Shock Link Removal

[Binx]

So how are shock links removed? I can't recall seeing it anywhere in the archives. Are they tapered stud and need a puller or pickle fork? Thanks.

Lonnie

[Lawson Cox]

Place a BFH against one side of the taper, then hit the opposite side with another BFH, real sharply, and it should pop loose.

[JM 35 Sedan]

I do not use a puller and definitely not a pickle fork. I screwed up too many good links using those. What I do to get mine off is put the vehicle up on jack stands, remove tire & wheel, loosen the nut holding the link to the running gear/axle housing enough to give a gap of ~ 1/16"-1/8" from its full tightened position. Then using a one foot length of 1"-1-1/2" diameter aluminum bar stock and a 2-3# hammer, I give that nut a good wack to free the taper fit, then remove the nut and pull that end of the link out. Then I remove the shock with the arm and link as an assembly. Mount the arm in a vice close to the end with the link. Loosen that nut same as the other. Use the aluminum bar and hammer as before to wack that nut which loosens the taper fit. Remove the nut and link is off and undammaged.
I use the dog bone type links on my '35's, that are held together with two rivets. I repair these by removing rivets and putting new rubber balls in place, then put the bones back together with either rivets or nuts and bolts. This works well for me.

[ford38v8]

There is a KRW tool for the job, but it works only on the pre-1939 links, as the '39 and later links have shorter threaded sections to accommodate the fatter tires on the Mercury. Forget about looking up the part number, as there was no revision letter. You can actually forget about even reading all this, 'cause most links you'll find today are service replacements anyway.

[Henry Hopper]

I'd go with the advice of hitting the taper on the sides.....it seems to shock it free....I have had no luck hitting it downwards even with heat, it was always the raps with a hammer to the side that eventually worked for me.Ive just removed four leverarm shocks and all the rod ends on my car and heat and hammer was the only way they came out.

Id like to see the correct tool that was available back in the day for this operation if anyone has a pic .

[ford38v8]

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Henry, it might be in an early KRW Catalogue. My catalogue is the 1940 Edition, so it was obsolete by then. It was about 3" tall, open sided egg shape hollowed out, a screw jack through the top, bottom plate slotted to pass the shaft. Kinda like a miniature hub puller in principle. I know I have one somewhere in my stash, and I'd like to see it again myself!

[oldford2]

When all else failed I made this puller. Works good on the several I have pulled. I have a friend very handy with his welder.
John

[Henry Hopper]

I think I might have a go at making something like that....thanks.

[len47merc]

I just did this job two weeks ago on a '47 Merc with original shock links and used an OTC 7315A Universal Tie Rod End Remover. Stunningly easy to use and did not require hammers, punches, etc., nor did it require removing the shocks. Highly recommend - available on Amazon. I borrowed one from a local restoration shop on their recommendation and couldn't believe how much less work was involved than other methods. Popped all eight original tapers out easily after 67 years on this '47.

[Kube]

I too use a tie rod end removal tool. They fit in both the front and rear areas and pop the taper loose without any damage to the ball / socket.

[Graeme / New Zealand]

Originally Posted by Kube

I too use a tie rod end removal tool. They fit in both the front and rear areas and pop the taper loose without any damage to the ball / socket.

I just removed mine today with a regular ball joint puller you can buy at any parts store.

GB