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Thread Tools | Display Modes |
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#1 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: Warrnambool, Victoria, Australia
Posts: 800
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I've been trying unsuccessfully to remove my fan so that I can replace it with the new 2-blade aluminium one that I bought. I tried reversing the castellated nut and striking it several times, but only succeeded in splitting the nut!
![]() Have since found a thread here full of similar experiences and it seems that the solution is to buy the tool, which is what I'm now going to do. However, I am concerned that the thread on my water pump shaft needs cleaning up before I put the new castellated nut on (. . . assuming I get the old fan off!! ![]() I don't have a tap and die set, so I'll need to borrow one or find someone to do this, but is there a description of the thread that will help me to locate and use the correct die? (e.g. pitch, spacing etc?). And if I get that, does the same description apply to all threads used on the car? My car consists of an AR phaeton body sitting on '28-'29 running gear. |
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#2 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Australa Melbourne
Posts: 878
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Hoogah the common threads on A models are UNC and UNF as well as other odd threads I use a thread file to clean water pump threads in fact my thread file is 1 of the most used tool in my tool kit
Colin |
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#3 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: Warrnambool, Victoria, Australia
Posts: 800
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Yeah, never had one but maybe now's the time! Thanks for this advice Colin.
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#4 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Mpls, MN
Posts: 27,582
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I bought the knocker tool from the parts suppliers for a few dollars. Hold the fan hub in my left hand and give the tool a good smack with a hammer, and the fan should pop loose. I've seen too many damaged threads when the right tool isn't used for the job.
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#5 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Rhode Island
Posts: 1,868
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Now is the time to replace your pump with a quality leakless if you don't already have one
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#6 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: on the Littlefield
Posts: 6,554
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#7 | ||||
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: Warrnambool, Victoria, Australia
Posts: 800
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AND... What range of TPI should I include in any file that I purchase? (These files appear to handle a range of TPI, but at about $45 ea, I don't want to have to buy another file down the track if I can get away with buying the right one now.) |
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#8 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Mpls, MN
Posts: 27,582
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I forgot to mention the other method I have used. You simply screw a nut half way onto the shaft, then screw a short bolt into the nut, and smack that bolt with a hammer. This way the force is against the shaft end, and not against the threads.
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#9 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Epping N.H.
Posts: 3,422
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An old head nut and stud makes a good knock-off tool.Screw the nut halfway onto the pump,screw the head stud in that,until it bottoms out hard,and belt it with a hammer while holding the pulley in your hand.The pump needs to be off to do this,if you try to do it with the pump still mounted you will just be pounding the head.The pump shaft will be acting like a punch on the wear pad on the inside of the head.
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#10 |
BANNED
Join Date: May 2012
Location: inside your RAM
Posts: 3,134
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thread files are double ended and should have the most common 8 pitches available: 4 per each end of the file
UNF (or SAE) (fine thread) in this case would be what you said at 7/16-20 with 20 TPI. I am sure the files out there would have this pitch. never hurts to own a set of taps/dies
__________________
'31 180A |
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#11 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Australa Melbourne
Posts: 878
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Any imperial (UNC/UNF) thread file will have the correct TPI
you will wonder how you lived without it |
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