1930-31 coupe body on 29 frame

[james.heider]

I have a friend that has a completely restored 29 frame and would like to put a 30 or 31 coupe body on that frame. Will it fit and what would need to be changed?

Thanks

[Jim Brierley]

I'm not sure but think it will bolt right on? There are minor differences, like the e-brake cross-shaft but nothing major that I know of.

[George Miller]

The body will fit, but the radiator will set to high.

[Bob C]

He will have to change the front cross member. As George said the radiator will sit to high.

Bob

[Purdy Swoft]

You won't have to change the front crossmember. If it is a late 29 the crossmember may be the same as a 1930, otherwise you will have to add shims under the body bolts to raise the body so that it will match the height of the radiator. The emergency brake lever was mounted on the right side of the gearshift lever around July 29 and remained the same until end of production. If the running gear is earlier you will need a later transmission tower and emergency brake lever if you want it to look right. The early emergency brake cross shaft remained in production (use) untill at least March 1930, maybe a little longer and will still work with either style emergency brake lever. The earlier oval speedometer and cable remained untill at least June 1930. The bumpers and front bumper brackets are different for 1929 models.

[Marco Tahtaras]

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The front cross member DOES need to be replaced (except for late '29) or altered considerably. If you tried to compensate by raising the body (which has side effects) you would also have to cut the front fenders around the radiator mounts as with the proper frame the edges of those mounts tuck under the edge of the fenders but can't in the proposed configuration. In addition to the problems with the cross member, you will have to drill the frame for the relocated hood latches. The rear hood latch brackets are smaller and only one screw will fasten securely unless you add onto the bracket for the rear most screw.

It would be a shame to cobble up something decent just to "make it work".

[Purdy Swoft]

Here is a picture of a december 1930 pickup body mounted on a november 1928 running gear. The 1928 front crossmember had the higher mounting pads where the radiator mounts, same as the earlier 1929 crossmember. I did have to elongate the mounting holes where the radiator mounts. I also had to drill for the relocated hood latches but this was no big problem There was NO modifications needed for the front fenders. The body only had to be shimmed up a small amount and had NO real side effects. The early radiator mounting pads are only a fraction of an inch higher but the body does require shimming for alignment.

This wouldn't have been my choice. I did this one on a barter deal with an older guy in his eighties.The guy had always wanted a 30-31 pickup. The guy had completely dismantled a late 30 AA truck and a late 28 leather back four door in years past. He asked if I could build him a pickup out of the parts that he had. I told him that I could but he would have to come up with a bed, rear fenders, splash aprons and running boards.. He agreed, furnished the parts and here is the results. It wouldn't get anywhere in national judgeing but we didn't think that it was a cobbled up job . He furnished the Rustoleum paint that he wanted me to paint it with. We think that it turned out pretty good and though it isn't correct model A color he has won trophies at a few parking lot car shoes. Oh yes we had to also drill some holes in the back side of the center crossmember to mount the later style brake light switch. I made a template of one of my frames for the brake lite switch and it worked out good.

[Purdy Swoft]

Another view.

[Purdy Swoft]

A larger pic of the passenger side.

[Purdy Swoft]

Here is a pic with the owner at the throttle, he was a happy man. The rustoleum paint job had a good gloss, notice the running board reflection in the door!!

[Marco Tahtaras]

Originally Posted by Purdy Swoft

Here is a picture of a december 1930 pickup body mounted on a november 1928 running gear. The 1928 front crossmember had the higher mounting pads where the radiator mounts, same as the earlier 1929 crossmember. I did have to elongate the mounting holes where the radiator mounts. I also had to drill for the relocated hood latches but this was no big problem There was NO modifications needed for the front fenders. The body only had to be shimmed up a small amount and had NO real side effects. The early radiator mounting pads are only a fraction of an inch higher but the body does require shimming for alignment.

Are you saying that your frame has the radiator mounting bosses like the '29 frames instead of the slightly lower ones found on most 1928 frames? Those '28 frames buy you about another 1/8" which could almost clear if you don't put anti-squeak pads under the radiator and use thick anti-squeak frame webbing under the fenders and aprons.

I didn't think of a pickup cab which buys some additional flexibility. With a passenger body it's a little tougher (but doable) to raise the front only and have the body taper down to normal at the rear so the rear fenders still fit up snug to the body when bolted to the running boards.

[Richard Wilson]

Good job on the truck Purdy. Many times here in the South we make do with the stuff that we have.

[Purdy Swoft]

Originally Posted by Marco Tahtaras

Are you saying that your frame has the radiator mounting bosses like the '29 frames instead of the slightly lower ones found on most 1928 frames? Those '28 frames buy you about another 1/8" which could almost clear if you don't put anti-squeak pads under the radiator and use thick anti-squeak frame webbing under the fenders and aprons.

I didn't think of a pickup cab which buys some additional flexibility. With a passenger body it's a little tougher (but doable) to raise the front only and have the body taper down to normal at the rear so the rear fenders still fit up snug to the body when bolted to the running boards.

The frame was a november 1928 with matching engine numbers . The front crossmember appeared to be original and was riveted in place so we think it was the original for the nov. 28 car. I didn't use any pads under the radiator because that would have caused the cab to have to be shimmed even higher. No frame welting was used because George, the owner said that he needed to save all that he could and it didn't need it.

[Purdy Swoft]

Originally Posted by Richard Wilson

Good job on the truck Purdy. Many times here in the South we make do with the stuff that we have.

Thanks Richard!! We did have fun with the project and it is holding up well after four years. George had it in the Christmas parade and the urethane activated rustoleum paint looks good. We hand rubbed it with compound a few days after painting to make it look more like lacquer.

[George Miller]

Nice looking truck. I'm using a 1928 frame on my 1930 pickup, but lowered the radiator pads to the same height as a 1930. The frame was not real good any way. The cab was really bad. So I do not feel like I'm hurting any thing using the wrong year frame.

[Purdy Swoft]

Thanks George, The truck we did had been apart since the early sixties and the cab was off of a double A truck. We put it together the way the guy wanted it with stainless headlamps and radiator shell.If we hadn't assembled it it probably would never been a running model A again. It was mostly a sixty year collection of parts that the guy had.