FSI distributor issue

[emf]

I may have turned a few thousandths more off the housing than I should have. Maybe a hex head screw in place of the slotted screw will get it tighter...

Frank

[Josh Randall]

I used a Cone Point set screw from Fastenal, because the original would turn the Distributor when tightened down.

Might try that if all else fails.

Randall

[Corley]

You may have not got the two screws inside the distributor that hold the plate solid tight, did you check those?

[emf]

You know... I had the distributor shaft in and out so many times, the screws might be loose. I think I was so pleased with my almost success that I may not have tightened them. Easy enough to check...

Frank

[Corley]

Frank, when you get it sorted, we'd love to have your opinion on how it works for you. Now you can move on to using the spark lever for turn signals. Not too difficult...

[bettlesr]

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As the detents are worn off on my spark lever, I am thinking of using it to work my wolf whistle!!

[Corley]

Wolf whistle, , , dirty old man...

[bettlesr]

Yupp!

[emf]

I was able to check the points this morning. Amazing what you can accomplish when you get back to basics... One of the screws holding the points in place was loose. Reset the point gap and tightened all down... purrs like a kitten. As soon as I get a little time, I'll take it out for a spin. This morning I'm taking my AA firetruck to the convention in Lake George for a little fun.

Frank

[barkleydave]

I have been using Pertronix modules for many years with no issues. Have a couple in severe use on a twin engine boat. Running the 6th season no issues and these units are in a boat in the water year round.

Ok lots of pros and cons mostly just opinions. When properly installed they work. Have one been in service on an old vehicle for over 10000 miles over 18 years and no failures.

I have found I like an Original Model A distributor with the FSI module. Easy to setup...
Set timing with pin. (I added a timing mark and degree indicator so I can use a timing light to fine tune.

I set the timing at idle with full spark retard at about 3 degrees retard for that slow model A idle.

I get approx 26 degrees advance and my A's like the advance about 3/4 on a normal highway. We have another A with the Zipper and it works fine but not as fond of the internal advance I like having the spark control!

Ok what about coils?

I have two setups one on each A

#1 Running a 1.4 Ohm coil with an External Ballast Resistor. on a 12 Volt Neg Gnd No pop out switch on off switch which is fused and connected directly to the battery. (Provides very clean current flow no Alternator or Generator Spikes) Make sure you have a very clean ground for the distributor. I run an extra grnd. wire from Dist jut to be sure.

#2 You can also use a 3.0 Ohm coil which is internal resisted without an external Resistor. I have seen no difference in performance with either one.

Now you can do the same with a 6 volt module you then would use a 1.4 ohm coil without an external resistor.

TIP: the lower the ohms the higher the output voltage. a 1.4 ohm is standard for a 6 volt system but when connected to a 12 Volt it MUST be stepped down with the resistor or damage to the module will result. (I think many are bricked that way by mistake)

FSI does provide support and detailed instructions. The best news is they also supply the module already mounted to the plate. I keep one as a spare for tours and I can change it out in 5 min.!

No condenser, no contact plate spring etc. just... no moving parts to wear and unless you blow a timing gear or the dist. screw gets loose timing will not change as you run up the miles.

Which ever you decide to use both work... Fine point Stay with the OEM Touring something to consider. Do not listen to all the noise... do your own research and make your own decision which works best for you.

Note: Ron Cloat "Rainmaker Ron" installed my FS ignition in all our Model A's so I know it was done correctly. Sure miss that guy !

"A man is incapable of leaving a perfectly running machine alone without tinkering!"

[Corley]

Barkleydave,. One comment... The coil that was supplied with my old FSI setup has a 4.1 ohm primary. In addition, the FSI instructions mention that they supply a special resistive wire from switch to coil. That would indicate to me that FSI engineers are apparently concerned about the amount of current that the modual they use can handle.

Given that these provide a really hot spark, and don't have to support high RPMs, and are not on an 8 cylinder engine, (so have a low switch rate), I don't really see a downside to limiting the current to the module even more than you have done. But, that's just what I think, no scientific proofs on that.

If you are happy sliding the spark lever around, then the centrifugal and vacuum advances the Honda offers are obviously not for you. The whole point of this topic was to point out some issues with the FSI setup, (centrifugal advance but no vacuum advance), and offer a solution to those in the form of the modified Honda distributor, which gives you both advances. (And it's also a much cheaper option for the machinist capable guys.)

Everybody has their own favorite setup, they all obviously can work. Different strokes for different folks, and that is how it should be. Thanks for posting your Pretronics data, it all seems reasonable to me.

[bettlesr]

I think I may have found out why my car is frying the modules. I put my ocilloscope across the plus side of the coil to ground. My rotary fuel pump is also across the hot side of the coil, all other accessories are fed from a relay. When I shut off the ignition, the only thing connected to the coil is the pump. I get a fairly good size ac wave on the hot side until the pump stops spinning. This could be higher or lower voltage then the "points" lead to the coil negative. I am going to try connecting the fuel pump to the relay as well. Then when the ignition is shut off only the coil and the relay coil are on the hot side of the coil and module. Running out of spare modules!

[Corley]

Sure sounds like a good theory to me. Good deal scoping it, I hope before installing the new one. Some other ideas, an inductor in serries with the coil, a cap accross the coil feed, a relay feeding only the coil direct from the battery, a ballast resister to the coil only, with one of the previous noise filters, a diode to ground to short out the spike, bow to the east before shutting it down, more prayers, etc. Maybe a different brand module would be more counter emf proof. Of course, you will move everything else from that ckt.
Sounds like you are on the right track. Mine is still working a treat, so I'm sure you will conqure the issue.

To the best of my knowledge, no one else has reported any issues like yours. I admire your persistence!

[bettlesr]

Gavin:
I welded up the slot that limited the amount of advance and then milled the slot shorter to get the amount of advance I wanted. I removed the upper plate and slotted the hole for the mounting screw and put the screw in loose and held in place with Locktite. This allowed me to retard the advance for climbing hills, about 5°. I set the initial timing to 10° btdc with the lever all the way DOWN. This gave me good performance off the line and limited the total to about 25° for cruising and still drop back to around 20 for heavy loads.
Good luck
Dick

[denis4x4]

My ad/marketing agency was handling the Per-Lux account when they acquired Ignitor ignition systems. These modules were designed for stationary engines running 24/7. The line was expanded to include material handling equipment. First time use of the Ignitor in cars were the VW classes of the Baja 1000 & 500 where they were class winners. Mickey Remund, Mickey Thompson's engine builder, secured the rights from Per-Lux to design and sell the Ignitor for Model A's and early Ford V-8's. Mickey sold the business to FSI a number of years ago. To the best of my knowledge, there never was a Chinese version of the Ignitor. However, I was party to a lot of testing with the Big 3 Japanese motorcycle factories using an Ignitor prior to OE electronic ignition being standard. I've been using them in Model A's, classic cars and boats for over fifty years with a single failure that was self inflicted. One of my A's has one of the first Remund distributors and the other one has an FSI system. Replaced the Prince of Darkness distributor in my Jag with a Petronix!

[MattN]

While on the topic of converting old hitachi dizzy distributors I found a new clone of the old points style fitted with an igniter. One could revert to points or use the cross reference numbers to locate a "Datsun B210" distributor REF https://www.hot-spark.com/1-HS-HIT4-Distributor.htm

[AzBob]

While on this topic, I would like to mention that the 1970's to early 1980's Honda Civic distributors Corley used are getting hard to find and the prices have gone up on them since his conversion. Datsun B210 Hitachi distributors described by MattN may make a good option.


Photo below of my 1979 Honda Civic Distributor conversion. Went with the points version. Easy to troubleshoot.

[AzBob]

MattN, Hope this helps.
distributorH2.jpg

[MattN]

Originally Posted by AzBob

MattN, Hope this helps.
Attachment 495370

Perfect then cross pin it with a sleeve and go!

[MattN]

Originally Posted by AzBob

MattN, Hope this helps.
Attachment 495370

What is the ID of the 0.25 groove?