Head / Stud Removal

[James Rogers]

Stock measurements are 23/4" for all except the #8 ignition stud, it is 2 29/32" and the front 2 at the water pump which are 5". This may vary with your HC head.

[Bill O'Brien]

So I had bought the stud drilling kit from Brattons that was designed by DON WI of this forum. It is a great kit. The only things not with the kit were spacers to put pressure on the plates that you put over the studs.

I also had to put washers at the bases of the studs because the holes in the plates would not fit flush against the block due to the widening of the studs at the base.

Well I used the centering bit and then the 25/32's bit and I drilled... and I drilled..... and I drilled........ and I drilled... I was using a plug in 1/2 drill that has some power. I didn't get too far.

I then bought a Dewalt Cobalt Pilot Point bit.... got through the stud in about 10 minutes!!!! If you buy this kit spend the $12 and but the Dewalt or a similar bit.....

Studs are in!!! But I now know why I had such an issue getting the head off.... one of my studs... rear 2nd in from manifold side is tweaked. It isn't the stud as the studs are new. My idea is to use a wood block and push the stud straight as I drop the head down onto wd blocks and then remove the blocks and let the head down.

Thoughts?? I'm looking for the easiest way to get this done. Engine is in the car all set to go except for the top end.....

[1931 flamingo]

If it was me I would probably "re-tweak" that stud, otherwise you're going to have problems when trying to remove head in the future and you might have to. JMO
Paul in CT

[newshirt]

I snapped off two studs this week, and I'm searching for ways to get them out. Any advice would be appreciated.

I drilled out the centers and tried Sears screw extractors. No luck. Frozen.

They've been sitting in Kroil for three days. I tug on them twice a day.

My next plan was to heat the broken-off studs with a MAPP gas torch and quench and soak with Kroil. Repeat 15 - 20 times over three days. Then maybe the screw extractor would work.

Is this a good idea or bad?

[Mitch]

Forget the screw extractor, generally, all they do is breakoff in the bolt/stud. If you don't have a welder, get someone who does, and use the washer - nut method mentioned above.

[Tom Wesenberg]

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Heat the stud red hot then pull the torch away and let the heat go to the bottom of the stud. Then heat it red hot again and give the heat time to soak down. As the stud cools put some wax against the side of the stud, so it melts and wicks into the threads. If the stud still breaks, then weld a washer on the stud and weld a nut on the washer. If this breaks, repeat this welded washer and nut method again. If the nut and washer breaks off a second time, then carefully center punch the exact center of the broken stud. Use a 1/8" drill bit to drill a hole down the exact center. If the top of the broken stud isn't flat you may have to hold the drill at an angle to get the hole started and kept in the center. Then use the next size drill bit to enlarge the hole. Keep going up in size by 1/32" increments until you can just start to see the edge of the threads. I then use a pick to pull out what threads I can. If you can get down a couple threads, then you can use a tap to start threading, which will usually grab the threads and move them enough so you can remove the tap and pick out some more threads. I've never had to use a heli-coil by using this method.

Just be very carefull to drill slowly and NOT break a drill bit. I have once broken a drill bit and it sure adds to the work, but still can be fixed. I then use my Dremel with a grind stone or diamond bit to grind away the drill bit.

Also use care when drilling, so you stop as soon as the bit gets through the stud. Measure an open hole to be sure you don't drill down too far and go through the closed cast hole and into the water jacket.

[Charlie Stephens]

Bill,

A good thing to know if you break a stud off in the block is that there are companies that specialize in stud removal. For the really difficult ones they use a process that eats out the stud with an electric arc. I first encountered this process while working as a machinist for the aerospace industry. Some of the parts were pretty expensive when it came time to drill the last deep hole. There are several of these companies in the Los Angeles area (I use Jerry's Broken Tap and Drill Removal, (714) 836-6824)). Outside of this area I would start looking by asking at local automotive machine shops. This is one of the projects I farm out since I don't have the equipment or do it often enough to become good at it.

Charlie Stephens

[mrtexas]

Here is my recent experience. I removed 9 studs with my HF jam type stud remover that looks like a socket. I broke one off and had 4 stuck with me afraid to pull any harder. I took my block to a retired professional welder friend and all he did was heat the 4 stuck ones and quench with water 1 or 2 times and they came right out using a short pipe wrench.

For the broken off one, we used a special stud extractor rod that costs $40 a pound. It worked on the second try. The rod has a special ceramic coating to prevent the weld metal from sticking to the threads.

I believe I wouldn't have broken off the one stud if I had heated and quenched it first before trying.

Well this is my second experience with removing studs. The first block, they all came out OK. I wouldn't try it again without heating/quenching.

https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showth...highlight=stud

https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showth...stud+extractor

Funny how on this board you always get an old grouch who says whatever you try won't work, it' not designed for that, etc.