28/29 front body block pads

[wrndln]

I am getting ready to install the body on my 28 coupe. Most of the rubber pads are simple enough to figure out where they go and are hidden from the outside. The front rubber pads are different. They are longer and are a little odd shaped. I have some rubber material with cording inside the rubber I am making the pads from. I am attaching a picture of some pads from Snyder's catalog as a reference. Snyder's pads look a little crude, but maybe that is the way Ford made them. The second picture is a cardboard pattern I made that looks better that Snyder's pads. The question I have for someone with a 28/29 model A is; can you see the front pads from outside the car? I am concerned that the pads would be visible between the splash aprons and body in the cowl area. Could someone post a response on how there pad looks after the body was installed. I am wondering how much the pad should be cut back from the outside edge of the cowl and the A pillar so as not to show, but to still do their job.
Thanks for any help.
Rusty Nelson

[Dan Partain]

Rusty,

I have a tracing of an original pad that Pluck sent to me for my project, it looks just like the ones in the photo from Snyders. I cut my own like you did from rubber I purchased in Sacramento.

I've looked closely at restored 28-29 cowls and see a real variety of thicknesses and shapes. The cowl panel wraps under the subframe about 5/8" to 3/4" and is riveted to the subframe. The rivets on the bottom side of my cowl were not flattened very well so I peened them until they were flat. I think the rubber should at least go under the rivets. That put the rubber edge pretty close to the edge of the cowl.

Someone with originals will probably chime in, or post photos.

[Charles Reese]

believe the rubber pads were similar to the wood blocks and should NOT show beyond the wood edges. Remember too, if your going for points, that original pads had a layer of cotton material embedded in them. took me a while to find a local source.

[Gary Karr]

If properly made and installed, the front pads will be visible if you get down and look directly between the side of the cowl and the running board shield. It does not stick out beyond the bottom edge of the cowl though and Ford made no attempt to hide the pads. In fact, I have seen on original, unrestored cars, there were more than one pad installed under the cowl to shim the body up. Dave Lopes' original unrestored '29 Fordor is a perfect example. It has more than one layer of the pad under the right side cowl.

[ericr]

I wish someone would post a mail-order source of original-style pads that we could acquire.

[d.j. moordigian]

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The original pads of my car are in very sad shape. Also, didn't realize the sets the
vendors sell are inferior. I have some rubber covered cloth here at work, but not
large enough to make a set, it's .100".

About how thick are we talking about...not compressed?

[ericr]

Originally Posted by d.j. moordigian

The original pads of my car are in very sad shape. Also, didn't realize the sets the
vendors sell are inferior. I have some rubber covered cloth here at work, but not
large enough to make a set, it's .100".

About how thick are we talking about...not compressed?

That's the million dollar question, I guess. Repros are 1/8" thick but compress more than originals. Repros are apparently made from simple plumbing gasket stock.

[d.j. moordigian]

Originally Posted by ericr

That's the million dollar question, I guess. Repros are 1/8" thick but compress more than originals. Repros are apparently made from simple plumbing gasket stock.

The rubber being an insulator, I would think .100"-.125" should be close,
( I need to to measure my old stuff) the wood blocks would be pivotal for
clearance of the shields and fasteners.

[Bob C]

I would think one of these would be good for the pads.
http://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-rubber-sheets/=ickqre
http://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-co...-belts/=ickra4

Bob

[wrndln]

What I have is some conveyer belt material with the cording inside it. It is slightly more than 1/8" thick. The original pads on some blocks I have are between 1/8" and 3/16" thick - closer to 3/16" on average. Smashed down they are about 1/8". Some one mentioned that Tractor Supply sells belting for balers that is about 1/8" thick with cording inside the rubber. I would think that would work OK.
Rusty Nelson

[Charles Reese]

that's what i used ... worked great!! found it in a coupla thicknesses (dont recall at the moment) ... had to buy more than i needed tho ('by the foot')

[d.j. moordigian]

Can't wait to get home too measure the ones I have with the venereal calipers.
Do you think they were all the same thickness, or did the vary for shimming?

[wrndln]

Charles,
My belting is similar to what is in your picture, except is only has one cord in it and a slightly thinner. I am pasting in a picture of my equivalent pads. The original pads had one cord in them.
Rusty Nelson

[Gary Karr]

Rusty, I think you're right on the thickness. What Charles showed seems to be too thick. Also, note the wood screw and washer on the block posted by Charles. That screw is to attach the early running board shield on the top as it does not sit on the frame rail as the later '28/29 style-a cool item in that picture!

[d.j. moordigian]

Originally Posted by Gary Karr

Rusty, I think you're right on the thickness. What Charles showed seems to be too thick. Also, note the wood screw and washer on the block posted by Charles. That screw is to attach the early running board shield on the top as it does not sit on the frame rail as the later '28/29 style-a cool item in that picture!

Great information Gary!

Thank you, Dudley

[Charles Reese]

Originally Posted by Gary Karr

Rusty, I think you're right on the thickness. What Charles showed seems to be too thick.

Mr. Karr is correct ... this was my 'first' attempt at the padding ... had to go back and get the thinner stock ... i think i used some of the thicker under the pickup bed blocks and 'doubled' the thinner at one location in order to get the doors to align properly. i cut out the bolt holes (see pix) which allowed me to 'shim' without removing the bolts until i got the alignment i needed. then tacked the pads to the blocks.

[d.j. moordigian]

I have one last question(that will never happen)......

In Chapter #4 of the JS it sez that the body blocks were painted Black(except the front for 28-29).

1. Charles Reese's body block, in the photo, is unpainted and from the SFA Plant.
2. My car also has unpainted body blocks, it also came from the SFA Plant.
3. The cars are about 4 months apart.

Question,...Do I see a pattern here, doe's this call for a variance?

Thank you, Dudley

[Charles Reese]

i did find small flakes of a black substance down in the grain on most of my blocks. remember, this truck sat in the Oklahoma sun/weather for 50+ years!! due to the earlier style, there were/are no wood stretchers under the bed.