painting engine

[Skeezixx]

I'm planning on painting my engine. I will be removing the manifolds, starter, generator etc. as they need paint too. I bought new head nuts and washers as the others were a bit rusty.
My question is can I simply remove the old head nuts, paint the head while still mounted, and then retourque the head without compromising the head gasket seal? Then I can install the new nuts in the proper tourquing sequence.

[mleder]

I think that you would regret re using a gasket that has taken many heat cycles. I think that most people to respond will have a more detailed reason why not to use it.

[Mitch//pa]

i would drain coolant first. then remove one head nut at a time paint under it and reinstall. do not remove more than one nut at time. would also do it in the proper torque sequence
of course there are risks such as snapping a stud etc

[Skeezixx]

Originally Posted by Mitch//pa

i would drain coolant first. then remove one head nut at a time paint under it and reinstall. do not remove more than one nut at time. would also do it in the proper torque sequence
of course there are risks such as snapping a stud etc

I'll have the radiator out as I am replacing the water pump (four blade fan). I had considered removing one nut at a time in the proper torque sequence. I could also simply paint over the nuts and then replace them one at a time in sequence as you advised.

BTW:

The engine was rebuilt in 1986 and sat on a stand until June 30th 2013. It has 51 miles on it now. The reason I didn't paint it before installing it in the car is a long story.

[Mitch//pa]

your still removing the nut so paint under it will be a better job

[gweilbaker]

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Sure! But beware of paint on the bosses, re-torque a few time before driven hard. Same goes for the manifold. And be easy on them. As posted before, drain the cooling.

[RonC]

I would remove the head. You will have already done all the work up to taking it off. The paint job will be difficult avoiding painting the head gasket if installed. Also you will be taping off the studs and what about the overspray?

[Skeezixx]

Originally Posted by RonC

I would remove the head. You will have already done all the work up to taking it off. The paint job will be difficult avoiding painting the head gasket if installed. Also you will be taping off the studs and what about the overspray?

I'll be using sponge brushes on the block and head. Only spraying parts I remove from the car.

[BILL WILLIAMSON]

Well, lemme think? Dog here, Ol' Bill's an Ol' HOT RODDER, whutever that means??? Vermin's got all new NUTS, but Ol' Bill's puttin' on them KROME Acorn nut covers & rubbin' sum varnish/stain on them fur PATINA! You kuld do thet to kuver up yo' RUSTY nuts! Fer me, I don't have thet problem!!
Buster T.

[theHIGHLANDER]

You could take em all off and re-torque in proper sequence if you don't disturb the head. Up the torque figure 2-4 ftlbs and take it up slowly like in 3rds of the value or perhaps just 1/2 n 1/2. I.E., if your number is 60 go 20-40-60 or just 30-60. It makes a difference. Keeping the threads actually used free of paint is important to proper TQ. A drop of motor oil should go on clean threads when torquing. It's a fun job, especially when it's done!

[Napa Skip]

Originally Posted by Skeezixx

...I bought new head nuts and washers as the others were a bit rusty...

Presuming your present head gasket does not leak, I would give consideration to wire brushing (manually or using a Dremel tool) the existing head nuts and masking them off while painting the engine.

Once you remove the first head nut, you've crossed the Rubicon and the dye is cast (to mix a couple of metaphores).

[Mike V. Florida]

Originally Posted by RonC

I would remove the head. You will have already done all the work up to taking it off. The paint job will be difficult avoiding painting the head gasket if installed. Also you will be taping off the studs and what about the overspray?

I agree.

[Skeezixx]

Originally Posted by Napa Skip

Presuming your present head gasket does not leak, I would give consideration to wire brushing (manually or using a Dremel tool) the existing head nuts and masking them off while painting the engine.

Once you remove the first head nut, you've crossed the Rubicon and the dye is cast (to mix a couple of metaphores).

It's a 1930 engine which went into a 29. I have to replace the water outlet anyway. Once I remove the two nuts holding that on I'm committed anyway.

The engine was rebuilt in 1986 and stored in a garage since then. During the past 26 years that it has been dormant the appearance has suffered. I didn't have a chance to paint it while on the stand. It went into a fresh restoration and now makes it look like an "older restoration." The washers and nuts on it now are cadmium plated and have gotten rusty. The replacements from Snyders are stainless.

The engine runs fine and the head gasket does not leak. I tourqued it after first start and after 50 miles (it has 51 miles now). I see no reason to remove the head and compromise the gasket seal if it's not necessary.

Even if I had painted it on the stand I would have had to replace the nuts.

[Purdy Swoft]

I would paint the head with the old nuts in place. I would then remove the old nuts one at a time and replace with new nuts in sequence. The last BF head that I installed, I placed pennies over the head bolt holes and painted the head off of the engine. The instructions was to not paint under the head nuts but to put a small drop of oil and then install the head nut.

[Skeezixx]

Originally Posted by Purdy Swoft

I would paint the head with the old nuts in place. I would then remove the old nuts one at a time and replace with new nuts in sequence. The last BF head that I installed, I placed pennies over the head bolt holes and painted the head off of the engine. The instructions was to not paint under the head nuts but to put a small drop of oil and then install the head nut.

This sounds like the plan! And I can replace the nuts after the paint cures for a few days.

Thanks.

[BILL WILLIAMSON]

Skeezix, after studying your pics, it's not as bad as I thought. It's AMAZING, what can be done with careful hand cleaning, masking, & carefully painting. I use T.S.P. & water, in a small can & a scruffy paint brush to clean difficult areas. T.S.P. is not only a good cleaner, but it also etches the surface for better paint adhesion & it doesn't require washing down before painting, just merely wipe it down with a towel. Even small parts that I paint, get a washing down with T.S.P, just before I paint it.
T.S.P, mixed to a pancake batter consistency, is also a fair paint stripper, kinda' slow, but safe & NOT smelly. I've also used it to get grease scum from cooling systems & mixed with HOT water in a coffee can, it also cleans carbs quite well. T.S.P. is easy to find at household paint stores, hardware stores, etc.
When I'm SPRAY PAINTING in the engine area, I just "cocoon" the whole car or chassis with them CHEEP plastic drop cloths & cut a hole to expose just the engine, Chuck tole me how, & he's a MASTER PAINTER!!! Bill W.

Yo, Skeedoodle, Dog here,
We be waitin' fer them"AFTER" pics, now don't firgit!
Buster T.

[Skeezixx]

The TSP sounds like a good choice Bill. I'll see if I can find it locally.

The story is the PO started to restore a 30 coupe many years ago and went stale on the project but not till after he sent the engine off to the now defunct Precision Machine Works in WI for a total rebuild. Until last month it had never been started or installed in a car.

The engine is not greasy or dirty at all, It sat on the stand you see in the pics since 1986. In the second pic what looks like oil is where I wiped some of the dust off of it. The problem is that since it sat in Southern Louisiana's 100% humidity untouched for 27 years after it's rebuild, there's some light rust showing through the paint and all the cadmium plated and raven hardware has light rust (really bums me out to see those Champion 3Xs rusting).

I wanted to change the waterpump to a leakless type and since you can see it has a 4 blade fan I have to remove the radiator. I figured since I'd have easy access to the front of the engine at least, now would be a good time to address the way the engine looks. I can't just paint it and leave those rusty head nuts there. Hence my question concerning removing them.

I'm not sure when I will tackle the job but I do intend to have it done before Model A day as my chapter is meeting two others for a tour and I dearly want to show it off.

[Tom Wesenberg]

Whoa Skeezixx ..............I got sidetracked when looking at your avatar and just noticed.........those aren't model A wheels in your picture.

Where in WI was Precision Machine Works?

I would paint the engine with a brush and replace the head nuts one at a time.
G-96 gun blueing does a nice job on the 3X plugs and other raven parts.

[Ed Saniewski]

Sleezixx, you said in your first post you bought new head nuts and washers, there are no washers used under the head nuts. Did I read that right?

[Jordan]

You know those round cardboard things that come on the end of new spark plugs, those are perfect for putting over a head nut when painting an engine. Just a suggestion.