|
Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements) |
|
![]() |
![]() |
Thread Tools | Display Modes |
|
![]() |
#1 |
Member
Join Date: May 2010
Posts: 67
|
![]()
I am thinking of converting my '31 closed cab truck with a Riley ohv banger engine from foot starting to key starting using a selonoid. The truck is wired for 12 volts today. I have heard of this but am not sure how to wire it up and what part I may need to make it work. Might any one be able provide me some advice or recommendations? Thanks.
|
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#2 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Torrington, CT
Posts: 609
|
![]()
I am thinking of doing the same thing.
I was going to use a 37-48 starter solenoid and just wire it like a V8 using the old key and push bottom Start from the old V8 under the dash. |
![]() |
![]() |
Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements) |
|
![]() |
#3 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: on the Littlefield
Posts: 6,185
|
![]()
I have a starter on my Smiths compresser that was converted for "key" start by removing the original starter switch and soldering a short wire to the starter contact that has an eyelet terminal to a later solenoid -the solenoid was then screwed to the starter, the original battery wire would fit-the nice kind with a little button to operate it without power to make working under the hood easy ---or the threaded stud for a V8 starter could be installed
|
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#4 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Ft. Worth
Posts: 1,006
|
![]()
I'm pretty sure the parts suppliers sell a kit for this. not certain, but would look there first.
__________________
Cowtown A's |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#5 | |
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Anchorage, Alaska
Posts: 9,123
|
![]() Quote:
T51111 KIT $7.00 This is a universal kit that allows you to run a modern solenoid. There is a threaded stud (3/8" x 1-3/8") instead of the traditional flat contact button, which makes it easier to attach the battery cable. USA made. |
|
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#6 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Sugar Land, TX
Posts: 4,397
|
![]() Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements)
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#7 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Toronto, Ontario, Canada
Posts: 1,289
|
![]()
I took my starter to the local shop to get the post fixed for the solenoid setup and the guy wanted $100 to do that and change to 12 volt. A little pricey I thought, so I took a couple of his business cards and left. When I got home and thought about it, I took his business cards, folded them, and stuffed them under the spring on the contact, in the box on top of the starter. This provided the necessary electrical change for the starter. I used the $100 to purchase a barrel Bendix, and a few other things. Works like a charm, and if I ever want to go back, just remove the cards and its done!
|
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#8 | |
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Anchorage, Alaska
Posts: 9,123
|
![]() Quote:
Now, has anyone been able to come up with a key switch (with start) that will fit in the original dash panel? |
|
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#9 | |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: NC
Posts: 2,975
|
![]() Quote:
|
|
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#10 | |
Junior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Whitsett
Posts: 14
|
![]() Quote:
I have wired a few cars for customers who wanted to retain the starter button on the dash (later 30s Fords and a couple of 40 Fords). To do that I mounted a 12 v relay under the dash and used the dash button to fire the relay and ground the old style solenoid on the firewall. |
|
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#11 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Mpls, MN
Posts: 27,582
|
![]()
There are other options that might be easier. You could buy the accessory upstart that fastens to the steering column, or you could use the cable pull 1932 starter.
|
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#12 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Temecula, CA
Posts: 4,114
|
![]()
The 33-34 Model B starters were made for a remote switch, but they are hard to find. In the old days someone made a replacement switch that was for this, you see them sometimes at swap meets, if you know what to look for. I merely soldered a brass bolt onto the A "button" and it worked fine. The above solutions work too.
|
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#13 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Grass Valley,CA
Posts: 295
|
![]()
Be very careful of using a modern key start!!!! A friend used one and lost his car in the resulting FIRE !!After a short time the pressure against the tank and switch will puncture the boot and short out....If you must use a key start....mount the instrument panel to a spacer of your own design in order to creat a gap between switch boot and the gas tank.
Bruce Davis [email protected] |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#14 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: new britain,ct 06052
Posts: 9,395
|
![]()
To avoid what 400A-64 describes you could mount new sw assy to left of steering column on a home made brkt. JMO
Paul in CT |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#15 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Anchorage, Alaska
Posts: 9,123
|
![]()
With this much interest in a key start switch, I would think that someone would have found or produced a shallow enough switch that could be mounted in the panel. I know that NewRex makes one that has an ACC post on it that looks like a Pop Out, that is shallow enough, but I haven't seen anything with a "start" feature that fits the bill.
All the suggestions to mount it somewhere else would work, it's just not the effect I (and others) want. |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#16 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Fort Worth, Texas
Posts: 1,055
|
![]()
I understand the desire for a key start, but why not just buy one of the push button starters from the suppliers? it puts a solenoid on the original starter, and then you put the button up by the steering wheel somewhere. Its a very simple set up, and it takes away the foot starter.
__________________
Cowtown A's |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#17 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Eagle Bend, MN
Posts: 2,030
|
![]()
"I understand the desire for a key start, but why not just buy one of the push..." Why would you want a key start? I haven't found any reason to not think my foot started is perfectly "cool". As long as the ebrake works for hill starting, I can't think why you would want a keystart... what am I missing?
|
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#18 | |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Fort Worth, Texas
Posts: 1,055
|
![]() Quote:
__________________
Cowtown A's |
|
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#19 |
Member
Join Date: May 2010
Posts: 67
|
![]()
My reason for asking about converting to a key or push button starting rather than the stock foot starting on top of the starter is one thta comes from a bt of annoyance. I am having issues with my starter getting "stuck". What mean by stuck in the copper plate in the item on top of the starter gets "welded" to the copper button on the starter. I am getting good a taking the foot rod assembly off the top of the starter to undo the two pieces. In the past a notch has been takne out the button on the starter and I first tried filing it down to make the crevis shallower but it still likes to swallow or "weld" the copper plate to intothis crevis every once in a while when starting. I am now in the process of removing the starter to take it apart to replace the button with one that is perfectly flat with no crevis. As I was draining the water from the radiator to remove the side engine water neck to remove the starter, I had a thought about a selonoid driven starting process and wrote the question possing this thought to the board. I know I should just do it right and rebuild the starter the proper way, but too muc time in a cold garage gets a guy to thinking. I truly appreciate all the comments and discussion so far.
Dave |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#20 | |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: NC
Posts: 2,975
|
![]() Quote:
|
|
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
|
|
Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements) |
|