific areospace applications. The internals of early day laser systems utilized silver plated reflectors which were later replaced with aluminum reflectors. The reflectivity of aluminum reflectors compared to silver plated are equally as reflective. The differences in the illumination properties of incandescent vs. led lamps is significant. The most obvious difference is brightness. The lights on my "A" are all led along with a solid state voltage regulator. My generator is a stock 6volt connected to positive ground wiring. The largest power consumming device in the system is the starter. The led headlights do not replicate the originals instead, they are brighter and use less power. The led lamps I am using have a lens which helps somewhat to focus the beam. The optical technical differences between led's and incandescent lamps are visually noticable when used in the Model A headlight assembly. In addition to being brighter, they use considerably less power and do not dim at engine idle speed. The advantages of using led's in a Model A far exceed those of the origninal incandescents.

[BButturff]

Just want to let everyone know what my solution was. First, since I prefer not to buy new reflectors and I can't "fix" my existing reflectors I decided to replace the existing focus screw with a longer one keeping in mind that a screw that is too long will ground the headlamp socket.

The original is a slotted 10-32x3/4" machine screw and I replaced it with a stainless steel 10-32x1" machine screw. Next, I determined that the tension spring was also too short so I added two 5/16" stainless steel washers stacked between the spring and headlight bucket. Now the focus mechanism works as it should and, more importantly, a bulb can be inserted and twisted without the entire socket twisting. Voila!

Lastly, based on the input from all of you I'll be upgrading to LED headlight bulbs in the very near future.

[History]

I have both types of leds and much prefer the ones with lense, especially if your reflectors are worn or tarnished. They are focusable (is that a real word?) so you are not blinding oncoming traffic. I did have one not come on and the vibration had worn the lead contact down so I soldered on more and tightened it up and all is good. LEDs are great but the bright white color, I’d say eventually they will be able to soften that up.

[w.michael]

Yes, reproduction reflectors made in years past were too shallow. I purchased reflectors in approximately 2008 that are too shallow, and I am having exactly the same problem BButturff describes above. And yes, the pre focused LED bulbs do need to be clocked correctly.

Shortly after I purchased my repro reflectors, Brattons began producing the correctly shaped reflectors that are now available. I am either going to bite the bullet and buy new reflectors, or perhaps try the “longer screw plus washers” method which BBturff has done. My problem came to light (pun intended) when I switched over to LEDs. The LEDs are more finicky about a good ground, and I am having trouble maintains a constant solid ground connection.

W. Michael

[BButturff]

Originally Posted by w.michael

Yes, reproduction reflectors made in years past were too shallow. I purchased reflectors in approximately 2008 that are too shallow, and I am having exactly the same problem BButturff describes above. And yes, the pre focused LED bulbs do need to be clocked correctly.

Shortly after I purchased my repro reflectors, Brattons began producing the correctly shaped reflectors that are now available. I am either going to bite the bullet and buy new reflectors, or perhaps try the “longer screw plus washers” method which BBturff has done. My problem came to light (pun intended) when I switched over to LEDs. The LEDs are more finicky about a good ground, and I am having trouble maintains a constant solid ground connection.

W. Michael

Thanks for your input. I live in a pretty small town so access to hardware is limited. Unfortunately, the screws I could find here are stainless steel and tapered head but not slotted. They are <gasp> allen head screws. The next time I place an order I plan to get screws from the 28-29 headlights and try them. Those buckets are deeper so the screws should be longer and have the proper slotted heads. FWIW, placing washers under the springs to increase the tension should help your grounding.

[w.michael]

I plan to get screws from the 28-29 headlights and try them. Those buckets are deeper so the screws should be longer and have the proper slotted heads.

BB, I don’t think the 28-29 screws are longer. It is the socket that is longer to fit the deeper 28-29 buckets.

And Allen head screws aren’t the worst.You can always claim it’s a Canadian car. At least they aren’t (shudder) Phillips heads!

W. Michael

[BButturff]

Originally Posted by w.michael

I plan to get screws from the 28-29 headlights and try them. Those buckets are deeper so the screws should be longer and have the proper slotted heads.

BB, I don’t think the 28-29 screws are longer. It is the socket that is longer to fit the deeper 28-29 buckets.

And Allen head screws aren’t the worst.You can always claim it’s a Canadian car. At least they aren’t (shudder) Phillips heads!

W. Michael

You could be right. I looked on Snyder's website and the 28-29 screws and springs come as a set and has a different part number (A-13101-2A) than the 30-31 (A-13101-2B). Both the screw and spring appear to be longer but it could be that just the spring is longer or larger diameter. They're not likely stainless steel for the money but for $1.50 I think it's worth a try.