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#1 |
Member
Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: Lakeland Florida
Posts: 68
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What is a "hot air pipe", where and what is it supposed to do? Mentioned in a post regarding "rough running".
Noticed no one uses a dwell meter or mentions vacuum gage. Why? Is there a vacuum port someplace? Is it a hole or just depression that the timing pin drops into for static timing? Does the pin ID match the hole/depression closely or with some slop? Don't understand what putting a point on pin helps? I bought the Les andrews books but haven't digested much yet. Kind of going with failing memory <G>. |
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#2 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Clinton,WA/Whidbey Island
Posts: 4,457
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visit www.modelabasics.com A great site may have some basic info for you.
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www.whidbeymodelaclub.com |
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#3 | |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: At my kitchen table in Santa Rosa, Ca
Posts: 2,976
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I though that is what this place is for.
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If it would have been a snake it would have bit ya! i can't spell my way out of a paper bag! |
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#4 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Clinton,WA/Whidbey Island
Posts: 4,457
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It is!
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www.whidbeymodelaclub.com |
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#5 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: oroville calif.
Posts: 1,453
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some times the dimple on the cam gear is not very deep or pronounced and is hard to feel with the timing, so it is filed to a point to help find the indentation on the cam gear, when ever i replace the cam gear i always use a drill to deepen the indentation on the gear to make it easier to find when timing the engine
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#6 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Mpls, MN
Posts: 27,582
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The cam gear has just a dimple, such as a drill bit would make about 1/8" deep, or a hair less. I've never had to put a point of the timing pin. I use a vacuum gauge when it's needed, if the manifold has a vacuum port. |
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#7 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Luck WI
Posts: 550
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There is a vacuum port on the intake, you could hook up a gauge, not sure what good it would do, but it is possible. The timing is very easy to set. You need to change the point cam position to time the engine, so the engine must be off, you can not just turn the distributor to adjust the timing like you can on latter years cars.
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Jon "If you choose to not decide, you still have made a choice!" RUSH Don't tell me what you know..... Tell me what you have done. |
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#8 | |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Southern California
Posts: 7,305
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Charlie Stephens |
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#9 |
Member
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Sunny Northern California
Posts: 59
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On a Model T, the hot air pipe surrounds part of the exhaust manifold, then goes into the throat of the carb.
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#10 |
Member
Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: Lakeland Florida
Posts: 68
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Merry Christmas.
Thanks for info. I am surfing the Red book right now and see I should look at it before going to the list. Sometime I get confused over what I think I remember from the day and what is applicable to my 30A <G>. Having so many problems/opportunities with the "A", the struggle is what is mandatory now vs able to put off a while. Since my wife won't give up her side of the garage, I just want to be able to go for ice cream,etc and maybe attempt an engine overall in a year or so. Currently I think the timing, plug gap, rotor gap, point gap is finally correct but unable to determine if that solves my radiator steaming problem since engine rough running. Don't know if I goofed up GAV or leaking exhaust manifold is the cause or a contributor. Sorry if long winded but I always felt better after seeing print <G>. About 15 years ago, built my experimental, homebuilt plane with much discussion among a similiar knowledgable group. Again, thanks. Dick |
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#11 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Rhode Island
Posts: 1,868
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Check out this site for timing
http://www.abarnyard.com/workshop/timing.htm |
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#12 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Rhode Island
Posts: 1,868
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Your problems require someone with Model A repair knowledge to physically visit your car. Your best bet would be to find the local Model A club in your area and attend one of their meetings. I'm sure you will find many people from the club willing to help you.
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#13 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Rhode Island
Posts: 1,868
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I would start by running a compression test on the engine first. If your compression is good then start looking at intake air leak, and ignition or carb problems
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#14 |
Member
Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: Lakeland Florida
Posts: 68
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Gave all my stuff to my son a few years ago but will go get it this weekend.
But heard someplace that my old Sears compression gage won't work as block plug hole diameter is too large & the scale too high. Maybe I could make some sort of rubber sleeve to slide over mine. Don't think I'm real concerned on exact accuracy but would like to see how cylinders compare. Probably a good thing to check before I replace that leaking exhaust manifold gasket.... |
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#15 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Fairfax, VA
Posts: 3,532
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A Stubby Phillips-head screw driver will do the job of the timing pin very nicely.
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#16 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Enterprise, WV.
Posts: 460
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I use my old sears compression gauge , I took an old plug and broke off the porcelain and welding on an adapter that my gauge would screw into , your scale shouldn't be to high . My 30 coupe with stock engine , except for being bored to 4 inch because # 4 cylinder had 2 grooves cut into it . my compression is 61 to64 pounds .
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