New Member/"New" Truck

[NCSUDucker]

Hello all. I picked up my first ever classic, a 1938 truck. I'm a high school woodworking teacher and wooden boat builder for over 20 years, and also own Compass Woodworks Co (which is the reason for the truck purchase) but am a newbie when it comes to automotive. The truck is solid as can be and starts and runs well. The brakes definitely need adjusting and I hope to have that taken care of soon.

The story behind the truck. It was Kentucky barn find. The owner bought and brought it to a well known shop/mechanic here in Salisbury, NC with the plan to restore it. He gave the mechanic 3k to get it running. Unfortunately the mechanic passed away unexpectedly. The motor is clean as a whistle and the frame is solid as can be. From what I can tell, he installed a 6v alternator, new fan and it's no longer wired with the positive to frame (from what I've read) again forgive me as I'm learning as I go.

I have been pouring over threads, things to fix, upgrade or refurbish.

1)keeping the patina and going with the Poppy's clear coat matte
2) Company logo on the door
3) Brakes adjusted....maybe upgrade to discs
4) New tires (ordered)
5) upgrade to 12v?
6) headlights need to be rewired
7) heater?

Any suggestions, thoughts/advice, or resources, I am all ears. Like I said I'm a newbie.

Thanks!
Brad

[petehoovie]

Originally Posted by NCSUDucker

Hello all. I picked up my first ever classic, a 1938 truck. I'm a high school woodworking teacher and wooden boat builder for over 20 years, and also own Compass Woodworks Co (which is the reason for the truck purchase) but am a newbie when it comes to automotive. The truck is solid as can be and starts and runs well. The brakes definitely need adjusting and I hope to have that taken care of soon.

The story behind the truck. It was Kentucky barn find. The owner bought and brought it to a well known shop/mechanic here in Salisbury, NC with the plan to restore it. He gave the mechanic 3k to get it running. Unfortunately the mechanic passed away unexpectedly. The motor is clean as a whistle and the frame is solid as can be. From what I can tell, he installed a 6v alternator, new fan and it's no longer wired with the positive to frame (from what I've read) again forgive me as I'm learning as I go.

I have been pouring over threads, things to fix, upgrade or refurbish.

1)keeping the patina and going with the Poppy's clear coat matte
2) Company logo on the door
3) Brakes adjusted....maybe upgrade to discs
4) New tires (ordered)
5) upgrade to 12v?
6) headlights need to be rewired
7) heater?

Any suggestions, thoughts/advice, or resources, I am all ears. Like I said I'm a newbie.

Thanks!
Brad

[nelsb01]

If it runs and you like it, dont complicate your newbie status with converting it to 12 volts. It's not that hard to switch back to positive ground either.

New wiring is available from a number of re-production vendors. (even with an alternator)
Brakes parts are also available and would be a great place to start (after the re-wire).

Heaters -- are they needed where you live? Probably not, so one more thing not to worry about.

Fix what you can, ask for help for what you can't and enjoy a great old Ford pickup.

[ford38v8]

Brad, you've a great looking truck there, which doesn't need any clearcoat to preserve the patina. In fact, a clearcoat may modify the appearance of the patina to something you may not appreciate. All you need is some cheap paste wax to keep it fresh and looking good. I love the rear fender brace also!

About the brakes, your truck should have cable brakes, which is far and away better than any Ford hydraulic brakes until 1949. Work with those cable brakes to bring them up to snuff and you'll be very happy with the results. They will require more than adjusting, probably new clevises, perhaps new cables, maybe new cross shaft bearings, and will definitely show a major benefit with the installation of a modifier called "floaters", which converts the system to a Bendix type adjustment using a brake spoon instead of a wrench. This easy modification is very successfully used with Ford mechanical cable brakes. Disc brakes? That's a headache you don't need.

About your alternator, I don't know of an alternator that is able to support a fan, which is probably why I don't see a fan in your pictures. As cooling can be an issue with Ford Flathead engines, I'd suggest that you consider returning to the use of a generator. Yours came with a 3 brush generator and a cut-out, but I'd upgrade to a 2 brush generator with a voltage regulator. On second thought, I'm not sure your truck originally had a generator mounted fan, but if it did, this is the way to go rather than with an electric fan. Either way, a fan shroud is a good idea also.

While speaking of electrics, you'd do well to rewire the entire truck, harnesses are available from multiple sources, which may be ordered to include turn signal wires should you later decide to install them. All connection bullets should be soldered to help eliminate resistance, and headlights need new reflectors, and opt for LED bulbs for brightness.

If you need a heater, go for a 1939 or later Ford (preferably) hot water heater. Whatever name, hot water is the way to go, not hot air, not gasoline burning, you're not in Alaska.

Your company logo on the doors is a great idea, look for a sign painter that can make it look as old as the truck!

One more thing... Join the Early Ford V8 Club Of America. It's a worldwide club, with lots of friendly help available everywhere you turn. You mentioned Kentucky, if that's where you are, there are two Kentucky Regional Groups, one in Louisville, the other in Frankfort. Welcome to Ford Country!

[deuce_roadster]

Welcome! You have already got a lot of good advice from a very experienced member of this forum. I would add that if you can find NOS cables and lube them you will eliminate the possibility of frayed wires inside the sheath they reside in which can prevent the brakes from releasing. I have seen that happen on 37 cars and I would think the 38 cables would be similar. A spare stock coil rebuilt by Skip Haney would be a good thing to install if it hasn't already been rebuilt. You don't need 12 volts when everything is the way it is supposed to be.
Good luck and keep asking questions.

[KiWinUS]

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Welcome aboard. Some great people on here. Great truck enjoy it too the max. Keep it simple. A suggestion would be to put your location up there with your handle.
Cheers
Tony

[FortyNiner]

Get it running, put some miles on the rig, and then decide on upgrades. Old Iron will tell what's needed. Enjoy.

[Bob C]

Welcome. Here's a picture of the generator mounted fan.

[petehoovie]

Originally Posted by Bob C

Welcome. Here's a picture of the generator mounted fan.

[GB SISSON]

Welcome to the fordbarn forums. We have some paralells as I have been a career woodworker for 52 years now and my first flathead V8 vehicle was a '38 one ton pickup. I also found that the cable brakes worked very well and with a huge deer population, had many occasions to lock up the brakes. In the mid 90's I was able to find a set of new cables and I kept them adjusted by the book. I think you will enjoy driving and working on this truck and don't get discouraged when you don't understand how to address a problem. Just show up here and you will find a small army of willing experts more than happy to share their knowledge. Happy motoring!

[Clem Clement]

WOW, Love your’38 wheels
I had a ’39 pickup until just recently. as I had to move into a retirement home with a shortage of spaces.
LOVE THE PATIMA: especially the right rear fender and brace Don’t change it: just be sure it is safe to use. Them ‘38/39 rear fenders don’t exist. Mine are a pair of coupe fenders we thought. Some body slapped them on and I was thrilled. The space where the front of the fender meets the running board did not exactly fit so good.
Unrestored Pickups usually have bad rear fenders.
Take time to study everything about your rig. Work vehicles usually have bailing wire, mud, oil cans for patching sheet metal, etc. Uncle Raeman bought a new pickup in1937, run it thru a cornfield to show it off to a friend, slopped them pigs on the way and grabbed a bushel of tomats home to Gramma. I hate the look of a shiny new vehicle. Gimmea well used worn truck that done many good work days. About AC: if you get the sliding back window kit (first offered in 1935) open it and the cool air blowing ii from the rear will cool ya any time.
Study the funny grease fitting/bolt on the front and rear springs in the center. If correct, grease can be applied and it will ooze in a center-of-the spring and lub the entire spring set. Mike at Third Gen make a correct version of the fitting. Carpenter had NOS front springs for $100 the set, already greased, sure helped me,
You will need the Ford green Book. It is must: lots of diagrams and part ID’s. (buy it used on Fordbarn) The 1938 accessories pamphlet has a great diagram of the frame and positions of brakes, wires, etc. I had such for my ‘39 which has juice brakes I had not seen a diagram anywhere else. (You should have cables as 38 was the l last year. No need to convert.
Front windshield crank should mount facing you. That was changed for safety to upright in ’39. Some guy in Ohio makes the radial replacement gear. Great to have.
I’m so jealous. I have never had more fun with meeting folks, research, sleeping in my van at Hershey searching for the parts, learning and loving my pickup (it is NOT a truck.)
If someone could email me, a can send them photos of posting.
Some repo parts are available. 6-volt battery is fine.
Replacement fuel gauges don’t work the commercial. I got one for $15 from some junkers in Arizonia thru Fordbarn.
Good luck finding a sun visor!!!I the tough things include: glove compartment clock; second wiper; grill (saw an NOS one at Hershy for $1200. too good for me) Hood latch mech is; fan shield comes from trucks. Great to have; Pau Lee makes steering wheel repairs. USE John Deere corn grease for the universal and steering box. (available at TSC)
The sliding window wire-screen is not findable.
At most outings with my pickup, folks love to lean on a side or the tail gate for chat. Loved the scene!!!, the little plate between the pedals is challenging. A gallon paint can metal will suffice. If your door handles are sagging, the little coiled /colored springs are available (I forget the color. Installing is a challenge (use locking pliers to tightly wind the spring for installation. GOOD LUCK,
Don’t paint nuthin. Save the right rear fender brace: love it.
Ask anything on Ford Barn. There ain’t no dumb questions i.e. What is the correct horn bracket for the ’38 peecup???

Hope I caused some excitement over Ford Pickups!!

[Clem Clement]

Oil filter on a '38?

[ndnchf]

Great find, very cool truck! Keep it as original as possible. I restore original generators and can probably help you out if interested.

[drfromnc]

I’m a newbie too but 3 years into my build. My 34 pickup was not a complete running and driving pu. Wish it had been because I’m itching to drive it.

Agree with others. leave the patina. I’d get the pickup mechanical/electrical components working in safe condition and drive it some while you learn all you can about what you like/dislike about the pu. I’d change all the fluids too.

Spend as much time as you can on here searching for answers to questions (that have been asked before, trust me) or asking questions. This forum will become an invaluable learning tool for you.

Online parts resources I’ve relied on are: Third Gen Automotive, Van pelt sales, C&G ford parts and classified ads on here.

[Planojc]

She's a beauty.

[NCSUDucker]

Wow....thank you all! Never expected so many responses. I will take some more pictures especially of the engine bay. Again, I'm a newb but I'm pretty sure I have an alternator with the fan mounted to it. The oil pressure and temperature gauge are unplugged and can't seem to find what they were plugged in to. Is there a good resource for a wiring diagram? I've been looking at all of the wiring harnesses, just need to figure out the correct ones and the ones I need. I would like to add a passenger side rear view mirror but would like to find an old one vs the new chrome. Anyone have one laying around?

So I've noticed in the little bit of limited driving shifting gears will grind a bit sometimes, typically not going up in gears but down. Is this normal or would this be more likely an indication of the clutch going out. The truck has about 58K in miles and is believed to be the correct amount.

Thanks and looking forward to the journey.

Brad

[pavilla]

I like the look of your truck. Mine was fully restored when I bought it and I love it, but I also sort of covet a truck with a good patina and some character.

Flathead Ted Floaters are a relatively easy upgrade and good bang for the buck. I put them on my '33 Model B and at the speeds I drive, and with a little foresight when approaching objects and intersections, I feel safe enough.

[farmertom]

Originally Posted by pavilla

I like the look of your truck. Mine was fully restored when I bought it and I love it, but I also sort of covet a truck with a good patina and some character.

Flathead Ted Floaters are a relatively easy upgrade and good bang for the buck. I put them on my '33 Model B and at the speeds I drive, and with a little foresight when approaching objects and intersections, I feel safe enough.

I believe ford had the factory brake floaters starting with the '37 models,unless flatheadteds floaters are superior than fords. Tom.

[51504bat]

Here are some photos of my '39 p/u. I had a local sign painter/pin striper do the doors. Big no to any type of paint type clear coating. Try Gibbs oil if you want to preserve the patina. My '39 has an 8ba so no fan generator mount issue. Many won't agree with me but when you rewire your truck convert it to 12 volts. If you want a 12 volt original looking generator that is an alternator look into E.J. Whitney in Fullerton, CA JMO
Classic Automotive - Converting Vintage Automotive Generators to Alternators: E.J. Whitney Company, Inc. - Fullerton California

[mfirth]

Keep on truck'n you guys, I love them all. I'd leave the brace too.....