1940 Front Wheel Cylinders

[mike42]

Hey Guys ....

Just took the left wheel cylinder apart and one of the plungers came out very easy & the other was locked up. Finally was able to get it out and some work.

I bought a small hone and was wondering how much honing has to be done and when do I know I'm complete ? Also...do I use brake fluid to keep it wet as I'm doing it or something like 3 in 1 type oil ?

Thx very much.

Mike

[19Fordy]

First, look and see if interior of wheel cylinder is pitted. If it is, probably time for a new one. Hone using brake fluid as the lubricant and you might be able to save it. Check the plunger also as they deteriorate and become pitted also. Buy a wheel cylinder repair kit. Here's a start but, lots of places sell the parts.
https://www.ebay.com/b/Brake-Wheel-C.../bn_7063924290

[mike42]

Thx Fordy. I'm cleaning things up right now so I can scope it all out !!

Thx again !

[19Fordy]

Originally Posted by mike42

Thx Fordy. I'm cleaning things up right now so I can scope it all out !!

Thx again !

One more thought. Even if you have to buy new wheel cylinder, save the old ones as at some point down the road you can get it re-sleeved. I this White post restorations used to do it. Maybe they still do. Here's a few companies that re sleeve wheel cylinders. At some point OEM wheel cylinders will be impossible to find.

[Kube]

Originally Posted by mike42

Thx Fordy. I'm cleaning things up right now so I can scope it all out !!

Thx again !

I'd recently purchased good quality cylinders from Mike Driskell. I would suggest you replace the cylinders. Considering the minimal cost, just do it.

[mike42]

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Guys ....I clean everything up and there is no pitting at all. The plungers were coated with what looked like shellac ! I clean them up with my brush wheel and put back into the cylinder and they now fit and move just fine. I think things were just gummed up after sitting all those years. I'm getting the drum turned and will have it this week and will put everything back together by the weekend I hope to see how things go. I bought "speed bleeders" and will try them out too.

If this doesn't work I will buy new cylinders.

I have the tool to remove the rear hubs as I heard that can be a bitch of a job.

Thx for the help.

Mike

[19Fordy]

Mike: To be safe you might want to do all 4 wheels and the master cylinder. They probably all have "build up" of crud.

[russcc]

Suggest you reassemble the wheel cylinders with Mckay brake cylinder lube, available on Ebay, $10, incl shipping.

[bobH]

Originally Posted by russcc

Suggest you reassemble the wheel cylinders with Mckay brake cylinder lube, available on Ebay, $10, incl shipping.

Yes, and for good reason. Assembly lube does NOT attract moisture. Never-ever-ever assemble with the pistons wet with brake fluid. That's what causes them to gum up, stick, and eventually rust. JMHO

[mike42]

Fordy.....I'm only doing one wheel at a time. Last time I put on brakes was 1963 on my 1956 Ford Convert !! Long time ago, so I'm taking my time to learn of the first one.

Russ & Bob .....good point on the assembly grease ! Thx on that.

Picked up the drum yesterday and the guy told me that this is a good piece of steel to work with and that I have a lot more material that could come off as needed. These are original with Ford Logo. Only 86,000 miles on the car.

Thx all....Mike

[19Fordy]

Sounds good Mike. Let us know how it all works out.
You were fortunate to find such good OEM drums. Well done.

[joe 1950]

Be sure to rebuild with new cyl. kits never rebuild with old seals and cups

[mike42]

Joe ...yes new kit with seals from C & G made in USA.

I used some brake cleaner to clean out the cylinder and I then used a very light coating of the packing grease on the inside and assembled. They slide well.

Another question....at the bottom of the new shoes....there is a hole that an insert goes into. I had to take out the ones from the old shoes and cleaned them up. Do those inserts go in a special way ?

The shoe with more service braking material goes to the front. Am I correct on that ?

I really appreciate all your help !!!

Mike

[russcc]

The holes in the shoes & brass eccentric cams and anchor bolts at the bottom of the shoes adjust the position of the shoes on '40 brakes. Suggest you see if you can find Rumble seat's post on brakes. He did an excellent job, bless his soul. The bottom adjusters s/be installed a specific way, with dots or arrows facing each other. I mark the backing plate as to where the lobe of the adjusters will be when the they are installed correctly, and orient the eccentrics in the shoes to line up with the adjusters before installing them. It makes it a lot easier than trying to find the right place to put the adjusters in so they line up right.

[JSeery]

Mike, the longer shoe (more brake liner material) goes toward the front on Lockheed brakes.

[earlyride]

Originally Posted by JSeery

Mike, the longer shoe (more brake liner material) goes toward the front on Lockheed brakes.

Normally the longer shoe goes to the rear, are the lockheed brakes different than, lets say bendix or any other shoe brand? Just asking

[rich b]

Originally Posted by earlyride

Normally the longer shoe goes to the rear, are the lockheed brakes different than, lets say bendix or any other shoe brand? Just asking

Yes, Lockheed is a double anchor design; while Bendix is a single anchor, self-energizing design.

If you look at the Lockheed brake the front shoe pushes into it's anchor and does the most of the work when stopping; thus the larger piston and longer lining.

With the Bendix brake the leading shoe drives into the trailing shoe which pushes into the anchor; the trailing shoe does more of the work so the lining is longer.

[JSeery]

Originally Posted by earlyride

Normally the longer shoe goes to the rear, are the lockheed brakes different than, lets say bendix or any other shoe brand? Just asking

What Rich posted. This throws a lot of people that are not familiar with the lockheed brakes.

[mike42]

Russ and Seery thx. Installing the shoes today.

Mike

[mike42]

I forgot to tell you guys something......when drums were turned I asked about new bearings and seals. They recommended I replace them and I did so. Funny thing is....the Bearing Race made in China.....Bearing made in Japan......Seal made in USA ! Then to top it all off.....the small 3” link that goes between the lower adjustment bolts came in plastic bags with Bob Drake printed on them. The links were “USED” !!!! Not even cleaned up to at least look presentable ! Could not believe it, but thats the World we live-in !

Mike