tighten rear axle nut

[sethkestenbaum]

It was suggested that I tighten the rear axle nuts on my 1929 to 100-110 lbs. I've put the car on jacks, removed the rear wheels, and removed the cotter pins.

What is the correct proceedure to tighten the nuts? When I go to tighten the castle nut, the axle turns (so I am probably missing something here). Any guidance would be helpful. Thanks.

Seth

[Patrick L.]

Apply Parking brake ?? You might also be able to remove the hub cap, install a wheel and set it on the floor just enough to keep the wheel from turning..

[Napa Skip]

With the opposite wheel mounted and on the floor, I thread an acorn wheel stud nut back onto a wheel stud in the 3 o'clock position, place a 2x4 of the appropriate length between this stud and the floor, and tighten the axle nut to 100 ft-lbs + whatever is necessary to align the castellations with the cotter pin hole. As recommended elsewhere on this forum, check the torque after about 100 miles and re-torque if necessary.

[Tom Endy]

Place a length of 2X4 under a brake drum stud on the down side of the direction you are torquing.

Tom Endy

[28ACoupe]

Leave the wheel on the hub and remove the hubcap. Have someone in the car to step on the brakes.

[sethkestenbaum]

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I am now using a 2x4 against the lug nut/stud. The brakes are set using a piece of wood cut as a brake adjusting tool..... my torque wrench apparently doesn't go to 110 lbs. Any rules of thumb if I just use a tire iron to do the tightening?

Seth

[Tom F OHIO]

Originally Posted by sethkestenbaum

It was suggested that I tighten the rear axle nuts on my 1929 to 100-110 lbs. I've put the car on jacks, removed the rear wheels, and removed the cotter pins.

What is the correct proceedure to tighten the nuts? When I go to tighten the castle nut, the axle turns (so I am probably missing something here). Any guidance would be helpful. Thanks.

Seth

For the back wheels couldnt you just put it in gear???

[Napa Skip]

Seth - the short answer to the “rule of thumb” question is get a torque wrench with a (for example) 0 to 150 ft-lb range. They’re not that expensive and – as concerns axle nuts and such – probably worth the cost.

[There will no doubt be posts to this thread in the (apologies to Alfonso Bedoya, “Gold Hat” in “The Treasure of The Sierra Madre” staring Humphrey Bogart, Walter Huston and Tim Holt) “Torque wrenches? We don’t got no torque wrenches; we don’t need no stinkin’ torque wrenches!” vein, but I would ignore them.]

The longer answer is that there is a way to extend the range of torque wrenches as illustrated in the “Snap-on Torque Computer” (Snap-on Form No. SS-306A. copyright 1965 by the Perrygraf Corp. of Maywood IL) that I obtained who-knows-where when I was a practicing engineer. This is principally for use of extensions, off-sets and crows feet with a torque wrench, and involves figuring the effective length between the item being torqued and the torque wrench handle pivot point, essentially based on the "100 lbs exerted 1 foot from the nut/bolt receives the same torque as 50 lbs exerted 2 feet from the nut/bolt" concept.

But I think the short answer approach is better.

Whatever you do, don’t fall for the “spot torque” response I got from one of the individuals I worked with years ago when I was chief engineer of a nuclear power plant. I was walking through the shielded tunnel one morning during a valve operation and inquired if the operator had the correct torque information for the primary reactor system valve he was operating (always a sensitive subject on reactor plants). His response was “No problem, Eng - we’re spot torquing this valve.” When I “bit” and asked what spot torquing involved, he responded – with a straight face – “Just pull on the torque wrench with both hands until you see spots before your eyes.”

Don’t spot torque Model A axle nuts…

[Bruce Adams]

I use the 2 X 4 technique, though I find a 1 X 3 easier.
Low cost torque wrenches ($10) are available at Harbor freight.
A study by Consumers found them to be as accurate over the long run as Snap-On and Craftsman.

I am glad we closed down Long Island's Shoreham Nuclear Plant since it was staffed with "Spot On" workmen doing nut torque tightening as described earlier in this thread.
They were using "Grade 8" and "Stainless" hardware that was really cheap trash. Its a shame sometimes those we trust give in to money over meeting their responsibility.

[Bill Steiner]

I put a long pry bar between two studs and lower the car so it touches the floor. I know a lot won't agree with me but I like them tight. I go 140 to 150 lb. No argument , Just my opinion. Bill

[tbirdtbird]

I have seen many an axle thread stripped from going to 100 pounds. If you look at torque tables for that size thread you will see 100 is too high.
I never go more than 90. Your mileage may vary. And yes check them every so often like every 1K miles.

[Mike V. Florida]

Originally Posted by sethkestenbaum

I am now using a 2x4 against the lug nut/stud. The brakes are set using a piece of wood cut as a brake adjusting tool..... my torque wrench apparently doesn't go to 110 lbs. Any rules of thumb if I just use a tire iron to do the tightening?

Seth

There were no torque wrenches back then.

[Mitch//pa]

they did it just like i do it now until my wrist clicks
the mans way

[Ron in Quincy]

I torque to 90 lbs plus what ever additional is necessary to install cotter key. Have never had a problem and even after checking after 500 miles have never found one has loosed up. Just my opinion.

Ron

[aaron griffey]

I have replaced more than a dozen rear axles on early Fords because the owner or mechanic insisted on just leaving the nut finger tight.
On V8 it will shear the key but a T or an A it will most likely just wear the keyway wider.
I am replacing a model A axle right now because it is so badly worn in the tapered area and the keyway is about a half inch wide.
The rear hub is also ruined.
100 ft. lbs. is enough but I would not say bad things about anyone that goes even tighter.

[Tom Endy]

When I am torquing rear axle nuts, or drive shaft nuts, which are the same size, I set my torque wrench at 90 lbs and tighten until it clicks. Then I tighten it some more until the castle nut lines up with the cotter pin hole. The end result is usually between 90 and 120 lbs, which I think is adequate. 140-150 I think is a little too much. I would worry about damaging threads at that high of a torque.

Tom Endy

[sethkestenbaum]

Great stuff guys. I will follow these guides.