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#1 |
Junior Member
Join Date: Sep 2015
Location: Manzanita ,OR
Posts: 12
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Saw this at an Antique Tractor show.
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#2 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Redding Cal
Posts: 1,388
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Very cool. I have seen a few of those set ups over the years. There was an article in SOSS years ago about building them
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#3 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2015
Location: Bay City Michigan
Posts: 1,050
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i would geuss welded with fire and brass. unless someone knows what the proper way to weld cast is?
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#4 | |
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Join Date: May 2010
Location: Windy City
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When I was in high school I took welding shop and first learned to weld broken C.I. lathe beds and legs with a 1/4"x1/4" square cast gray iron filler rod, borax (flux) and an acetylene torch. Since then I've encountered quite a few other methods... I'm sure others could post their absolute surefire no-crack methods! |
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#5 | |
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Join Date: May 2010
Location: South California
Posts: 6,188
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Like Mike says...like opening up a can of worms...as to answer in detail. Take cast iron to a professional cast iron welding company to have welded/repaired properly and they will have an oven to start with...then eventually add cast iron to repair. Last edited by hardtimes; 04-27-2017 at 01:00 PM. Reason: .......... |
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#6 |
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Join Date: May 2010
Location: Mpls, MN
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#7 | |
Senior Member
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"RCI is a high-quality gray iron oxyacetylene welding rod, designed for gas welding of cast iron, general fabrication or building up new or worn surfaces on castings." http://www.weldingwire.com/products/...-Cast-Iron/RCI
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#8 |
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Join Date: May 2010
Location: VA
Posts: 1,446
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I took a night school welding class, jeez, 40 years ago, and the teacher said Machinable nickel rod was for arc welding cast iron. He had a mobile welding business, so he wasn't a "theorist". I used it to build up a piece of broken off table on a little vise.
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#9 |
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Join Date: May 2010
Location: La Mesa Ca
Posts: 1,173
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I've run that setup for many years using the Secrets of Speed article & it does great, about the same milage but about 25% increase in performance. I originally welded the second mount on but it kept cracking so the last time I braised it and have had no further problems.
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#10 |
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Join Date: Nov 2016
Location: SoCal
Posts: 877
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I've used nirod before.
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#11 |
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Join Date: Jun 2014
Location: Melbourne, Australia
Posts: 7,564
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Never tried it but I was once told an arc welder would do the trick with ordinary mild steel jobber electrodes with a copper wire wrapped around them. Must give it a try one day!
BTW, I contemplated using 2 updraughts but there is no room if you want to steer a RHD car. ![]()
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#12 |
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Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Cow Hampshire
Posts: 4,188
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One of the advantages of working in a nuclear power plant is one comes across ALL sorts of unusual repair methodologies.
Like Eutectic Weld Electrodes for cast iron. https://www.castolin.com/en-US/produ...ode-xuper-2240 Only $125 a pound 20 years ago. But comes with nuclear certification! I found a way to get 5 lbs past the metal detectors at the gate. They do recommend "hammer peining" of the partially completed weld. Joe K
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#13 |
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Join Date: May 2010
Location: Brookfield, NH
Posts: 102
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Do the carbs need the main jets changed?
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#14 |
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Join Date: May 2010
Location: Windy City
Posts: 2,919
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And the Can of Worms has been opened!
(What a way to hijack a thread, I plead guilty!) So far we have:
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#15 |
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Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Cow Hampshire
Posts: 4,188
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Don't forget that some use a standard MIG to weld cast iron. I think they use the regular steel wire. My mild steel spool says AWS A5.18 ER70S-6.
And they do it WITHOUT pre-heating the casting? Mebbe not. http://www.mig-welding.co.uk/cast-iron.htm I can't think of WHY this should work - but some say it works for them? Joe K
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#16 | |
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2016
Location: SoCal
Posts: 877
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Brazing rod using gas, cast iron rod, any of what is available out there that claims to work with cast iron the cast being welded needs to be preheated. Temperature sticks that are like a crayon in different temperature ranges can be bought at most well stocked welding supply stores. Also the piece being welded needs to cool slowly. I have welded a lot in the past on heavy equipment so to speak in the field. Everybody has their own method and whatever works for them, fine. Read books on the subject and get hands on experience from somebody that is willing to show you their methods. Eutectic is a brand name and they have several alloys for welding various types of metal. Back to the main subject on the dual carbs. I've seen modifications like the OP has shown. Depending on application I wouldn't expect to get a better mpg compared to a stock setup and there is a lot more involved in tuning, matching or getting a balance of intake and exhaust. To me a progressive linkage downdraft would work much better. |
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#17 | |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Cow Hampshire
Posts: 4,188
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Joe K
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#18 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2016
Location: SoCal
Posts: 877
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That's good to know about machining. I usually only had to clean up with a grinder from memory.
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#19 | |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: South California
Posts: 6,188
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x2 on your carb conclusions ! Regarding the cast iron welding. From speaking with well known/recommended companies and from reading, I've been informed that if you 'repair' anything cast iron, with anything other than cast iron...they will not be able to repair that part...without having to cut out all of the non cast iron and then use cast iron repairs(expensive done right). Then maybe not repairable and then very expensive. They will not take on any work where previous repairs are done this way, i.e.- nirod,etc) So, if a guy has RARE/expensive item...say antique head / block with nirod etc., that needs more fixing...good luck ? |
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#20 | |
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Join Date: Nov 2016
Location: SoCal
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