|
Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements) |
|
![]() |
Thread Tools | Display Modes |
![]() |
#1 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Quincy CA
Posts: 752
|
![]() Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements)
If you've never replaced wheel bearings, you might want to watch the whole thing. It's pretty long, though. I fast forwarded a couple minutes at a time and picked up on some particular parts that will be of interest even to the old pros. Watch for a minute or so at 6:00, at 18:15, and at 51:45 for some good bits of info. Wheel bearing adjustment is covered between about 1:00:00 through 1:06:00. The next 8 minutes or so after that is a discussion of failure causes. The Timken-recommended adjustment procedure is pretty much just a slightly more sophisticated version of the method most posters suggest here on the forum: Get 'em pretty tight, then back off until the cotter goes in. Preload is discussed in terms of how tight to get the bearing before final adjustment, but it is very clear that the bearing assembly MUST have clearance, not preload, after the final adjustment. In the section on bearing failure, they discuss how lubrication failure can be caused by preloading tapered bearings. DO NOT preload your Model A wheel bearings!!! Joe
__________________
1929 Tudor since 1962 Feather River A's Last edited by JoeWay; 07-11-2012 at 11:11 AM. |
![]() |
![]() |
Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements) |
|
|
|
Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements) |
|