2-row radiator advice needed

[mcorrell]

I've discovered my car has an older (late 1970's?) 2-row radiator. The car still suffers from overheating on long grades on warmer days (over 85 deg). Most of the time it is fine but we do have a lot of long grades here in western NC.
Since the radiator doesn't leak and has a 30 degree temperature difference form top to bottom (no load) I hate to replace it. There's plenty of other needs were $600 would come in handy.
Is there anything I can do to improve the cooling capacity w/o replacing the radiator? I've already installed a new WP and cleaned and flushed the entire cooling system with vinegar.
Oh, yeah...I've learned how to adjust the GAV and timing while driving which was a big help

[TinCup]

Wow where to start. If you search the barn you will find the threads where I chased this demon for months. I too had a two row radiator that was in great shape. Flowed well and was rust free. All that was not enough when the outside temps got above 85 degrees here in OK. I did everything I could to try to improve cooling but in the end a new radiator from Bergs is what did the trick. A two core radiator does not have adequate cooling capacity.

[mcorrell]

I was afraid of that. I may just have to avoid hot days and/or long grades and take plenty of coolant for topping it off. At least this is something I can control to some extent. I still have to rebuild the steering and other safety related issues before I can spring for a new radiator. I was hoping that maybe a shroud or Water Wetter would help as a bandaid. I am surprised to see some suppliers selling 2-row radiators today for over $550 when 3-row radiators are available for about the same price.

[Big hammer]

Check out thread " Water Temp" might help you :-)

[CWPASADENA]

Water Wetter and a fan shroud will both help a little. Also removing or relocating the front license plate so it is not blocking the radiator will help a little. All these things may help enough so you can get up most hills without overheating.

If you do get to a hill you can not handle in third gear without overheating, just slow down and down shift into second and run along at a reduced speed but keep the engine speed up to where it is when normally just driving along. This will keep the water pump and fan turning normally to keep good flow of water and air thru the radiator.

This may suffice until you can invest in a new radiator or re-core the one you have.

That is my suggestion.

Chris W.

[Tom Wesenberg]

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Install a hot water heater. It will act as a small additional radiator.

[garyaodell]

Remove the front License Plate, it is covering up about 20% of the radiator. If this doesn't help, put it back

[Mitch//pa]

buy a radiator so you dont slowly kill your motor or just park it till your ready

[mcorrell]

Thanks. I've removed the front license plate and cleaned the radiator fins. I am thinking of getting a shroud. I am running a OE style steel fan which I hear is best. I've thought about running an extra radiator or heater but at that point I will have spent half the cost of a new radiator.
The short steep grades are no problem as I can shift down safely. It is the long 2-3% grades, some several miles long that are trouble. For now I'll avoid afternoon drives and keep an eye on the multimeter.

[bambooboy]

you said you flushed with vinegar,i'm doing the same. flushed with prestone flush twice(had it in garage)now on third flush with 2 gal vinegar.each time flushed after with clean water&baking soda till I got clean water in drain bucket. still overheated.after each flush with vinegar I got a bucket full of rusty water.$2.50 a gal for vinegar,i'm going to keep it going till vinegar mix comes out clear.each cleanse it runs a little cooler.half hour at low idle in 90 degrees, I'm at 205 or there abouts.if you have the time like me a lot better than 5 hundred or better.no rad shops in my area anymore. tom

[Tom Wesenberg]

My 1929 Tudor had a two row radiator when I bought the car, and it lost one to two quarts of coolant every 10 miles at 45 MPH. It was a cheap repro radiator and just didn't have the flow capacity needed for the Model A.

[mcorrell]

Tom, your experience is mirroring my problem, although the long grades seem to be more of a problem than the speed. I now travel with a gallon of water with me just in case. I'm just trying to get by until more money is available in 2016.

[1955cj5]

Just out of curiosity does your two-row have flat tubes that are about 5/8" deep, and maybe 1/8" wide?

I have a two row but really don't drive far enough at a time to experience any overheating...my evening drives are usually no more than 20 miles or so...

I plan to upgrade or re-core but probably not till spring....

Does it look like this...?

Randy

[WestCoast]

maybe im being to simple, but cant you just install a fan with more blades? more air moving thru the rad should make it run cooler, Sacramento Vintage Ford in calif has 4 and 6 bladed fans for the Model A engine

[1931 flamingo]

WestCoast: Studies have been done that show the 2 blade (orig style) is best. FWIW

Paul in CT

[Mitch//pa]

Originally Posted by 1931 flamingo

WestCoast: Studies have been done that show the 2 blade (orig style) is best. FWIW

Paul in CT

Yep what Paul said

[BILL WILLIAMSON]

But, WHO did the "STUDIES"??---Fans are mostly for sittin' @ an idle anyhow------------Unlike an AEROPLANE!!
Bill W.

[Brentwood Bob]

Is you timing okay? Have you back flushed the motor and separately backflushed the radiator?Bob

[mcorrell]

1955cj5: my radiator looks a lot like yours. It has 10 fins per inch.
Yes, I've back flushed the engine and radiator separately. Timing is OK.overheating only occurs on long grades and above 85 degrees. Back on flat Ohio roads it was not a problem. With a 2 row core the coolant capacity is considerably less.

[Tom Wesenberg]

A high compression head makes the engine run more efficient, so it should also run slightly cooler and give you the added power for hills. I think it's the best bang for the buck to add horsepower.