Steering bracket screws

[dan]

Hello again… I need to lower the steering column in my 29 Tudor to replace the horn rod. The screws that hold the yoke to the bracket are stuck. I’ve tried penetrating oil but no luck. I’m tempted to try an impact screwdriver but nervous that the impact will transfer up through the bracket and booger something up. Any advice or suggestions?

[Benson]

delete ... I noticed that you mentioned the Attack Driver which is my choice.

[gdmn852]

Hello, if you can find someone to hold up on the steering column when you are trying to remove the screws might help , also make sure that the front end isn’t loading the column itself, sorry I can’t remember which way the wheel should be turned.Good luck, hopefully get more responses.

[nkaminar]

The impact screwdriver is your best bet, but you are right to be concerned about where the bracket attaches to the tank. You might try what gdmn852 suggested above (for I think different screws) and have someone pull the steering wheel down so that the impact is against the column not the bracket.

Probably a bad place to try heat, being so close to the tank, but maybe some gentle heat from a heat gun.

[MilwaukeeMike]

Aerokroil has some magical properties. Try to get some on both ends of the screws and give it some time. The impact driver will have a better chance after that.

[Will N]

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Find a screwdriver with a blade that will fit the slot in the screw head tightly. Put a wrench on the shaft (if it's a round shaft, use a vice grip). Push that screwdriver up, use the wrench to turn it.

[gdmn852]

Hello again, desperate , last chance option would be to drill the heads off , but then would have to drill and tap the holes . Don’t want to use too much heat either, the bracket is soldered to the tank to prevent gas leak, also riveted, some people have gone to the later 1931 bracket that attaches to cowl area rather than tank , if you can’t redrill and tap original .

[40-A Twins]

Drilling the heads off will leave a short stub sticking out that can be grabbed with vice grips. Redrilling and tapping the bracket is still an option if the stub can't be unscrewed

[Keith True]

Use a screwdriver bit on a 3/8 ratchet.Start with a new one that fits tightly,not the old half rounded off ones that are kicking around the toolbox.Carve the dirt/rust/mung out of the screw slot,and tap the bit into it.If it is loose you need a bigger bit,and if the slots are boogered up you will need to grind the bit to make it tight.If you won't make the bit fit tightly,you are just wasting your time.You can rig up a stick and a jack to hold the bit in the slot.It will take a little fiddling to get the jack and stick in a perfectly straight line to push squarely on the bit.You want to press hard enough against the head of that ratchet so there is no chance of the bit twisting out of the slot.That way all the force you use goes into twisting the bit,not trying to hold it in there by hand.If the bit is being held in there by a jack,you can put a huge amount of force into twisting.

[Cape Codder]

I find using a ratchet along with short extension works well rater than a screwdriver. It seems there is a little more torque on your screw this way!

Hoping for the BEST for you because drilling out screws or bolts has never been kind to me.

[nkaminar]

One other thing to try is to put the screwdriver in a vice and hammer the end to raise a burr. The burr will help to grab the screw.

[Big hammer]

One more good use of valve grinding compound, put a dab on the end of the screwdriver

[ursus]

Been there and did the following:
Start a 1/16 inch reverse drill bit in the center of the slot. Make sure it is properly aligned with the track of the screw and start slowly with the drill in reverse. Pulse the drill speed and flush the drilling with WD-40 every 1/8 inch of depth to a total depth of just over 1 inch. You are now just beyond the end of the screw so shoot in something like PB-Blaster or AeroKroil which will leak down into the threads from above.

Try the screw with a screw driver and, if still tight, repeat the above with a 1/8 inch reverse bit. If that fails, go to a 3/16 inch bit. Usually the twist and vibration of the reverse drill process will work the screw loose and - Voila! - it is out.

You're working from a difficult position so resist the urge to rush this process - time and patience are the watchwords. This is one fitting you don't want to mess up!

[Benson]

1. SUGGESTINS of using tight fitting screw driver blade and valve grinding compound in slot are good.

2. Also use a blade in an electric impact driver with 1/4 hex bits. The 700 inch/pound size with speed adjustment. Use procedure in step 3 below if adjustable.

Dewalt and Milwaukee small electric impacts have 3 or 4 speeds.
Low speed works well.

3. If you have a smaller AIR impact with adjustment on the air pressure. Turn the pressure down low so the gun goes SLOWLY ... bump ... bump ... bump ... (one bump per second or so)

4. My experience is that if I set impact (on slow) to tighten a "couple of bumps.
Then loosen a "couple of bumps" ... followed by tightening ... repeat over and over.