Looking for some performance modifications for my late '31

[Turkey Broth Trading]

Greetings all;

I'm new here and hoping to find some sound advice. Many folks told me this was a good site and it surely is a wealth of knowledge.

Here's my story:

A couple years back I purchased a late 1931 Tudor from a friend. The chassis was finished and ready to install on the near finished body. Well, as things turn out, my chassis was far from being (properly) completed. As of now, I have nearly redone the entire brake system, changed both axle shafts, four new cast drums, 10 linings, shafts and installed new king pins, etc. You get the point!

Seeing that the brakes were not up to snuff, I decided to pull the head. Once again, I bought the car with the understanding the engine was "fresh". Upon pulling the head, one stud had pulled from the block, so I am glad I took this step. Then it seemed as though the pistons (.040) were washed so I decided to removed the engine. Well, the bores are perfect, the rings are badly worn. One piston fell out of the bore on it's own. I will assume that the hone was to coarse and scrubbed the rings away? Bearings check out perfect. Rear main is drier than a popcorn fart. Has adjustable valves and fibre gear. Valves look new, not stainlees steel. All looks good, save and except the rings and pulled stud. These are all items that are no problem to tackle. One other thing is that the oil sump was nearly plugged from the generous amount of silicone that squeezed off the pan gasket.

Here's the meat of my thread:

What would be acceptable modifications to improve performance with out trying to make it in to a "Hot Rod"? I want a daily driveable car and not wanting to spoil the look or appeal of the original car. I would like mods that could be changed back if ever need be also.

Here are some of my thoughts. I see threads about a "B" grind camshaft picking up nearly 8 BHP. Lightening the flywheel seems to make sense also. Would any transmission modifications be worth the investment? What about an F-1 steering box?

Any and all input would be appreciated. Take it easy on me, I'm new in these parts. I am not wanting to make the car into something it isn't or to change the appeal of original car, but to freshen it up a bit.

Thanks for taking the time to read this and hoping to get a reply or two.

Craig
Berlin Center, Ohio

[Jordan]

Snyder high comp head, touring cam, lightened flywheel & overdrive will be your best improvements you can make to make your A more capable of driving everyday in today's world.

[Turkey Broth Trading]

Good points. I had done some work on the Snyder farm some years back and always try to spend money with folks who spend it with me.

[BRENT in 10-uh-C]

Well, lets start by considering the Model A in stock trim was many family's "daily driver" for years. Therefore if the mechanicals are returned to original specifications, you really cannot go wrong. There is a lot of reliability that Henry's engineers programed into these cars.

If you really want to change some things, then start searching posts listening to different folks who have walked the trail before you. Lots of differing opinions with differing results. Best wishes in whichever direction you go.

[Tom Wesenberg]

Adding counterweights to the crankshaft helps much to prolong the life of the babbit, and adding a 5.5 Snyder's head will be the most bang for the buck to add horsepower. I'm assuming the camshaft is good.

[pat in Santa Cruz]

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Biggest bang for the buck would be a high comp head ( probably Snyder...see discussion below) and a good cam coupled with a good muffler and bigger bore carburetor. After fooling around with several re grinds I bit the bullet and got Bill Stipes 330 cam, since I have an overdrive. It was one of those decisions where I forgot about the bite of the price as soon as I roared up hill in 3rd gear. If you plan driving without an overdrive, the .340 would develop more power at higher rpms. Snyders head and Bills cam do not alter the original appearance. If you want to stay with points and cam in the dizzy, the B point cam has more dwell and a hotter spark. Many prefer an electronic ignition, especially if you are seeking higher RPM. Of course, the bottle neck in any A engine is breathing: i.e. the small bore carburetor, which opens up another discussion because it will not appear original. Try searching this site for discussions on heads, cams, Electronic ignitions and carburetors. They are plentiful and long. The common cheapo repro muffler , if you have one, is thwarting the breathing on your engine too. An Aries will return the 7% power being robbed by the cheap muffler and it looks more original than the common cheapo.. the talk about performance just goes on and on..... have fun

[Turkey Broth Trading]

Yes, I already purchased the Aries muffler. Not sure I want to change carbs, would like to retain the original look. Still in the thinking, learning and listening stages, that's why I'm here.

Craig

[columbiA]

I would install a 5.5 or 6.0 to 1 cyl head,B cam & carb,overdrive & a lightened fly-wheel & you should be able to cruise at 60 mph & have ample power on hills.As for trans,there is nothing wrong with a rebuilt original.Part of the charm of the A is the sound of the straight cut gears & the art of double-clutching.In my A,s I rebuilt the 2-tooth steering box with needle brgs,short pitman arm & teflon cups in steering linkage & steering is the next thing to PS once you are moving.I also replaced the clutch release arm with one from a 28 multi-disc clutch,or you could buy one from the vendors.Make sure the brakes are properly rebuilt and if you wanted less pedal pressure,you could install a set of Teds Floaters.Non of these changes require the drilling of any holes As for the charging system, there is nothing wrong with the original if it is rebuilt properly.Unless you are wanting air cond,or high powered lights,there is no need for an alternator.

[pat in Santa Cruz]

the only reason I can think for an F1 steering ( which does not look stock) is if you have arthritic shoulders and need it as easy as you can get. A properly rebuilt stock A steering with shortened pittman arm, re balled spindle arms and teflon buttons in the drag link and tie rod will provide very easy steering. Regarding transmissions, I love crashboxes, learned to drive on one, so its instinct for me.. But if you have trouble learning to double clutch you could spend a lot of money getting your original box syncro'ed by Mitchell, and would probably like it. Personally, I would save the money and spend it on an overdrive.

[Turkey Broth Trading]

Not sure I'm ready to spring for an overdrive, as typical, champagne taste, beer money!

Already have done the Flathead Ted route.

I cut my teeth driving a Farmall Super "A" as a kid, which I still have. I think I'll have no problem with this "A".

How much would one shorten the pitman? Some real good ideas on the steering mods, points well taken.

Craig

[Benson]

Originally Posted by Turkey Broth Trading

Greetings all;

Bearings check out perfect. Rear main is drier than a popcorn fart. Has adjustable valves and fibre gear. Valves look new, not stainlees steel. All looks good, save and except the rings and pulled stud. These are all items that are no problem to tackle. One other thing is that the oil sump was nearly plugged from the generous amount of silicone that squeezed off the pan gasket.

Craig
Berlin Center, Ohio

With that much silicone rubber in the engine it is VERY likely that the main oil feed pipes (the rear one for sure) and/or cam oil feed tubes are plugged up and who knows where else the silicone is now or will end up stuck somewhere.

I would disassemble the engine and check ALL oil passages before the using it.


Does the Super A have the shift on the left like the Farmall Cub I drove from '53 to '61?

[Turkey Broth Trading]

Good points on the plugged oil passages. I'll check that out for sure.

Yes, all super "A's" were offset cultivator tractors with the left hand shifter. That experience came in handy when I test drove a right hand drive Ferrari 330 GT a few years back. The owner was amazed I could shift the car.

Craig

[quickchange]

Suggest you join the FAST club [email protected] Those guys have all the advise &willing to share it, Its cheep too, They put out a mag 4 times a year, also they are a MAFCA chapter, Of course join a local MAFCA chapter if you don,t already belong.
Derek from its going to rain NZ

[columbiA]

Pitman arms are usually shortened 1 1/2".Ive always shortened my own,but with the short p-arms now available from the vendors,I would go that route.

[pat in Santa Cruz]

the one piece forged short pittman arm is the way to go. The structural integrity of a welded arm depends on the skill level of the welder. Most arms need to be re balled anyway, which costs the same as a new arm.