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#1 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Riverside, CA
Posts: 315
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I know I've seen a threat on this somewhere, but I can't find it. How should I attach the hoist to the engine when pulling it? Andrews suggests a couple of those specially threaded bolts that go into the spark plug holes and then a piece of angle iron. I like that, but the bolts cost $31 each at Snyders and would require two. One single ring fitted to screw into the spark plug is $11 each. Sounds good, as long as one is strong enough.
Anyway, what do you do?
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#2 |
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Join Date: May 2010
Location: Denville NJ
Posts: 964
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one eyebolt is enough, if the trans is attached then use the # 3 hole, if not then the # 2 hole will work.
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Model A Ford Club of New Jersey http://www.mafcnj.org Model A Pick Up Owners and Enthusiasts https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/group.php?groupid=5 Last edited by Ed Saniewski; 06-07-2014 at 06:31 PM. |
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#3 |
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Join Date: May 2010
Location: Clinton,WA/Whidbey Island
Posts: 4,186
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Also can use some 2" Nylon straps wraped around engine. Front and rear.
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#4 |
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Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: N Illinois
Posts: 447
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I gave up on trying to lift engines with bolts and screws and plates and such a long time ago.
I invested in a pair of 2000 lb Web sling that fit anything I want to lift. (About $50) Engine-Under pulley and under rear main or pan. With tranny-under pull and tranny. Also works with lifting bodies and chassis. |
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#5 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Denville NJ
Posts: 964
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Just watch the front pulley doesn't get banged up. You might want to take it off before you start.
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#6 |
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Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Columbia, TN.38401
Posts: 422
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#7 |
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Join Date: May 2010
Location: Bucks County, PA
Posts: 11,454
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#8 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: Northern Bucks Co. Pa
Posts: 632
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#9 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Windy City
Posts: 2,919
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If you want something to screw into plug holes, buy two of the cheap (~$3) Motorcraft TT10 spark plugs and knock out the porcelain. Put 3/8 grade 5 bolts through them as attachment points. Minimum tensile on ONE 3/8 grade 5 bolt (USA, not Chinese!!) exceeds 5000 lbs.
I always use a screw-crank tilt device to make it safe and easy to get the engine pan over the front member (engine tilted up) and then tilted back to get the exact mating level for the clutch cover casting and front mount. It all then goes in with a wiggle. In this pix I am using the plug hole studs that came with a head puller. ![]() |
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#10 |
Member
Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: Near Olympia WA
Posts: 33
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Mike K
I always have a hard time knocking out the porcelain on plugs. Do you have some special technique? Thanks |
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#11 |
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Join Date: May 2010
Location: Windy City
Posts: 2,919
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Screw it in an old head to hold it. Break off what you can, both ends. Then a couple good whacks each way with a 1/4" drift punch and 2lb hammer on the remaining porcelain stub does the trick.
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#12 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Riverside, CA
Posts: 315
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Cool, Gentlemen, just what I needed.
I just went out and wrapped a tow strap around the front pulley and rear flange on the new engine to test it. Very easy, plenty strong. Can't tilt it very easily, but we'll see how it goes this week when I pull the old engine out. Thanks
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#13 |
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Join Date: May 2012
Location: inside your RAM
Posts: 3,134
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chain sling from water inlet bolt to manifold bolt works, too. Although I usually lift from #3 or #2 plug hole as already mentioned. This is how the old timers did it all the time
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'31 180A |
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#14 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Savannah, GA
Posts: 1,300
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"In Soviet Russia, engine block lifts you."
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20 years ago we had Johnny Cash, Steve Jobs, and Bob Hope. Now we have no Cash, no Jobs, and no Hope...please don't let Kevin Bacon die! |
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#15 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Anchorage, Alaska
Posts: 9,125
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I use one of Bill Stipe's creations available at most vendors:
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#16 |
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90+ dollars is a little much for using it twice (out and in).
How about 10.00 each. ![]()
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#17 | |
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Anchorage, Alaska
Posts: 9,125
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![]() Quote:
Using it to remove the engine was just a freebee, using a tool I already had.
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Alaskan A's Antique Auto Mushers of Alaska Model A Ford Club of America Model A Restorers Club Antique Automobile Club of America Mullins Owner's Club |
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#18 |
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Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Orange, CA
Posts: 43
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Mike V. Florida,
Where did you pick those up for $10? I recently pulled the engine out of my '28 roadster and had the same issues that Brobrian had. I ended up throwing money at the issue using some clevis' bolts attached to the head studs. Not a good way to go about it but the engine did come out. It needs to go back in eventually and I'd like to use the bolts and sparkplug adapters you show in the pics!
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#19 |
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Join Date: May 2010
Location: Lakeville, MN
Posts: 5,187
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I did what Gunmetal Blue2 did, except I used 2 take apart junk sparkplugs and removed everything except the screw in the head part. I then used two 3/8" carriage bolts that I inserted it from the bottom and then used a short chain and a washer/nut attaching the chain to the carriage bolts. I screw in the sparkplug/carriage bolts into #1 and #4 locations. I have removed several engines with this setup and have had no problems.
Rusty Nelson |
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#20 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Mpls, MN
Posts: 27,582
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I've used 3 different ways to lift the engine. The equalizer that Mike showed is tops, but using 2 spark plug hole adaptors or using nylon braided rope both work great also. I've also used seat belts to sling the engine.
If you sling the engine side to side, instead of front to rear, it will be much easier to tilt it during installation. |
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