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#1 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Posts: 2,871
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I plan to do a little cleanup in the exhaust ports on the 59L I am building. What is recommend as a source for the exhaust port dividers. Someone suggested Speedway, but I believe a lot of their stuff is imported today. Rather find an NOS, NORS USA source. Thank you.
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#2 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Coral Springs FL
Posts: 11,604
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You might want to reconsider installing exhaust port dividers as they may make very little difference in engine performance and are more trouble than it's worth.. Here's some good reading.
http://www.midstateantiquestockcarcl...at_heads9.html |
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#3 | |
BANNED
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Wa.
Posts: 5,423
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No, you do not need them in a street engine but they help if you are willing to do it right and make your own. Yes, they definetely help in a race engine. |
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#4 | |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Coral Springs FL
Posts: 11,604
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I did find this additional info. on Fordbarn search. http://fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=127590 HAMB had this: http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/t...to-use.770337/ Last edited by 19Fordy; 08-18-2015 at 08:52 PM. |
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#5 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Chester Vt
Posts: 8,985
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The reason for the dividers is to prevent the output of one cylinder form contaminating the input charge of the adjoining cylinder while the exhaust valve is still open. Thus, this is very dependent on the exhaust valve timing and only helps when a very long duration cam is used and then only at WOT.
Now installed correctly they probably won't cause any trouble. However if they come loose, you'll have to tare down the engine to fix it. Good luck. |
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#6 |
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Join Date: May 2010
Location: Wa.
Posts: 5,423
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The ones that work are home made. There are several ways to hold them in efficiently. Whatever works for you is the way to do it. They should be no more than an 1/8 inch thick. I make mine from Inconel. They run cherry red because there is no water around them like the port walls. I have seen 5 hp gain at 6000 rpm with them. I have never noticed any change in exhaust sound with or without. |
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#7 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: SF Bay Area
Posts: 7,285
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pete, have you ever done the heat riser manifold described, or heard of it's relative value?
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Alan |
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#8 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Reno Nevada
Posts: 433
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I installed a set in my motor 25years ago. Have not had any issues. Was told that they will help to improve exhaust scavenging. Not sure if they really helped or was a waste of time but wanted to build this motor correctly the first time.
Vic |
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#9 |
Member Emeritus
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Fitzgerald, Georgia
Posts: 2,204
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I included several pictures and a description of proper installation and retaining methods in my book "Flathead Facts".
I also covered the subject of how much, little, or non-factor importance to assign to this subject. |
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#10 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Napier, New Zealand
Posts: 2,001
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Which every person with a flathead V8 need to read.
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#11 |
BANNED
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Wa.
Posts: 5,423
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#12 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Posts: 2,871
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Have JWLs book, will check it out. Thank you.
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#13 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Powell, TN
Posts: 2,617
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I have successfully ran them and presently have a set in a 60 over four inch engine. IMHO it is important to grind/fit them so that they fit square on the port bottom with a countersunk hole on the top. I run a allen scred down in the stud hole and then jam the stud on top of the allen screw. I have a set of speedway dividers on the shef that appear to be well made of bronze. They have made my engines run cooler and caused no problems.
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#14 |
Member
Join Date: Jan 2011
Posts: 67
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Just my 2 cents.
I have some, not going to use them. Joe Abbin is a local guy here and has written a few flathead books. According to him, the improvement is minimal at best, not worth the effort. As per his guidance, They are in the bottom of the spare parts box, will probably get thrown out. |
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