Oil Return Pipe Gaskets

[Dick Deegan]

I am currently doing some work on my engine - changing head gasket, resurfacing the head to ensure flatness, valve work etc. I always install new gaskets when I remove and re install the oil return pipe.

Much to my surprise, when I received my order today my supplier had sent O rings instead of the traditional flat cork gaskets.

Any one ever use O rings in this application? O rings normally need to be secured in a grove etc in order to not move around and maintain stability. I am afraid that the O rings will migrate into the open part of the pipe and lead to a large oil leak.

What do you think?

Dick

[2manycars]

I agree.

[Dennis Haag]

I have used O rings for years with no problems or leaks.

[Kurt in NJ]

I have several old sets, and used to have "NOS" ,they were compressed paper---about 3/32 thick, the later sets came with cork ---those I threw away, they don't fit well compared to originals, if you pick an o-ring that fits tight enough to stay on it should stay in position. ---I would use an o-ring before I used cork

The same goes for the side cover gaskets, the original ones were also a thick paper, about the thickness of the backing of a notepad, but seem to be a paper more like a manilla folder ---I bought a package of 10 nos many years ago ---no leak problems using them, and they don't squish out like cork.

[wrndln]

If you do you the cork rings that come in the kit for the oil return pipe gaskets, should any sealer, like Permatex be used? Also, how many ft-lbs should the bolt be tightened?
Thanks for any information.
Rusty Nelson

[kenparker]

Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements)

I have used O Rings from the local hardware store for years now. Never had a problem much less a leak. ken

[Dick Deegan]

Rusty;

I have always doped at least one side of the cork gasket with Permatex #2 - usually the engine side. No leaks, but I may reverse my initial thoughts and try the O rings after reading some of the above posts.
Dick Deegan

[columbiA]

Dont use a torque wrench on the return pipe bolts! I just use a short 3/8" ratchet & use common sense when U tighten them. Tighten them to much & you are liable to break the center out of the block or v-cover.As for O rings,they will work OK.

[wrndln]

Thanks, Dick. I might try some O rings as they seem to be the "in" thing now. I know that the valve cover oil drain bolt hole is quite fragile as I have seen many with cracks in the three webs. I have not seen any problems with the engine block oil drain hole, but I guess if some gorilla over tightened it big time, it might break.
Rusty Nelson

[Charles Reese]

The 2011 revision of the JS states that, from start to mid-’29, the oil return pipe gasket was “asbestos/copper clad (only copper visible)”. Anyone know of a source (other than the bottom of a swap meet box) of these gaskets?

[MikeK]

Originally Posted by Charles Reese

The 2011 revision of the JS states that, from start to mid-’29, the oil return pipe gasket was “asbestos/copper clad (only copper visible)”. Anyone know of a source (other than the bottom of a swap meet box) of these gaskets?

Try wrapping the standard fiber gaskets with copper foil tape. You can get it in craft and stained glass supply places. You may have to round off the edges of the fiber and burnish it down a bit.

[2manycars]

Originally Posted by MikeK

Try wrapping the standard fiber gaskets with copper foil tape. You can get it in craft and stained glass supply places. You may have to round off the edges of the fiber and burnish it down a bit.

My girlfriend and I do stained glass, and I will send a strip of copper foil to anyone who sends a stamped envelope.