|
Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements) |
|
![]() |
![]() |
Thread Tools | Display Modes |
|
![]() |
#1 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Texas
Posts: 137
|
![]()
I've used Ted's Floaters on two Model A's. In one case the results were good; in the other, not so much.
I'm now working on a comprehensive restoration of a 1930 Town Sedan. The brake system will be all new: new cast iron drums, new shoes, new everything. Drums are turned and shoes are arched to the drums. No compromises! That being the case, is there any advantage to installing Ted's Floaters in this system? If so, specifically what is the advantage? I'm thinking there's no reason to use the floaters. But if I'm wrong, please tell me why. Thanks. |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#2 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: B.C. Canada
Posts: 1,746
|
![]()
A properly rebuilt original brake system will stop the car very well.Teds Floaters will stop the car just as well,but with reduced pedal pressure,and at my age I like the floaters as well as a longer clutch release lever.
|
![]() |
![]() |
Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements) |
|
![]() |
#3 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Anaheim California
Posts: 562
|
![]()
With a complete new brake system, USE IT.
If you aren't happy with them later, then think about Flat Head Teds mods. Richard Anaheim CA |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#4 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Didsbury Alberta
Posts: 838
|
![]()
A knowledgable friend of mine suggested to go with the original system for awhile to seat everything, then install the Ted's Floaters on the front wheels first, again using the car for 100 miles or so, then install the floaters on the rear wheels. Town Sedans are heavy cars. They need all the help we can provide for a safe stop.
|
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#5 | |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Posts: 3,099
|
![]() Quote:
__________________
http://www.abarnyard.com/ |
|
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#6 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Posts: 3,099
|
![]() Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements)
The bottom line is it depends on your skills and possibly luck. Shoe centering is by far the largest issue and many folks that believe they have done so are close at best. That isn't to say that nobody succeeds, just that I haven't seen such an example yet. BTW, I have no need or use for the addition. It's important to note that I drive my cars aggressively in city traffic.
__________________
http://www.abarnyard.com/ |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#7 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2010
Posts: 516
|
![]()
My suggestion order direct from ted. They are the best. I tried the ones sold using flat head teds name not as good. When properly installed they are great.
|
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#8 | |
Senior Member
|
![]() Quote:
with Jerry I have four model a all with Teds system. BTW go with the deluxe kit form teds stay away form the standard |
|
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#9 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Anchorage, Alaska
Posts: 9,192
|
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#10 |
Senior Member
|
![]()
Since we are on the subject I will add a few more comments , ,One other thing to consider is to make sure your rollers fit in the cut outs in the stamping and the shoes don't flop over .the springs needs to be attached from the rear I realize floaters may not be for every one ,but if you can perceiver then you can get good results .I had a British car in the shop.(Pict ) the other day and the concept of the floating brake was pressed home to me .I noticed the lower actuater (in this case a push pull device ) had a floater built in to it but was seized up, by freeing this and adding somthing to the top we got excellent brakes (C)FHT ,Yes Snyder's and Macs carry my products[QUOTE=CarlG;395671]When I bought mine, Ted said just to order them from Snyders
Last edited by FlatheadTed; 04-14-2012 at 02:13 PM. |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#11 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Kansas City
Posts: 202
|
![]()
I've had the Ted's kit for several years now and they work great. My wife drove (and won) our club's car games with our Tudor and she made an impression on all when she locked the car up once and screeching to a halt.
|
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#12 | |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Eastern Tennessee
Posts: 11,972
|
![]() Quote:
![]() . |
|
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#13 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2010
Posts: 516
|
![]()
Confused, you always amase me with your post. The post was as simple as a.b.c .
|
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#14 | |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Eastern Tennessee
Posts: 11,972
|
![]() Quote:
My point (--just like others have elluded to above) is that for those of us who have correctly operating 'as-originally manufactured' brakes, they already will slide all four wheels under severe braking. Therefore what is the point or benefit? Repair/restore what it was when it was originally manufactured and see how well they work. As far as requiring less pedal effort, remove a spring from each brake shoe on a stock braking system and I find it will do the same as a F/H Ted system. As simple as "a.b.c.". What do you suppose made the difference? |
|
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#15 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Rock Hill, S.C.
Posts: 985
|
![]()
I have yet to understand the fascination with 'floaters'. There may be an advantage, I just do not understand the necessity.
As Marco stated, centering the shoes in the drums is the best single issue, but I also think that matching the length and the taper on the actuating pins helps along with a detailed effort to minimize the clearance at the clevis pins and especially making sure that each actuating lever is approaching vertical at the same time is important. This maximizes the leverage and minimizes the pedal pressure required for effective brakes. I made centering tools in a manner that allows the use of a feeler gauge to determine clearance more closely and I also re-arch the steel brake shoe (in a hydraulic press) after the lining is in place (and also use a feeler gauge). This allows me full use of the entire thickness of the pads and extends the shoe life, and I find that I am able to get a better fit than having them turned. I am actually able to measure the actual fit to the specific drum. Not giving instructions here, just offering a different perspective!
__________________
Uncle Bud says "too soon old, too late smart!" |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#16 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: West Hammond, Illinois
Posts: 2,852
|
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#17 | |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Northern New Jersey
Posts: 1,262
|
![]() Quote:
e·lud·ed, e·lud·ing, e·ludes 1. To evade or escape from, as by daring, cleverness, or skill: The suspect continues to elude the police. 2. To escape the understanding or grasp of: a name that has always eluded me; a metaphor that eluded them. al·lud·ed, al·lud·ing, al·ludes To make an indirect reference: Last edited by Mikeinnj; 04-11-2012 at 07:47 PM. |
|
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#18 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Eastern Tennessee
Posts: 11,972
|
![]()
While I thought I had been corrected above I will say Thanks for your spelling too Mike. Evidently my spell checker was OK with the way I spelled. Thanks again.
|
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#19 |
Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Gilbertsville KY
Posts: 82
|
![]()
Save your money ! Took the set off mine after about three years . Got tired of them pulling screeching and grabbing . No such problems with the standard set up . Also noticed most of the roller pins are undersize in the shaft size by .005 or so and that causes you to have to build up the tracks by an extra .010 or .015 . Brattons has the best as far as size is conserned . I ordered from three sources and Brattons were the correct shaft size. I have done about a dozen complete brake jobs so this is not my first rodeo. I have a jig I use in the mill and can get the tracks within a couple thousands of each other. Apparently otherpeople are satisfied with them but I was not. Bubby Sharp in KY
|
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#20 |
Senior Member
|
![]()
[Comparing my pins picture , (1) ,My squire Pin .Pic (2) My round pin .Pic (3) Snyder's pin .(4) Gold square pin (5) Stock Ford Issue .Measuring the unworn part ,They mesure the same as mine .I dont deal with Bratton .
QUOTE=Bubby Sharp in KY;395787]Save your money ! Took the set off mine after about three years . Got tired of them pulling screeching and grabbing . No such problems with the standard set up . Also noticed most of the roller pins are undersize in the shaft size by .005 or so and that causes you to have to build up the tracks by an extra .010 or .015 . Brattons has the best as far as size is conserned . I ordered from three sources and Brattons were the correct shaft size. I have done about a dozen complete brake jobs so this is not my first rodeo. I have a jig I use in the mill and can get the tracks within a couple thousands of each other. Apparently otherpeople are satisfied with them but I was not. Bubby Sharp in KY[/QUOTE] Last edited by FlatheadTed; 04-05-2012 at 05:31 AM. |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
|
|
Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements) |
|