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#1 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Cape Cod
Posts: 1,128
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Group,
A chunk came off my fan belt and I'm trying to replace it. I'm having a lot of trouble getting the belt around the engine pulley. The car has a 6 Volt Alternator and came with a belt # 42-6324. I do not know the brand. The only way that I could remove the belt from the engine pulley was to put the part with the "chunk" removed around the engine pulley. That gave me enough clearance to remove the belt. Is there a "skinny" belt that I should use ? The old one fit the pulleys nice and worked fine. There seems to be little clearance under the engine pulley for a belt ? Marc |
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#2 |
Senior Member
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Sounds like engine mount problem. Does the crank block line up with the crank nut allowing the use of the hand crank to spin the engine?
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#3 |
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Join Date: May 2010
Posts: 295
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I purchased a belt that was 1 inch longer and it fits like a glove. I do not have the belt stock number since it was several years ago. Try it. Luck.
Bill Lee/Virginia Peninsula |
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#4 |
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Location: Windy City
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#5 |
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Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Anchorage, Alaska
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If the belt won't go around the crank pulley, jack the engine up slightly and it will slip right in. Just be sure to put a block of wood between the pan and your jack.
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#6 |
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#7 |
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Location: United Kingdom
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spot on Carl
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#8 |
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Join Date: May 2010
Location: Stayton, Oregon
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The above comments sounds like what I have to do also to replace my huckster belt. You may want to put something under your front motor mount to get it to sit a little higher so if you break down on the road sometime, you could replace it a little easer. Just make sure your crank will fit in pulley.
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Fred Kroon 1929 Std Coupe 1929 Huckster |
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#9 |
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Location: Cape Cod
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Folks,
Thanks for the comments. Currently, the crank fits very well into the engine pulley. If I raise the motor slightly, do I need to do anything with the front bolt setting ? Marc |
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#10 |
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Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Anchorage, Alaska
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There is usually enough spring action there to lift it up the 1/8 or so needed to clear the belt.
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Alaskan A's Antique Auto Mushers of Alaska Model A Ford Club of America Model A Restorers Club Antique Automobile Club of America Mullins Owner's Club |
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#11 |
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Join Date: May 2012
Location: Mo. City , Texas
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Depending on how close it is to going around the pulley . Mine was close so I stretched the belt using my floor jack. If it is close to going on you might want to give this a try before doing any thing else.
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#12 |
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Join Date: May 2010
Location: Stayton, Oregon
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Do you maybe have some old dirt or something on your front cross member under the pulley that you could clean off also and get more clearance?
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Fred Kroon 1929 Std Coupe 1929 Huckster |
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#13 |
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Join Date: May 2010
Location: Bucks County, PA
Posts: 11,454
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if the front castellation
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#14 |
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#15 |
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#16 |
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Join Date: May 2010
Location: Alabama
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I agree with Mitch!!! I only tighten the castellated nut enough to just get the cotter pin through the hole. If the nut is tightened more it will also cause vibration.
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#17 |
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Join Date: May 2010
Location: Northport, NY
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If its CLOSE, then make a garrot from a string with a couple of loops (Bowline knots) on each end, put it through the belt and pull it to length to go over the alternator's pulley.
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#18 |
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Join Date: May 2010
Location: Cape Cod
Posts: 1,128
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With regard to lifting the motor with a floor jack/wood on the oil pan...
Can the pan support the motor without crumbling ? Marc |
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#19 |
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Join Date: May 2010
Location: Alabama
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Yes, you won't have to jack it up that much. I would also loosen the rear motor mount bolts to the engine, This will take strain off the flywheel housing.
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#20 |
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Join Date: May 2010
Location: santa cruz, calif
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