Gasket blowout - pics

[burner31]

Blew out my exhaust manifold gasket, I'm thinking I may have over torqued the bolts...your thoughts on this.

I had 180 miles on those old gaskets.
I didn't use a torque wrench when I first put it together (still can't find it), but my wrists have been calibrated to within +/- 5 lbs...or so I thought.

I know, I know...I'm going to buy a new one this week.

And don't let the Chevy fender cover get to you, I use it on my '57.

[Y-Blockhead]

Holy cow , think your running rich enough?

Looks like you had a leak were the manifold joins the muffler (head pipe?) also.

[1crosscut]

I would hazard a guess that perhaps you didn't torque them enough or your mating surfaces are not flat.

[burner31]

Originally Posted by Y-Blockhead

Holy cow , think your running rich enough?

Looks like you had a leak were the manifold joins the muffler (head pipe?) also.

Yeah, have some carb issues, see my other post "oven trick"

[WestCoast]

it looks like you manifold is warped, center is holding the gasket while the ends are letting the exhaust gases blow out the ends, take the exhaust and check it for flatness, if its warped as it looks that way do any thing you can to correct that problem, also install the exhaust glands that fit in the exhaust ports in the block, they will remedy the gasket blow outs

[burner31]

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Originally Posted by WestCoast

it looks like you manifold is warped, center is holding the gasket while the ends are letting the exhaust gases blow out the ends, take the exhaust and check it for flatness, if its warped as it looks that way do any thing you can to correct that problem, also install the exhaust glands that fit in the exhaust ports in the block, they will remedy the gasket blow outs

I'll check the manifold in the morning, if it's warped I can take it and have it milled flat.

[Mike V. Florida]

Originally Posted by burner31

I'll check the manifold in the morning, if it's warped I can take it and have it milled flat.

Before you spend money on having it milled be sure to check that the there is no droop at the back and all the holes line up. If they do also bring the intake and have the whole assembly, intake and exhaust, milled together.

[J Franklin]

I'm with 1crosscut on this. intake as well as exhaust need to be the same height also.

[WestCoast]

don't forget the ring glands for the exhaust ports

[Tudortomnz]

All original manifolds are warped to some degree by now.
A good thick gasket with gasket cement should seal it. I do not use the type you show, not enough gasket area & they leak easy. Get the other type with larger area.
Do not use gland rings on the exhaust ports ; probably will never line up. Ford stopped using them fairly early during production when they changed the gasket design.
Make sure you have the washers on the studs mounted correct way up [ inverted] so they get enough pressure when you bolt them down. I just go as tight as possible , like wheel nuts.
When your engine has warmed up, do not run /drive it with the GAV more than about a quarter turn open ; it will probably go fine on less when cruising along.

[Mike V. Florida]

Originally Posted by Tudortomnz

Do not use gland rings on the exhaust ports ; probably will never line up. Ford stopped using them fairly early during production when they changed the gasket design.

In March of 1929 they counterbored the exhaust ports in the block until the end of production. Was this not for gland rings?

[Tudortomnz]

Mike you are sharp, but I am going by Canadian Service Bulletins, March '29...."New Manifold Gasket''. ....''The new gasket obsoletes the old style gaskets & glands as NO glands are used with the new design, the gasket being held in place when assembling by means of studs in block side.
This change will eliminate the counterbore for glands in both the manifolds & cylinder block. The new gasket can be used on both old & new jobs.''
Tom.

[Bob C]

Originally Posted by Tudortomnz

Mike you are sharp, but I am going by Canadian Service Bulletins, March '29...."New Manifold Gasket''. ....''The new gasket obsoletes the old style gaskets & glands as NO glands are used with the new design, the gasket being held in place when assembling by means of studs in block side.
This change will eliminate the counterbore for glands in both the manifolds & cylinder block. The new gasket can be used on both old & new jobs.''
Tom.

Says the same thing in the Jan 1929 US Service Bulletins pg 312.

Bob

[Bob Bidonde]

I do not see any evidence that there were gland rings in those burnt exhaust ports. Missing gland rings are a sure cause of the burnouts you have.

The washers used to mount the manifolds are actually springs to compensate for thermal expansion movement of the parts in the joints. The washers are cup shaped and were originally made from scrap leaf spring stock. If you over tighten the nuts and flatten the washers, thermal stresses will skyrocket and warpage leading to cracks is inevitable.

Copper gaskets have poor resistance to burnout. Steel is a much better gasket material, and the glands in the exhaust ports are a must have. Be sure to fit the glands with an 0.06" gap or they will warp and wind up in the muffler.

[burner31]

Originally Posted by Bob Bidonde

I do not see any evidence that there were gland rings in those burnt exhaust ports. Missing gland rings are a sure cause of the burnouts you have.

The washers used to mount the manifolds are actually springs to compensate for thermal expansion movement of the parts in the joints. The washers are cup shaped and were originally made from scrap leaf spring stock. If you over tighten the nuts and flatten the washers, thermal stresses will skyrocket and warpage leading to cracks is inevitable.

Copper gaskets have poor resistance to burnout. Steel is a much better gasket material, and the glands in the exhaust ports are a must have. Be sure to fit the glands with an 0.06" gap or they will warp and wind up in the muffler.

They were there...but they fried.
Do glands go towards the block or the manifold?
From what I'm reading, do not use glands and go with steel, is this correct?
What would be the best gasket to go with? And if a gland is used which way do they go?
I'm getting the sleeve for the manifold/tailpipe, new washers for the manifold, new pipe clamp and bolts, just need which gasket to go with.
Thank you all for your input.

[burner31]

Just checked the manifold for warpage, none, it's smooth, flat and true, lines up perfect between the intake and exhaust when they are bolted together, so my problem must be the gasket/washers/torque.
The carb problem should be fixed now (running rich) but wont know that til I get her back together.

[TinCup]

Hey Keith Tuesday night is Monthly Meeting night for the Sooner Club. 7pm and it just so happens to be the annual Ice Cream Social. Come on by and share your problem with the support team.

[burner31]

Originally Posted by TinCup

Hey Keith Tuesday night is Monthly Meeting night for the Sooner Club. 7pm and it just so happens to be the annual Ice Cream Social. Come on by and share your problem with the support team.

I do want to join a club but I work swing shift and I live way out in Shawnee.
Little town of Johnson really (pop. 251), but Shawnee is the closest city.

[Mitch//pa]

i use gland rings whenever possible, copper gaskets, new studs, new washers and brass nuts...
leave the 2 bolts loose that hold the maniflods together then tightem those last...

[burner31]

Originally Posted by Mitch//pa

i use gland rings whenever possible, copper gaskets, new studs, new washers and brass nuts...
leave the 2 bolts loose that hold the maniflods together then tightem those last...

Roger that on the two bolts Mitch.
Thank you for that tip.
I would have bolted it up all together otherwise.