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#1 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Utica, MI
Posts: 361
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I tried calling Bob Drake but got tired of waiting on hold. The water pumps on my truck have a casting that says DCM 8504 and DCM 8503. Bob Drake has some pumps listed but their part numbers are 8RT 8501 and 8502, as well as 78-8501 and 8502. The site says they are for use with 49-53 engines going into earlier vehicles, which is exactly what I have. Would these pumps work? Thanks.
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#2 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Yakima Washington
Posts: 913
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Yes the 8RT's will work if you have a 32-47 pickup.
$ 99.50 is a good deal. Bill |
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#3 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Utica, MI
Posts: 361
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Thanks. Also, can anyone tell me what the difference is between the parts are? I know physically they look different, but is there any real reason to order one or the other?
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#4 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Kokomo, Indiana
Posts: 1,731
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Three differences: 1) width of belt groove (3/8" vs 5/8') 2) Distance from gasket surface of pump to belt groove ('48 and earlier pulleys are closer to the pump body than '49 and later account front mounted distributor) 3) Heater return line fitting (heater return can be fitted to right hand pump instead of cutting a hole in the lower radiator hose). Hope this helps.
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#5 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Kokomo, Indiana
Posts: 1,731
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Forgot one. Early pumps have lubricated bushings and late pumps have sealed bearings.
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#6 | |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Queen Creek AZ
Posts: 519
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Quote:
Frenchy |
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#7 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: San Antonio, Texas
Posts: 17,410
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PhoenixFear
Are you sure you pumps have DCM or is that 0CM? The 0CM pump is for the 50/51 Mercury. The Mercury pumps will set an 8BA type motor lower in the frame if a person doesn't use the special offset mounting spacer U-plates that the Mercury cars of 50/51 had. If you have Merc pumps you will have to get them rebuilt or rebuild them yourself since none of them are currently being reproduced. |
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#8 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Utica, MI
Posts: 361
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I'll double-check the stampings. Basically I believe this is a '53 engine in a '33 truck. The engine mounts are not a good type which I plan on redoing. They do not have the spacers I do not think, they are just bolted to the inside of the frame and use the rubber donuts to hold the engine up.
One of the pumps has a different pulley than the other, one has a dome type and the other has more of a flat type. Would I still be able to use one of these Bob Drake pumps since I plan on redoing the mounts anyway? |
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#9 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: B.C. Canada
Posts: 1,746
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You need the 49-52 8BA pick-up water pumps & the "U" shaped spacers to fit 8BA engine to 32-34 cars & 32-36 trucks.The mount adapters are #41A 6023 in Ford parts book but are easily made up.
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#10 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Suth'N Maine
Posts: 2,010
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If I had a pair of original h2o pump's I would have them re-built by Skip. I would "fear" using a re-man. not made in the USA.
Have fun when those bolt holes don't line up ![]() |
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#11 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Near Rising Sun, Maryland
Posts: 10,876
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Those U shaped spacers are being repoped and are inexpensive. Speedway and Bob Drake are two good sources.
As far as water pumps, I am also a fan of having a set of originals rebuilt by Skip Haney. American parts rebuilt in America and guaranteed to work.
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John "Never give up on what you really want to do. The person with big dreams is more powerful than one with all the facts". Albert Einstein |
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#12 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Florida and Penna.
Posts: 4,471
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Here's a picture of the mounts we made for Skip's 34 P/U. These rise the engine about 2"s and offset each side 1" for a total of 2"s wider. G.M.
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#13 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Utica, MI
Posts: 361
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I'll check what I have but at the moment the mounts I have are just bolted into the frame, no spacers or anything other than the mounts and rubber donuts. I plan on changing that setup soon though.
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#14 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Napier, New Zealand
Posts: 2,001
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I have Drakes pumps, and they fitted and perform perfectly. In fact I prefer them to originals because I can get a decent tension on the belt without worrying about slogging out the bushes.
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#15 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Utica, MI
Posts: 361
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Here are the pumps I pulled off. One of the pumps has a higher pulley than the other, not sure if that is supposed to be like that or not but it is.
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Here are pics of the mounting area. ![]() ![]() |
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#16 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: SLC Utah
Posts: 808
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PF - I'm thinking those are '51 or '52 Merc passenger pumps.
Offset because one runs off generator/crank, the other runs off fan/crank. There might be a Merc crank hiding in there...
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#17 | |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Yakima Washington
Posts: 913
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The bolt hole problem has been corrected. I've got a pair on mine and they fit and work great. Bill |
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#18 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Utica, MI
Posts: 361
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Unfortunately I didn't have a Merc crank in this engine. Got Mercury EAC heads, but the crank I had done was a Ford crank.
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#19 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Utica, MI
Posts: 361
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So can I run these Bob Drake pumps? I looked at my C&G catalog and the pumps they list say to use with a newer flathead going into an older vehicle, spacers required and rear sump conversion.
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#20 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Florida and Penna.
Posts: 4,471
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Look at the pictures of Skips P/U and your pumps. The bottom of Skips mounting pad is even with the top of the water inlet. Your pumps show the pad 2"s or so from the water inlet. Plus there is 2" overall width differance in your frame holes and the pad holes. G.M.
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