Starter for Mult dik clutch flywheel, Sept28 floor boards & pedal pads

[Neil Mylar LakewoodCA]

I removed the starter from my Sept 28 Tudor.
If you remember, it had been modified to run off a electrical starter switch (see pic 7).

The car still has the multiple disk clutch, bell housing and trans.

I was hoping to find that the starter had the 1/2 inch shaft, but it does not.
It has the 5/8 inch shaft (see pic 5).

The bendix spring is held on with two bolts and washers (see pic 3). Neither bolts appear to be damaged.

There are some metal pieces at the bottom of the back face of the starter (see pic 2).

There is a metal gasket between the starter and the flywheel housing (see pic 6).

Questions:
1). Since the flywheel is for the multiple disk clutch and since the starter shaft is 5/8, I guess that means that the flywheel has been turned down, as Tom Wesenberg suggested? Could this have been done at the ford plant?
2). Could the metal pieces be the result of the fast turning 12V battery?
3). I have never seen a metal starter gasket before. Is it original? Could it be keeping the bendix bolt from hitting the flywheel?

Thanks in advance.
Neil

[Neil Mylar LakewoodCA]

pic 6 and 7

[Neil Mylar LakewoodCA]

original Sept 28 floor boards and pedal pad

[Tom Wesenberg]

The shim was only used with the original Abell drive. Using it with your starter will actually make the spring bolt head more likely to hit the flywheel. From what I can see of the flywheel it doesn't look cut down. The factory did start using a second style multiplate during the last third of 1928 for more clearance. It is shown in the SERVICE BULLETINS.

I'm really surprised the bolt head hasn't hit the flywheel.

[mlp623]

I have the same set-up. See below in the picture, the head of one of the bolts holding on the spring is cut off. I assume this is to adapt to the e28 flywheel.

[J Wade]

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I'm having my 28 engine with a multi disc clutch rebuilt and they are turning the flywheel down to make sure the 5/8 starter bolt doesn't hit. I talked to berts and they told me it wouldn't hit but I don't want to take a chance.

[Neil Mylar LakewoodCA]

Tom,
Is there a parts house that sell the special bolt for the 5/8 bendix?
Do they ever go for sale on ebay?
I have a 1928 5/8 inch 6V starter with a straight shaft starter switch. Could i just use the bendix off of my current starter which for some unknown reason doesnt hit the flywheel?
Thank you.
Neil

[mrtexas]

5/8 starter will hit flywheel if not turned down. I have personal experience with that!

[Neil Mylar LakewoodCA]

For some reason, the 5/8 inch starter with the electrical sylonoid is working in my car.
Maybe the flywheel has been cut down or it has the later multi flywheel.
Does anyone have a 1/2 inch starter for sale?

[Neil Mylar LakewoodCA]

Mr texas,
Did you hear the problem right aeay?
Did it hurt the starter?

[mrtexas]

Originally Posted by Neil Mylar LakewoodCA

Mr texas,
Did you hear the problem right aeay?
Did it hurt the starter?

Didn't hurt the starter but starter stuck to flywheel.

[Neil Mylar LakewoodCA]

What did you do to unstick it?

[Marco Tahtaras]

Neil, Looking at your fourth pic it appears you have the later type flywheel designed to accommodate the new starter. They went into full production October 5, 1928 but I suppose some may have been used randomly prior to that time. At least two of the photos below were courtesy of Dan Koppinger 2005.

Typical '28-29 flywheel w/headless bolt for clearance.


Same flywheel showing constant O.D.


Later flywheel with reduced diameter for new starter.


Your pic appears to show the same reduced diameter.

[Neil Mylar LakewoodCA]

Marco,
Thank you for the helpful pictures and the explanation.
That would definitely explain why the current bendix with the 2 bolts seemed to work ok.

There was a picture that i posted that showed some metal scraps on the back face of the starter.
Could those scraps been caused by the 12V battery turning the 6V starter too fast?
Thanks, Neil

[Tom Wesenberg]

Originally Posted by Neil Mylar LakewoodCA

Marco,
Thank you for the helpful pictures and the explanation.
That would definitely explain why the current bendix with the 2 bolts seemed to work ok.

There was a picture that i posted that showed some metal scraps on the back face of the starter.
Could those scraps been caused by the 12V battery turning the 6V starter too fast?
Thanks, Neil

I would think so. I did some testing using 12 volts on a 6 volt starter about 8 years ago. The 12 volt battery really slams the drive into action, and I didn't really like doing the tests, but wanted some data for the guys that like to use 12 volt batteries on 6 volt starters. Stick with a 6 volt ystem, they work just fine.

Now that I see your picture again, I do see a find line that may indicate the cutdown point. You can stick you finger through the starter hole and feel for the cutdown flywheel OD that Marco shows in his pictures.

[mrtexas]

Originally Posted by Neil Mylar LakewoodCA

What did you do to unstick it?

Couldn't unstick it. It stayed engaged as I drove down the road. Very funny sounds with that combination. I didn't drive it again until I got the correct 1/2 inch drive starter.

Here is my flywheel:


Flywheel is currently out of the car as I installed a conventional clutch. Multi-disc works well but parts are hard to find and I could get all the parts for the later transmission very cheaply. I've set the multi-disc aside for the new owner. I'll be selling my truck when it gets finished. After going thru the whole truck it is amazing how many parts are different. A shorter list would be what is the same as later models!

Here is a shot a few different parts, spindles, axle, brake lever. Just happened to be changing one of the spring perches today. Not pictured but just as different hub, drum, wheel, backing plate.