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#1 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2018
Location: Ottawa, ON
Posts: 992
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Bought this with a bunch of other parts probably in 2018/19. IIRC, the seller said it was from a 28/29. Looking at these spindles they look pretty bad. A while back I think I saw you good buy a “sleeve”. Is it salvageable?
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#2 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2022
Location: Canton, Michigan
Posts: 321
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That looks chewed up pretty bad. if you machine it, it will just get smaller. I am no expert. I am still learning about my Model A
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--------------------------------------- 1929 Model A Tudor - "Darla" '29 Model A: Old enough to start with a crank, young enough to steal the show! "Stay away from negative people, they have a problem for every solution" Model A Ford Club of America Model A Restorers Club Motor City A's Club |
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#3 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Victoria, Australia
Posts: 1,241
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The other parts might be OK. If some bits are usable, then it's worth saving. I use old axles to make other parts, like pedal shafts, sleeving the front axle where the king pin goes through etc.
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#4 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2020
Location: SF Bay Area
Posts: 2,104
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I think the sleeve you mention is a thin metal piece that is used primarily to move the hub farther out on the axle shaft to provide additional clearance between the drum and the backing plate. It would not be appropriate to use to attempt to salvage that chowdered up taper. If you really need to reuse that axle it would need to be set up in a lathe, turned down, built up with weld or spray metal, and then turned to original specs. Unless you can do the work yourself, likely not any less expensive than a new axle, likely much more expensive than finding a good used axle.
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JayJay San Francisco Bay Area ------------------------ 1930 Murray Town Sedan 1931 Briggs S/W Town Sedan It isn't a defect, it's a feature! |
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#5 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: NNNNNNNNJJJJJJJJJJ
Posts: 7,647
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scrap metal............
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#6 |
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Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Cow Hampshire
Posts: 4,610
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I was going to say if you machine it, you'll have to "depth" the keyway. But if you use a sleeve, you shouldn't have to. More important is the condition of the threads. You'll be tempted to use a die to "recut/restore" the thread, but DON'T. The original threads are "rolled" into the shaft and you need a "thread restoration tool" which "presses" the thread back into shape. ![]() Mine is a little later tool and it has a clamp/thumbnut to pull the press dies together. Check where the shaft seal "sits" on the shaft. Sometimes the seal wears a groove here. Joe K
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Shudda kept the horse. |
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#7 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Long Island, NY
Posts: 4,112
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The drum spun on that axle because the shear key failed. If the key-way is in good shape, I would use 180 Grit abrasive paper to knockoff any high spots, chase 5/8-18 threads and use this axle. Make sure there is no crack starting at the top of the key-way.
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Bob Bidonde |
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#8 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Western North Carolina
Posts: 5,854
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Disassemble the differential and install new axles. Or have the axles metal sprayed and re machined. To my eyes, it looks too bad to try and use.
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A is for apple, green as the sky. Step on the gas, for tomorrow I die. Forget the brakes, they really don't work. The clutch always sticks, and starts with a jerk. My car grows red hair, and flies through the air. Driving's a blast, a blast from the past. |
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#9 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2021
Posts: 243
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That taper is kaput, done, junk. Anyone who tells you to use it, ask them if they will guarantee it won't break. It is well on its way to failing if you do use it. Other parts in the rear end may be of value to someone.
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#10 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2018
Location: Ottawa, ON
Posts: 992
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Can you just swap out the shafts with ones from another diff?
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#11 |
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Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: NNNNNNNNJJJJJJJJJJ
Posts: 7,647
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rears are cheap- guess everyone is bored............. lol
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#12 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Western North Carolina
Posts: 5,854
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Yes, you can swap out axles. People on the Barn have reported that the original axles are better than the repos. Just make sure the ones you use are in good shape. The taper, keyway, and threads should all be as new. The differential gears at the other end of the axles normally do not wear and are usually good.
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A is for apple, green as the sky. Step on the gas, for tomorrow I die. Forget the brakes, they really don't work. The clutch always sticks, and starts with a jerk. My car grows red hair, and flies through the air. Driving's a blast, a blast from the past. |
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#13 | |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2020
Location: SF Bay Area
Posts: 2,104
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![]() Quote:
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JayJay San Francisco Bay Area ------------------------ 1930 Murray Town Sedan 1931 Briggs S/W Town Sedan It isn't a defect, it's a feature! |
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#14 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2022
Location: SoCal
Posts: 1,152
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It's junk. It can be fixed but why when there are good ones to be had cheap. Using it as is or with a shim could work but it will be a weak point and could fail at the most inopportune time. Plus you lose all the time you expended getting this one to work when it fails and you have to do it all over again.
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#15 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: NNNNNNNNJJJJJJJJJJ
Posts: 7,647
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Im with you 29.
time has no value anymore.............. |
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#16 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2018
Location: Ottawa, ON
Posts: 992
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I’m all into fixing/keeping vintage parts. Rebuilt my helmet dist, Holley 94, fuel pump, oil pump, and assembled the C59A long block. Built my own chassis, etc. Have a small lathe as well, but being a relative newb to old Ford stuff just looking for ideas/opinions. I’ll break open the diff centre in the next few weeks to check out if it’s good and will report back.
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