Flywheel removal and installation.

[Tinker]

I have a bad ring gear on the flywheel and I'm getting ready to change it out.

What do I need to know as far as flywheel removal and installation. Planing on leaving the engine in and pulling the rear and transmission.

Few questions:
I know it's heavy (70lbs+) and read you can remove two bolts, use head studs in place of the removed bolts, then remove the remaining studs to pull the flywheel out.

Is the flywheel balanced to the crank from ford?

I know that there are shims that level the flywheel and can be checked with a magnetic dial indicator. Could someone please expand apon this.

Basically any detailed help, and pictures would be great.

Thank you

[Tom Wesenberg]

I don't know of any flywheel shims, but I always mark the flywheel and crank and put them back the same way. I also dial in the flywheel cover by making sure the readings are within .006" measured at 9, 12, and 3 o'clock.

[1930artdeco]

If you have access to a tranny jack that would help in lowering it from the engine. Dropping that on anypart of your body would be most unpleasent.

Mike

[CarlG]

You can also use manifold studs. They are shorter and there is not as much leverage on the threads as you slide it off. Also, you can cut the heads off regular bolts and it will do the same thing, If you don't have a transmission jack, you can use a regular floor jack, just make sure you don't loose it after it comes off the studs. It's a lot of weight in a small space!

[Tinker]

I will mark them thank you.

Tom from what I have read on shimming.
http://fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=72124

Please also elaborate on the flywheel cover. Why would it need to be shimmed.

Are we talking about the flywheel housing? I plan to leave that on the block. Just pulling the clutch housing and transmission.

Bare with me and some stupid questions I will have.
First model a engine - trans removal. V8 - yes, 4 banger - no.

[Dave in MN]

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I'm sure Tom meant flywheel housing. Since you are not removing the housing don't worry about it.
Be careful...heavy!
Dave in MN

[Tinker]

Okay Tom I get what you are saying. Did some more reading.
http://fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=58523

Does the flywheel ring gear have a front or back?

Thanks everyone else for responding.

[Tinker]

Thanks Dave.

[Rainmaker Ron]

Originally Posted by Tinker

I have a bad ring gear on the flywheel and I'm getting ready to change it out.

What do I need to know as far as flywheel removal and installation. Planing on leaving the engine in and pulling the rear and transmission.

Few questions:
I know it's heavy (70lbs+) and read you can remove two bolts, use head studs in place of the removed bolts, then remove the remaining studs to pull the flywheel out.

Is the flywheel balanced to the crank from ford?

I know that there are shims that level the flywheel and can be checked with a magnetic dial indicator. Could someone please expand apon this.

Basically any detailed help, and pictures would be great.

Thank you

Most flywheels will show more wear at the spot were they stop most often. Many times it is not the worn teeth on the ring gear causing the problem as it is the blunted teeth on the bendix pinion and the bent shaft on the starter. Rainmaker Ron

[Mikeinnj]

Does the flywheel ring gear have a front or back?


Yes. Install the new ring gear exactly like the old one is. Take it to a clutch and brake rebuilder and they will put it on if you do not have access to a torch.

[V4F]

the only shims i know of are the 2 brass shims that space the flywheel housing from the block .......... make everything , including the pressure plate . tack welding the ring gear will keep it from moving .

[Tom Endy]

The teeth on the starter ring gear have a bevel on one side. The bevel should face the rear of the car as the gear on the starter shaft engages from the rear. Don't depend on the shop knowing that. Tell them which way to install the gear. If they install it backwards the starter will engage with a loud crashing noise.

Some of the repos do not fit very well and through repeated use the starter shaft gear will nudge the starter ring gear forward on the flywheel away from the stop. I had this happen to me and I have heard others have had the same problem. When it gets far enough forward the starter gears will jam. You can tap it back into place through the starter mounting boss, but it won't stay in place.

The Model A shop I do business with has a technique where he pins the ring gear in three places to the flywheel. I had him do that to mine.

If you removed the throttle linkage bolts from the back of the block the two .010 brass shims could fall out (or they may not have been there). Make sure they are there when you button things up. They affect the alignment of the clutch housing. The shims are horse shoe shape and fit between the block and the ears on the clutch housing. Bratton carries them.

Tom Endy

[Tinker]

Ring gear was definitely the issue. Teeth missing in multi spots.

Replaced the bendix, loose fit and broken spring. Probably the calprit.

Do I mig hit it or a little tig? Maybe not a difference. Toward engine or back side on the spot weld.

Steve do you know the toliences for flywheel to block that I should be aware off?

Thanks everyone.

[Tom Wesenberg]

The starter ring gears I've installed have fit so tight they won't come off until I hammer them off. Some guys have installed them by heating them in the BBQ or in the oven. I've used an oxy/acc torch. A small propane torch shouldn't be enough. If it is, then the ring gear is probably not going to be tight enough.

[Brentwood Bob]

some guy has a procedure in the Restorer magazine last year that covers replacing the ring gear. Basically you knock off the old ring gear with a bfh and heat the new ring gear and cool the flywheel with dry ice. Works like a charm. Bob

[Terry, NJ]

Mike, When I changed mine (Ford 8N Tractor, 4 cyl Flathead) I was able to get it hot enough in the kitchen gas oven at 450 deg for about twenty minutes, At the same time I put the fly wheel in the freezer. It went on like a dream (In July) Have all your tools ready and work fast. Use a lead or brass hammer and oil the parts . Put it on and tap it home. One of the easiest "Hard" jobs I ever did!
Terry

Originally Posted by Mikeinnj

Does the flywheel ring gear have a front or back?


Yes. Install the new ring gear exactly like the old one is. Take it to a clutch and brake rebuilder and they will put it on if you do not have access to a torch.

[d.j. moordigian]

Yes Bob, I remember that in the Restorer, good info. Who was that guy.....

[columbiA]

To remove the old ring gear,I hack saw thru the the gear almost to the point of cutting into the F W,then use a hammer & chisel on the cut & it will spring apart.