Recommendations for 59AB in a belly tank for Bonneville

[Ziffer]

I am in the process of building a Belly tank for Bonneville. I want it to be period correct post WWII. Need to use the 59AB for size and built in trans adpt. What are your recommendations for Intake, heads, etc.

Thanks
Z

[SUHRsc]

Your best bet in building something such as this, "period correct" is to find photos from the year or time that your planning to build... look at them under a magnifying glass... or scan and blow them up.... pic out all the details that you can and try to replicate them.... look in magazines and whatnot for advertizing of the time also to know what was available....

if your building a car to race today... its very hard to have it built legally and be accurate to a late 40's time build which is what I'm guessing you mean by "post WWII"

Good luck
Zach

[Ol' Ron]

Are you planing on racing it, or just driving it at shows, or just looking at it.

[Mike in AZ]

so-cal belly tank??.....might be a good example....Mike

[Ziffer]

It is definitely going to the salt to be raced. I'd be hoping for somewhere in the 150mph range.

[Lawrie]

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Talk to wayno,he posts here,he has just built and run a belly tank with flathead power.
Lawrie

[JM 35 Sedan]

Check

Originally Posted by Lawrie

Talk to wayno,he posts here,he has just built and run a belly tank with flathead power.
Lawrie

I was just getting ready to post the same info. Send him a PM. I am sure he will enlighten you with some good helpful information. His 'stage name' here is Elmo Rodge. He posted some pictures of his tank on a Bonneville related post last summer. I saw him and his tank this year during Speed Week. Do a quick search and you will see some of his posts with pictures.

[36tbird]

Blonde Bitch is the finest example of craftsmanship for a belly tank that I've seen. If you set your mark to that level, your tank will be stupendous.

If you haven't been to Bonneville, plan to go this next year. It is fabulous. As everyone says, first thing you do is join the SCTA and get a rule book.

[SUHRsc]

Originally Posted by 36tbird

Blonde Bitch is the finest example of craftsmanship for a belly tank that I've seen. If you set your mark to that level, your tank will be stupendous.

If you haven't been to Bonneville, plan to go this next year. It is fabulous. As everyone says, first thing you do is join the SCTA and get a rule book.

I had the pleasure of helping out by making the head fairing for this tank.... your right... its what to strive for if your really going to race....
Andy tried his best to have his tank look as period accurate as possible and its a great example to use for inspiration...

Zach

[awelker]

Since the Blonde Bitch has been brought up here are some pictures. Zach formed the red fairing and did a great job, far beyond my abilities. Just glad he is nearby. I spent alot of effort to be as vintage as possible, but you will need to sacrifice in some areas to meet current safety specs.

Suggestions are to read the rules over and over again, and begin discussion with SCTA inspectors listed in the rulebook and start sending them pictures for review. Also remember even if you only want to go 150, your car needs to be built capable of passing tech based on the current record in the class.

On to the details, what tank are you using? My tank is the Navy Hellcat/Albatross tank which is a fair amount smaller than a P-38. I was determined not to stretch my tank for length to keep "the look" I was after which made packaging a challenge.

As for the flathead, I am using a 59AB 284 cu-in. It is not a street motor but could be more for Bonneville, and I plan a bigger motor for the future. This was our first year and managed a best run of 164. This was shifting at about 6200 rpm and running through the end of the 3rd mile at 5100 rpm. I was glad to come home with everything intact.

If you have any questions or want to chat about the process I would be glad to. There is alot that goes into this but it is alot of fun.

Andy

[Tim Ayers]

Wow, the Blonde Bitch looks great. Nice work!

In regards to reference picts., Zach is right. Also, there have a been a number of spreads in The Rodders Journal that do a great job of showing a lot of the detail that goes into making one of these cars.

Good luck and keep us updated!

[awelker]

Here are some youtube videos from a couple runs at speedweek for who are interested.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RR-vS...feature=relmfu
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0rAufoSBCUI
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VT3xz...feature=relmfu

[Ziffer]

I have gotten a coupe and a roadster through tech-in but it is always stressful even when they have passed tech-in before. I like the suggestion of discussing the build with SCTA as I go. This may save a great headache down the road.

The tank I have is 13 feet long and 32 inches at the widest part. I know the P38 is 36 max width but I can't afford the initial investment.

Thanks for the suggestions.

Z

[awelker]

Sounds like the same tank as mine. 32 at the widest is including the flange, 30 without. It a tight fit with the flathead, also my height did not help. I'm 6'4" and had to use up a lot of room for driver compartment.

Any pictures?

[Barz51]

Assistant builder/loyal minion here. Below are a couple of pictures while we were removing the big magnesium mounting plate. I can't believe the quality of the construction on this tank! And to think that it was designed to be used once and dropped into the ocean!

Here's a shot of me pulling the first rail off:


Both rails and the big mounting plate off, I can't believe the number of fasteners used!


A shot inside the tank looking toward the nose, every hole on this thing was belled and every piece spot welded dozens of times!


A picture of a neat schematic on the side of the tank:

[awelker]

Same tank as mine, yes alot of bolt holding the mounting bracket on. I used 2 tanks, both bottom halfs, by cutting the tank just above the flange.

Don't forget to take the bolts out of the center bulheads, these hold the two halves together as well.

[Barz51]

I was going to ask how you split the flange and I was hoping you would not say you used two tanks! Very nice job on yours by the way, I love the roll cage/firewall fabrication, fantastic work!

[36tbird]

I've been saving Andy's number for when I finally get to start on my tank and go to split it. So, yeah, if anyone has pics of the process, please post 'em.

Andy, wish I could have met you out in B'ville this year but we were out there only 2 days and there is so much to see, it is very hectic.

My tank is from an Albatross and therefore a bit longer.

[awelker]

Looked through all of my pictures and have nothing during the split just before and after. I used a cutoff wheel in a 4" grinder and cut just above the flange, I do not think trying to split the welded flange is a good idea the roll weld is fused very well.

What some have done with only 1 tank is form a new flange for the one side and either spot weld or rivet it fast.

Here are the labels that were on mine and after split with bulkheads removed, which was a major pain in itself.

[36coupe]

So cool!
LC