Oil filter return line

[Reds34]

I was wondering if it's possible to plumb the return from the oil filter into the intake manifold. There is a boss at the rear of the intake by the fuel pump stand. I understand I can (read should) return it to the oil pan. I really don't want to pull the pan off to pipe it in, so I was wondering if I could plumb it in to the manifold. I am including a photo with the boss in question circled. Thanks guys.

Red

[19Fordy]

You might end up having so much oil going into the valley that your pan is low on oil.

[Jack E/NJ]

Probably could whip something up using the hole in the pan for the dipstick tube.

[GB SISSON]

Originally Posted by Jack E/NJ

Probably could whip something up using the hole in the pan for the dipstick tube.

I recall the tube is threaded into the cast boss. If it's a pipe thread you could put a close nipple at the boss, then a tee and a shortened dipstick tube. Or punch holes high up on the pan for a 1/8" pipe flange. 4 self tappers and a neoprene fender washer from the drawers in the hardware store for a gasket, or gasket maker in a tube. This may require drilling a conical depression (without going through ) before punching.

[Kube]

The very first routing of an authorized filter returned the oil to a special fitting that replaced the left bolt; fuel pump to stand.
The second routing went to the timing cover via a special bolt.
This routing was changed as it seemed mechanics were installing that special bolt at the fuel pump stand not where I'd previously noted but rather, they would replace the left bolt that held the stand to the valve chamber cover.
This easier to install "modification" worked but resulted in a higher consumption of oil.
Thus, the second design to the timing gear cover.
The third design, 1941, routed the oil back to a boss near the front (left side) of the oil pan. And finally, 1942, a special fitting was riveted to the pan held both the dipstick and a boss for the return line. Simply eliminating a separate fitting on the pan.

The bottom line in my opinion? Where you are thinking of installing the return line would not be a very good choice.
Ford rarely (ever?) changed things for no reason.

[Automotive Stud]

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One of my flatheads has the oil return line going into a fitting in the center of the fuel pump blockoff plate. Works fine.

[GB SISSON]

It was such a beautiful sunny morning I decided to test out my hole punching in one of my scrap piles. Turns out it's really not the best thing. Remember the 'Hanging chad, or Dangling chad' from the Florida voting punch cards a few elections back? I had a naaging feeling this may occur, so I tested a couple of scrap pans, a 223 ford six and a G flathead ford six. They definately needed the depression (from a 3/8" drill bit) but the G pan was not installed on an engine so I got to look 'inside'. Yup, some dangling steel chad. Nothing that fell off, but a bit too close for comfort. So I officially retract my idea. I think that if it was just pierced and not pre-drilled, the exit wound might be more sound.

[Reds34]

I ordered a dipstick tube boss with the oil return boss, but will it fit on a '34 pan? It looks to be the same size as the newer pans with the bigger tube and different dipstick.
Thanks again guys.

Red

[Mart]

It ought to be pointed out that the intake manifold is an early one without the improved breather design in that area. In my view, the original idea to return the oil in that area would probably be ok. Later motors had a tubular baffle plate that directs the air flow through the engine. Without that the marginal improvements brought about by different oil return points are probably moot.

Mart.

[richard crow]

i have seen maney flat head oil return line having a banjo fiting on one end and a specal bolt going through the fuel pump where it attached to the fuel pump stand .also the same set up going to one of the timing gear cover

[Bored&Stroked]

If the engine is apart, I'd always return the oil to the pan. If the engine is together, I kind of like the timing cover approach.

BTW: This ONLY applies to the old Fram "drip feed" types of filters - not to any sort of 95% full-flow setup.

[Reds34]

Thank you all for your input. The engine is already together and it is a bypass spin on filter. I may pull the pan and see if I can switch the dipstick tube boss for one that has a return hole in it.

Red

[Jack E/NJ]

> > I may pull the pan and see if I can switch the dipstick tube boss for one that has a return hole in it.> >



I'd probably keep the existing boss. Either eliminate the dipstick tube. Or use a dipstick tube with a cap that screws into a tee in the existing boss. Unscrew cap to check level. I rarely check the level between changes anyway. So a dipstick isn't really necessary or the inconvenience of removing a cap isn't that great..