1932 Ford Model B transmission leak fix ideas

[37 Coupe]

I have pulled the engine and transmission to address the oil pan and the much worse rear of transmission leak. Only 300 miles on the engine and transmission rebuild when I bought this 5 window last October. Looks like previous owner used an entire tube of silicone sealant to slow leak that is probably coming from the two shafts idler that penetrate the rear of case but also the main shaft. Used to be cures like O Ring shafts but do not see them available anymore. Another was to use red loctite on shafts and hope it doesn't ooze into a gear bore before it sets up or trouble next rebuild or repair. Also another interesting thing I found was two missing 7/16" bolts upper part of flywheel housing to engine block. Might have been a good thing as I can see a gap where on a Model A there would be brass shim or two.Not as critical as Model A? but glad someone didn't torque bolts down and break or distort the two upper ears on housing.

[hotcoupe]

I have my transmission case at the machine shop now, the front of the counter shaft bore will be counter bored for a 7/8" Welch plug. The countershaft and reverse idler is type "N" Thompson shafting (from memory), measures 0.750", and an "O" ring groove will be machined on the transmission side of the retaining pin at the rear of the transmission.
Tom

[KiWinUS]

Black 3M weatherstripping sealant is the answer. Too easy. Must be cleaned perfectly oil free coat ends of shafts then with pin out fill cavity with it hold finger over one end and insert pin back in. Pin shaft and coat both ends with more 3 m. Let dry 24 hours and you will be leak free for a very long time. Have had excellent results with this for many many years. Too easy.

[37 Coupe]

Originally Posted by KiWinUS

Black 3M weatherstripping sealant is the answer. Too easy. Must be cleaned perfectly oil free coat ends of shafts then with pin out fill cavity with it hold finger over one end and insert pin back in. Pin shaft and coat both ends with more 3 m. Let dry 24 hours and you will be leak free for a very long time. Have had excellent results with this for many many years. Too easy.

I like this tip ,would never thought of using black 3M. ALways assumed just shafts were culprits not focusing on locking pin as much but many years ago on a '39 trans.

[KiWinUS]

Originally Posted by 37 Coupe

I like this tip ,would never thought of using black 3M. ALways assumed just shafts were culprits not focusing on locking pin as much but many years ago on a '39 trans.

I have been using it for over 50 years. It’s hard to get off but no leaked. Best gasket cement ever.

[Bored&Stroked]

Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements)

I use my toolpost grinder to o-ring the shafts . . . works great (though you have to have the tools. Also, I shorten the retaining pin in the rear and tap the case for two 5/16 allen plugs (to seal the ends).

[DavidG]

I agree with KiWinUS, the retaining pin holes are more the culprit than the shaft ends. Also that absolute oil free is the starting point.


I don't recall having a leak of note at the front, but there's a reason that they added a oil seal on the '35s.

[rockfla]

This is what I use and swear by.....IF it helps

[Tim Ayers]

At MacVP's class, he also stated that the lock pin is the source of many leaks.