Battery cut-off

[G&N Farms]

I've had the battery go dead a few times overnight. After reading a lot of post, it might be the cutout on the generator. Maybe, maybe not. Anyway, I am going to put a battery disconnect of some kind.

Should I put it in-between starter and battery at the starter or is there somewhere else that would work better? I don't know if I want a big-ol switch hanging off the starter. Just asking.

Thanks.

[Mike V. Florida]

This kit has a mount that bolts onto the starter motor,

Mikes Afordable M14300DK

[mshmodela]

Originally Posted by Mike V. Florida

This kit has a mount that bolts onto the starter motor,

Mikes Afordable M14300DK

As Mike V. posted this is good switch. I installed on with the bracket on the starter... Fires suck, all model A should have a cut off installed...

[Fred K-OR]

Originally Posted by Mike V. Florida

This kit has a mount that bolts onto the starter motor,

Mikes Afordable M14300DK

I also use this on both of my rigs. Has worked well. I think you can get the kit from most all of the vendors.

[bbrocksr]

Originally Posted by G&N Farms

I've had the battery go dead a few times overnight. After reading a lot of post, it might be the cutout on the generator. Maybe, maybe not. Anyway, I am going to put a battery disconnect of some kind.

Should I put it in-between starter and battery at the starter or is there somewhere else that would work better? I don't know if I want a big-ol switch hanging off the starter. Just asking.

Thanks.

Put it in the ground cable,when the switch is off nothing will be hot.
Bill

[Mike V. Florida]

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Originally Posted by bbrocksr

Put it in the ground cable,when the switch is off nothing will be hot.
Bill

How do you figure? If either wire on the battery has the switch nothing is hot.

[DougVieyra]

I have two Ford Model A's. On one, my 1928 Phaeton, using the kit described by Mike V. Florida (post #2) I installed below the starter. On the other Model A, a 1931 Dlx Coupe, I cut a hole in the metal seat riser and installed the switch under the seat, with the handle protruding on the outside of the riser, with easy reach to turn on/off.

Each location has it's pluses and it's minuses, for various reasons.

The 'under the starter' using the mounting kit from a Model A Parts supplier, was an easy and quick install. After sanding all metal parts, I sprayed everything with a flat black paint. The unit is not noticeable and is a quite natural part of the engine compartment.
The 'under the seat' installation, while even more un-noticeable, was a REAL PAIN IN THE BUTT to install and took quiet a lot of time and effort. I would never do this location again !

[bbrocksr]

Originally Posted by Mike V. Florida

How do you figure? If either wire on the battery has the switch nothing is hot.

If you put the switch in the hot cable the hot battery post and the cable to the switch will still be hot when the switch is off because they are before the switch. Bill

[Barry B./ Ma.]

Originally Posted by bbrocksr

If you put the switch in the hot cable the hot battery post and the cable to the switch will still be hot when the switch is off because they are before the switch. Bill

Yes, but that cable is very short and if insulated properly it won't short out and it's a much simpler installation near the left rear motor mount. I mount the switch right to the motor mount using the top cut out hole and a large washer.

[bbrocksr]

Originally Posted by Barry B./ Ma.

Yes, but that cable is very short and if insulated properly it won't short out and it's a much simpler installation near the left rear motor mount. I mount the switch right to the motor mount using the top cut out hole and a large washer.

What about the hot post on the battery and the terminal on the disconnect switch, can you insulate them also?

Yes, If "everything" is insulated properly it won't short out.

Why not switch the ground and "nothing" is hot to short out.

Bill

[H. L. Chauvin]

Under "Search", lots of Model A battery switch different opinions, ideas and concerns:

1. On where to locate Model A battery switches with photos of installations; and/or,

2. Different opinions on types of switches to install like heaving duty marine types; some keyed with a removable key for more security; some hidden under floor mats; etc., etc.; and/or,

3. Some even prefer "never" installing Model A battery switches.

Like anything else with so many varying Model A suggestions, in the end, everybody just does what they want to do regardless of what others prefer.

Glad you asked. A little Model A research always helps to allow one to form one's own opinion.

[Tom Wesenberg]

I'd install the master switch on the ground side of the battery. If you use a wrench to disconnect either battery cable and happen to touch the frame, no spark will fly.

With the switch on the starter cable, using a wrench on the negative post or master switch can cause sparks to fly if the wrench touches ground. Sparks around batteries can cause the battery to explode.

[Patrick L.]

I prefer to mount the switch in the cab, I find it a PITA to open the hood to reach that switch.

G&N, are you looking at the ammeter for a discharge after shut down ? A master disconnect is nice, but, I'd recommend finding the draw and fixing it.

[2manycars]

I chose to just disconnect the wire from the starter to the terminal box. This does not disconnect the starter, but it does disconnect everything else, including lights, horn, ignition, and generator. I mount the switch and an inline fuse on the back of the firewall by the terminal box screws. It can be reached from the driver's seat, and the fuse is out of sight.

[Ed Saniewski]

All my car's have the master switch described above. I leave the hood open after shutting off the switch and that way I can tell at a glance that all are shut off.When I go for a drive, I remember to check the oil when I turn the battery on.

[Afordman31]

On the speedster I am building I can reach under the frame to reach the switch as the car is fenderless. Also can see the switch thru the louvres.

[George Miller]

on my sport coupe there was a hole in the center cross member, just in front of the seat. So I only have to reach down to turn it on.

On my Model A pickup I mounted it to the frame and cut a hole in the floor board, with a cover that turns over the hole. I also do not want to lift the hood every time I drive my cars. Which is often.

I never want to put one on until the Alternator shorted out on my speedster. Good thing I was right there or I would have lost my garage and every thing in it. That includes 6 cars.

I also use the ground side.

[denis4x4]

Over the years, I've replaced three of these cheaply units with ones from SoCal Speed Shop. They have metal keys and cost three times the price of a plastic one. I always install it on the ground side.

[Jim Brierley]

On the ground cable and where it is reachable from the driver's seat.

[H. L. Chauvin]

FWIW:

My battery cut-off is all non-ferrous metal, advertised as marine quality, with a keyed switch, (w/removable key); installed as recommended by the manufacturer for maximum safety, i.e., to disconnect the battery ground cable; located on the driver's side, within the existing hole in the in Model A frame's cross member in front of the seat, with an upper round hole provided through the floor board, hidden under the floor mat, with said hole covered with the top of a tin can provided with a single screw to allow the top of tin can to slide open sideways for easy access, and to close to keep out dirt and debris.

Used it often only once to totally rewire the car.

One caution is, if disconnect is in "OFF" position, and is not connected to ground side of battery, one can be servicing the battery under the floor board, possibly hit both terminals with a wrench, ignite the hydrogen fumes exiting the battery, have the battery explode in one's face ..... after witnessing this episode once happening to another guy ....... I was convinced that flying battery acid is dangerous.