Original Ammeter

[jkcrosson]

Is the picture attached an original ammeter or a aftermarket?
thanks

[160B]

After market! The originals interior brass internals were painted black. Also bezel is not correct. Pointer not correct shape. Post a photo of the back side.

[jkcrosson]

Picture of back attached.

[glenn in camino]

On an original, you can't see the brass piece at the back. I think it's a repo.

[jkcrosson]

Oh well, it's not mine but on Ebay. Been looking for a good original with no luck. I have an original that needs to be restored. Any suggestions?

[160B]

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Originally Posted by jkcrosson

Picture of back attached.

It is REPO

The back is not correct. See the attached photo of an original front and back. Look at the insulators on the back, the bezel, the lettering, the shape of the pointer, the nuts, and numbers. And no brass internals showing.

[jkcrosson]

Actually, after realizing that I have an original ammeter in an old dash panel, it was silly to post the question here. Sorry for the inconvenience. Don't mean to post questions without being willing to research myself.

[Tom Wesenberg]

What is wrong with your original? Finish, or function? Or both?

[jkcrosson]

Finish for sure and possible function too.

[Purdy Swoft]

I remember the box and ammeter pictured above. The best that I remember, this is the ammeter that was sold by many of the model A parts houses in the sixties and seventies. This is a repro 26-27 model T part that can also be used on the model A. The model T was negative ground. If this ammeter is used on a positive ground model A you will have to reverse the wires or it will register backwards. I've used this type of ammeter many times over the years. They fit the instrument panel better and don't come apart like the ammeters that are now offered.

[Michael Cooper]

I'm going to change my original 20-20 ammeter for a cheep chinese 30amp because this is about what the gen puts out at full power. This is needed to run haligen tail lights (x2) and normal headlights. When the lights are not going during the day the poor needle disapairs on the charge side and condesation apears on the glass(not good). Of cause running the park lights brings the needle back into sight as long as the brain is fully engaged.

[Marco Tahtaras]

Originally Posted by 160B

It is REPO

The back is not correct. See the attached photo of an original front and back. Look at the insulators on the back, the bezel, the lettering, the shape of the pointer, the nuts, and numbers. And no brass internals showing.

Is it just the pic? The face plate lettering looks white instead of aluminum.

[Tom Wesenberg]

Originally Posted by Michael Cooper

I'm going to change my original 20-20 ammeter for a cheep chinese 30amp because this is about what the gen puts out at full power. This is needed to run haligen tail lights (x2) and normal headlights. When the lights are not going during the day the poor needle disapairs on the charge side and condesation apears on the glass(not good). Of cause running the park lights brings the needle back into sight as long as the brain is fully engaged.

Are you running an alternator? The limit on the Model A generator is about 15 amps.
BTW, my 28 has the stock taillight and is plenty bright. At night I just glance back to make sure it's lit and I can see the road very well lit in back. Some people use LED's for the taillights since they are also bright and don't draw much current.

[Tom Wesenberg]

Originally Posted by Marco Tahtaras

Is it just the pic? The face plate lettering looks white instead of aluminum.

Here is my original 1928 ammeter and it also looks white in the picture. I also have a photo of a June 1928 Tudor ammeter and it also appears white in pictures.

[Michael Cooper]

Tom
I think my gen is a late 30-31, with the 3rd brush pushed right down when running at night,
I have bright tail lights as we live rural, no street lighting or much traffic. Only having one 5watt tail light dos't give conferdace with cars gaining on you at speeds oftern above 100kph (60mph)
We have a 28 ragtop pickup with a drum tail light, hav'nt seen LEDs for them yet, would change!

[Tom Wesenberg]

Michael, do a Google search for "brightlights" or "britelights" and you'll probably find 6 volt LED bulbs that fit the drum taillight.

[RonC]

Here's a NOS faceplate with replated bezel. Notice the thickness and silver color of the lettering and hash marks. The ammeter is also NOS.

[d.j. moordigian]

What about this one? Note the part number in the lower left corner...

[160B]

Originally Posted by Marco Tahtaras

Is it just the pic? The face plate lettering looks white instead of aluminum.

Here is an excerpt from the Model A Ford Judging Standards and Restoration Guidelines Area 6 Instruments and Controls page 6-2 Revised 2011. Under the paragraph on Ammeter

“The pointer on the gauge came in two different styles ........... and may appear brighter than the scale on the face.”

Also here are two photos of the ammeter in my 1931S/W Town Sedan, I acquired in 1998 with 60,000 original miles.

It appears to be a combination of the "may appear brighter " and the photos.

[160B]

Originally Posted by d.j. moordigian

What about this one? Note the part number in the lower left corner...

This ammeter has the different style lettering, but otherwise looks the same to me and just like the JS states

“The pointer on the gauge came in two different styles (see photo) and may appear brighter than the scale on the face.”

[RonC]

Originally Posted by 160B

Here is an excerpt from the Model A Ford Judging Standards and Restoration Guidelines Area 6 Instruments and Controls page 6-2 Revised 2011. Under the paragraph on Ammeter

“The pointer on the gauge came in two different styles ........... and may appear brighter than the scale on the face.”

Also here are two photos of the ammeter in my 1931S/W Town Sedan, I acquired in 1998 with 60,000 original miles.

It appears to be a combination of the "may appear brighter " and the photos.

The lettering appears white? I don't believe any Model A ammeters had white lettering. The bezel looks correct. Perhaps the face plate was replaced?

[msmaron]

Here is a NOS for E28

[Charlie Stephens]

Originally Posted by Michael Cooper

I'm going to change my original 20-20 ammeter for a cheep chinese 30amp because this is about what the gen puts out at full power. This is needed to run haligen tail lights (x2) and normal headlights. When the lights are not going during the day the poor needle disapairs on the charge side and condesation apears on the glass(not good). Of cause running the park lights brings the needle back into sight as long as the brain is fully engaged.

If run a wire between the two terminals of the ammeter such that some of the current goes through the ammeter and some around it you can still use the 20 amp one. I am doing this on my '32 and it works fine. There is a lot of room behind the dash of a '32 (tank is in back) and you may have to run the jumper wire somewhere else in the circuit. Maybe two wires from the generator with one going through the ammeter and the other going around it? The reading will be off (low) but you just need to remember that and no one else will know. What are you running for a generator?
Charlie Stephens

[d.j. moordigian]

Originally Posted by msmaron

Here is a NOS for E28

Mark,
I'm sure I had a discussion with Doug Clayton about the bezel and he
said "no". Late "T" maybe..

Dudley

[msmaron]

Originally Posted by d.j. moordigian

Mark,
I'm sure I had a discussion with Doug Clayton about the bezel and he
said "no". Late "T" maybe..

Dudley

Interesting as Mick Isbell says YES! to E28 (Jan to be exact)

[Marco Tahtaras]

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Originally Posted by msmaron

Interesting as Mick Isbell says YES! to E28 (Jan to be exact)

Unfortunately, no "T" bezels. Also, the plater was a little heavy handed at the buffing wheel as "T" bezels were actually flat (not domed) originally.

[d.j. moordigian]

Thanks Marco,
I see what your saying.

Any comment on the lettering, font,...which ones are correct?

[RonC]

I think the last style "T" ammeters had Ford script face plates and the bezels are flat

[160B]

I went out to the garage today and after cleaning up some of my mess from the day before I looked at my miscellaneous electrical box and found another ammeter.

Here is a photo of two of them.

In this photo I can see the whitish lettering on the one on the left and the one on the right has more of a silver look to the lettering.

With the two of them in the same photo and same lighting the difference is more apparent.

Great feedback from everybody, thanks. This is what Fordbarn is about!!!

[jkcrosson]

Originally Posted by 160B

I went out to the garage today and after cleaning up some of my mess from the day before I looked at my miscellaneous electrical box and found another ammeter.

Here is a photo of two of them.

In this photo I can see the whitish lettering on the one on the left and the one on the right has more of a silver look to the lettering.

With the two of them in the same photo and same lighting the difference is more apparent.

Great feedback from everybody, thanks. This is what Fordbarn is about!!!

Yes, this has been a good discussion on original Amp Meters.
Thanks guys

[Jerry Parr WI]

Interesting thing about this NOS ammeter is the division markers between the numbers. It has only 3 lines between the numbers not 4 like most ammeters. I have no explanation although the box is post era.

[jkcrosson]

So, after reading all these post about original ammeters, I came home today, disassembled mine, cleaned everything and reassembled. Other than the plating on the bezel, I do not think any other work will be required. I'm always amazed at how these 83 year old parts clean up with relatively no effort.

Again thanks for all the informative post.

[160B]

Originally Posted by Jerry Parr WI

Interesting thing about this NOS ammeter is the division markers between the numbers. It has only 3 lines between the numbers not 4 like most ammeters. I have no explanation although the box is post era.

could you post a photo of the back of the ammeter?

thanks for the post

160B

[Tom Wesenberg]

Originally Posted by jkcrosson

So, after reading all these post about original ammeters, I came home today, disassembled mine, cleaned everything and reassembled. Other than the plating on the bezel, I do not think any other work will be required. I'm always amazed at how these 83 year old parts clean up with relatively no effort.

Again thanks for all the informative post.

You can use SEMICHROME to polish the rim. See my post above, and that is what I used on my original ammeter. Unless the rim is very bad the Semichrome will make it shine quite well.

[jkcrosson]

Originally Posted by Tom Wesenberg

You can use SEMICHROME to polish the rim. See my post above, and that is what I used on my original ammeter. Unless the rim is very bad the Semichrome will make it shine quite well.

Tom, I have started polishing with Flitz metal polish. It is doing a decent job. I'll post some pictures after a little more elbow grease. Probably finish it up tomorrow afternoon.

[msmaron]

Originally Posted by Marco Tahtaras

Unfortunately, no "T" bezels. Also, the plater was a little heavy handed at the buffing wheel as "T" bezels were actually flat (not domed) originally.

Are we saying that all 4 years had the exact same amp. Including E28. Curious on this please.

[Tom Wesenberg]

Mark,
Take a flashlight battery, such as a D cell or AA, etc. and a piece of wire and connect the + to the passenger side of the meter and connect the - to the driver's side of the meter. The needle will move to the RIGHT on a Model A ammeter.

Just do this briefly because this is a dead short on the battery.

[160B]

Originally Posted by msmaron

Are we saying that all 4 years had the exact same amp. Including E28. Curious on this please.

Per the judging standards the two styles of lettering were used all years, and each had a different style of pointer.

[Marco Tahtaras]

Originally Posted by msmaron

Are we saying that all 4 years had the exact same amp. Including E28. Curious on this please.

We spelled it out in the revisions. Since the subtle differences in the needle and face plate are likely supplier variations and there are no records that specify supplier specifics or timelines for those suppliers, it would be more than a bit presumptuous to limit the use of either variation. However the actual "Model A" ammeter was documented long before actual production of cars ever began so the use of a Model T version would be a stretch to say the least.

[700rpm]

Originally Posted by msmaron

Here is a NOS for E28

I'm looking at an ammeter I just got off eBay, and it has the dimple in the back like yours. Was this the only way to tell it's an E28, or was this simply a manufacturer's dimple? Does such a dimple indicate that it is in fact an original?

[d.j. moordigian]

Originally Posted by 700rpm

I'm looking at an ammeter I just got off eBay, and it has the dimple in the back like yours. Was this the only way to tell it's an E28, or was this simply a manufacturer's dimple? Does such a dimple indicate that it is in fact an original?

OK,....I looked at your ammeter then I looked at the ones I have. There are
2 fonts and 2 needles styles. Your letters and numbers don't look crisp, but
that could be the photo(?). The dimple in the back I don't know,...who's
going to see it? The other thing that bothers me, I can see the Brass Buss
bar through the lens..it should be "flat black". It could be a later production.

I didn't have time to look up the needles. If you paint the inside and use
a Nickle plated bezel, it should be OK. One of the photos shows the numbers and letters as Silver, is this correct?

Dudley

[Tom Wesenberg]

Yes, my original meters have silver.

[d.j. moordigian]

Tom,

Yes, I know....in the ebay photos, it's difficult too tell, one looks Silver...the
other looks kinda White. Just checking