'40 coupe - installing the windshield

[fordman]

Do you have any suggestions for installing the windshield? The glass is from Sanders and the seal is from Drake.

thanks,

fordman

[Kube]

Originally Posted by fordman

Do you have any suggestions for installing the windshield? The glass is from Sanders and the seal is from Drake.

thanks,

fordman

This is an easy task. You must remove the interior garnish moldings and mirror.
The windshields are only set loosely in the car body. The inside moldings hold them in place.
That being understood, simply install the rubber around the glass. Then, there is a small groove (pocket) in the rubber that must go over the lip on the opening. Once you've done this, re-install the moldings.

[19Fordy]

Here's some info. Use dish soap as a lubricant. On the 40 Ford one side goes in first because of the overlap of the seal in the cinter dividing bar. If you lay the rubber on a flat surface and do a trial run to see how the glass fits you will see how it fits. I don't remember which side goes in first as I did mine 40 years ago. I also don't remember for sure whether I pulled the cord from the inside of the car or the outside. I think it was pulled from the outside.
http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/t...how-to.929811/

\https://www.earlyfordv8.org/forum/vi...m=16&Topic=638

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QvcJ_lU_VpQ

[V8COOPMAN]

Seems like I vaguely remember it being the PASSENGER side first. Surely Kube will jump back in. DD

[fordman]

thanks everybody!

fordman

[john worden]

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Originally Posted by V8COOPMAN

Seems like I vaguely remember it being the PASSENGER side first. Surely Kube will jump back in. DD

Doesn't matter which side is first as they are a mirror image of each other. Do it however it feels right. When doing this install for the first time I suggest an extra set of hands to help especially if the exterior and dash are finish painted. If pulling the cord outward be sure the pinch weld is smooth so that as the rubber slides over it there will be no scratching or tearing of the rubber. I have in the past applied one layer of black vinyl electrical tape over the pinch weld to ensure a damage free rubber seal and left it in place. Also all seals are not created equal. I order one from all suppliers, compare, trial fit if necessary and return the rest. That's the way it is these days with parts.

[19Fordy]

I used this sealer for both the glass groove and under the outside lip. Wipes away easily with gasolene or kerosene. Has not leaked in over 40 years. Some folks say you don't need any sealer. Whatever you do, DO NOT even think about using silicone seal or any type of caulking.

[fortyfords]

The overlap lip is pretty thick in the center so I threaded a piece of angle iron to match the center divider screw threads. I used longer screws so that I could draw the overlapping rubber together, this way I didn't put a strain on my stainless divider threads or strip the threads. I know guys who used longer screws and ended up putting a dimple in the stainless. I tightened the screws a little at a time.

[john worden]

Originally Posted by fortyfords

The overlap lip is pretty thick in the center so I threaded a piece of angle iron to match the center divider screw threads. I used longer screws so that I could draw the overlapping rubber together, this way I didn't put a strain on my stainless divider threads or strip the threads. I know guys who used longer screws and ended up putting a dimple in the stainless. I tightened the screws a little at a time.

Good way to do it.

[39topless]

Doing things yourself is cool but, you might consider taking the thing to a glass shop. They have the tools and expertise to do it right. No scratched paint, no torn rubber, etc. Cost would be about $100-$150. Or... forget the windshield all together and just wear goggles.

[okiedokie]

I have done the glass in two 40's [coupe and sedan] and my 53 F100. If I can, you can. Have fun.