Amazing Stuff!

[pgerhardt]

After reading a couple of threads which talked about Evapo-Rust, I decided to give it a try. I had a 20% off Harbor Freight coupon, so I picked up two gallons. I had disassembled a Model A Transmission way back in the 1970s and the gears and such, which sat in a box in my basement since then, were a rusty mess. I soaked half of them over night last night. (The other half and the case are soaking now.)

Besides soaking I used a brass brush (also picked up at Harbor Freight) to scrub off the black residue that forms as the rust is removed at about the 4 hour point, and buffed away the remaining black coating today. Here is the result! I am sold. Great Stuff!

[H. L. Chauvin]

Neat! Thanks for sharing such information.

[zzlegend]

I always have a couple of gallons around for the ready. That stuff is great.

[Mitch//pa]

and the cooling system version is just as good.
thanks for the report::

[TinCup]

I am also a big fan of this stuff. I have found it far superior to more corrosive products. I have yet to try their cooling system version.

[Synchro909]

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This sounds like good stuff but I've never heard of it (nor Harbor Freight) here in Australia. We probably have another product that does the same thing. What is the active ingredient? I'm tipping Phosphoric acid.

[waxhead]

It is also available in Australia. Here is their web-site. I have also used it, and it works well. The website explains how it works

http://www.evapo-rust.com.au/

[ursus]

Since Evapo-Rust is an aqueous solution there is always the risk of rust reforming afterwards due to the water entrained in porous items like iron casting. I usually shake, sponge, or blow off as much liquid as possible when done, then soak or flood the item with acetone. The acetone will help mobilize the remaining water to evaporate quickly, leaving a bone-dry casting that can straightaway be painted or treated with WD-40 to prevent rusting. This works really well with Zenith carburetors, with all their internal passageways.

[Synchro909]

Thanks Waxhead, I'll track it down.

[pgerhardt]

Here is the rest of the transmission. I blew off the parts and used WD-40 to prevent flash rusting. Seemed to work out OK.

BTW the gears have no chips or broken teeth, but show some "rounding over" where they meet when meshing. Is this just normal wear or should I be looking for new gears?

[Tom Wesenberg]

Originally Posted by pgerhardt

Here is the rest of the transmission. I blew off the parts and used WD-40 to prevent flash rusting. Seemed to work out OK.

BTW the gears have no chips or broken teeth, but show some "rounding over" where they meet when meshing. Is this just normal wear or should I be looking for new gears?

The teeth are made with a pointed edge (rounded over) to make them engage each other easier.

[pgerhardt]

I found an old box of distributor parts which are perfect for another test. Here is a "before" picture.

BTW it looks like I have at least three different types of distributor shafts: two pieces with a ridge at the top; one piece with the ridge; and one piece without the ridge. So here is the model A knowledge challenge: Put these in chronological order!

I have now added the "after" picture.

[hardtimes]

Originally Posted by pgerhardt

I found an old box of distributor parts which are perfect for another test. Here is a "before" picture.

BTW it looks like I have at least three different types of distributor shafts: two pieces with a ridge at the top; one piece with the ridge; and one piece without the ridge. So here is the model A knowledge challenge: Put these in chronological order!

The one pictured at the top, is the stock two piece that should be used, IMO. The second two, which I also have, are after market one piece and do not provide the 'give' that is needed. There are also OHV one piece shafts which are one piece and out of necessity are of long length.

And, yes evaporust can/is used in any metal rust situation...including gas tanks. Usually, IME, evaporust does a better/best job ....the longer it is allowed to contact the rusty stuff/parts. There is a thread over on the early V side where a 'test' is done...rather scientifically and same results that I have with this stuff.
I recently plugged up a V12 block water jacket openings (after getting all rust out that I could on an engine 'rotisserie' . Poured in evaporust and left for week/two....Emptied out evaporust into containers to use again. Block was amazingly clean and what remained was 'converted' to black oxide/whatever. Very good stuff, and safe it get on hands and environmentally safe to water plants with...if you care,eh