The Ford Barn

47 flatbed · 10-22-2011, 08:35 PM

I am now convinced that these motors are garabage. After this rebuilt motor getting way hot in about 2 miles and now water in the oil its over I am throwing in the towel. Will someone please tell me why this old technology is so sought after.

jack orchard · 10-22-2011, 08:46 PM

if you build em right, they "work fine-last long time".
it is up to you to make sure they are right. stuck thermostat?

Junknshit · 10-22-2011, 09:18 PM

Something was for sure wrong, after 2 miles it shouldn't have maybe just reached something around operating temp, if that high. Put together right, they are tough old motors. Maybe I spoke too soon, without knowing, but I am assuming you mean a flatty 8.

makemc · 10-22-2011, 09:20 PM

I have put many, many trouble free miles on my garbage engine.
Im sorry for your bad luck,I know its frustrating, but these are great little
engines if its built right. just dont put a chevy in that nice ford..

quickchange34 · 10-22-2011, 09:21 PM

The word "rebuilt" means different things to different people.To some it means a set of rings. To others it means all new moving parts. Block cleaned, tested and bored. Crank turned and Balance. Rods checked. New pistons, rings and wrist pins. Cam and cam bearings. Oil pump. Rod and main bearings. Dont forget it it takes alot of time to check everything when you put it together or it will still bite you in the butt.

37ford4dr · 10-22-2011, 09:24 PM

Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements)

sorry for your misfortune, its sought after because its not a SBC

1931 flamingo · 10-22-2011, 09:49 PM

How about refreshing our memories as I know you've posted before about your troubles. What was your original problem? What did you do to rectify? What was done before this most recent failure?
Flatheads (V8's) have been around for about 79 years, so can't be all that bad.
Paul in CT

47 flatbed · 10-22-2011, 09:57 PM

Here is my list of expensive parts
block was cooked mag and machined
rods and crank balanced
new valve train springs valves retainer adj lifters
30 over pistons
all bearings, connectors and oil pump new
cam, distubitor and heads were about the only thing besides block that is old
The idea was to build an engine that I could drive on a fairly consistantly as a daily driver wasn't looking for a race car motor just a reliable daily driver. Now it neither. The truck is basically original and wanted to keep it that way double clutching and manual steering was fine by me.

47 flatbed · 10-22-2011, 10:01 PM

I drove this truck for about 3 weeks now after valve train problems. Adj lifter self adjusting. Tonight she decided to get warm then just simply puked. I noticed a bit of moisture in oil friday morning but ran fine to my shop and this moring. Tonight it just got crazy hot.

47 flatbed · 10-22-2011, 10:58 PM

I also forgot new stromberg carb, electric fuel pump and regulator radiator was pressure checked and cleaned.

Mr 42 · 10-22-2011, 11:47 PM

After checking the obvious is it really over heating or is it the gauge??
Is it stuck thermostat. is the radiator up to it?

Id never clean a radiator i have a new core installed, and a known good carburator and distributor.

Most of the time overheating is caused by not enough advanced timing.
Try to adjust the distributor for max advance and listen after ping instead.
Then back of as bit.

Then retighten the heads, put in a can of Bars Leak.
Change oil and drive

And Ford never used adjustable lifters!

But if you still convinced that the engine is a piece of garbage, let somone else have a go at it ,and put in a bellybutton sbc,

Tinker · 10-23-2011, 12:35 AM

One of the first things I do with a new car is recore the radiator. Water pumps a must too. 42 is right about timing. Just because it's new in the box doesn't mean it's timed right.

If the engine was rebuilt right and you use a crappy radiator it's doomed.

Just something as simple as a radiator cap (+7lbs) could be causing you problems.

Remember flatheads have been around for decades.

Tinker · 10-23-2011, 12:39 AM

Okay re-read. Valve trian problems, what does that mean? Also was your dizzy rebuilt and timed?

47 flatbed · 10-23-2011, 07:36 AM

When I bought this truck the first thing I did was replace water pumps. Cleaned radiator. Changed points converted to 12 volt and the old truck started from a 20+ yr sleep. Drove it for few hundred miles and could hear a little bearing noise so decided to freshen the motor had everthing pretty much dialed in to run at that point.On fresh motor had some adj lifters decide to adj themself I relapped valves in and fixed that issue and it ran awesome for less than 3 weeks then it took a big puke.

47 flatbed · 10-23-2011, 07:37 AM

42 bars leak? I think that may cause more problems then it will fix.

47 flatbed · 10-23-2011, 07:39 AM

I think before I go sbc I will do a ford motor gas or diesel. no way a chebby motor will go in there like everyone else does that kinda why this I left it in hell the truck is well more than double my age

JWL · 10-23-2011, 07:54 AM

The first place I would look would be at the head gaskets. It is very possible one has begun to leak combustion gas into the coolant system. No radiator, new or old, can exchange that much heat. If water is entering the oil from a blown head gasket you might be able to remove the sparkplugs, crank the engine, and watch for water to be forced out of a sparkplug hole.

Were the head fasteners torqued properly to no more than 50 ft. lbs? Were they re-torqued at least 2 times when engine was cold after being operated at full normal temperature? Are the head and block gasket surfaces completely flat and smooth?

chuck stevens · 10-23-2011, 08:03 AM

47 flatbed, DON'T give up. I think your best bet is to find an old timer close by that likes to get his hands dirty. If you are going to tackle it yourself, take one thing at a time. Flatheads are sensitive to ignition timing, running to lean, and when fresh sometimes the extra friction will make then run warm. Pressure test the cooling system, to find where the coolant is getting in the oil. These old v8s are as dependable as the owner makes them. I just ran my 39, stock as the day it was made, 1500 miles in 4 days the only thing that gave me trouble was the fuel pump.

jimTN · 10-23-2011, 08:17 AM

JWL has my thoughts on the head gasket thing. Do you have studs or bolts for the heads? Bolts have a way of bottoming out and not pulling the head down if the holes have not been chased. Also, the lifter thing sounds like a reground cam with std lenght adjustable lifter screws. They are too short for reground cams, proper adjustable lifters have a very thick head.

George/Maine · 10-23-2011, 08:21 AM

When I got my 39 with and 8ba engine it was running hot.Even in 30 degs weather couldn,t get 8 miles with out over heating.
I bought a new Walker Raditor and in testing with no water caused my water pump to leaks and burned my temp gauge.
I had engine out to do other things.
So i bought new waterpumps,still not runing temp gauge and running over year now with no problem.With 2 water pumps running you can push a lot of water.I,d get a new rad.

10-22-2011, 08:35 PM	#1
47 flatbed Senior Member Join Date: Feb 2011 Location: Ohio Posts: 419	Dead flathead I am now convinced that these motors are garabage. After this rebuilt motor getting way hot in about 2 miles and now water in the oil its over I am throwing in the towel. Will someone please tell me why this old technology is so sought after.

10-22-2011, 08:46 PM	#2
jack orchard Senior Member Join Date: Jun 2011 Location: summerfield florida Posts: 383	Re: Dead flathead if you build em right, they "work fine-last long time". it is up to you to make sure they are right. stuck thermostat?

10-22-2011, 09:18 PM	#3
Junknshit Banned Join Date: Oct 2011 Location: Wash. Posts: 233	Re: Dead flathead Something was for sure wrong, after 2 miles it shouldn't have maybe just reached something around operating temp, if that high. Put together right, they are tough old motors. Maybe I spoke too soon, without knowing, but I am assuming you mean a flatty 8.

10-22-2011, 09:20 PM	#4
makemc Senior Member Join Date: Dec 2010 Location: Northwest Fl. Posts: 152	Re: Dead flathead I have put many, many trouble free miles on my garbage engine. Im sorry for your bad luck,I know its frustrating, but these are great little engines if its built right. just dont put a chevy in that nice ford..

10-22-2011, 09:21 PM	#5
quickchange34 Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: charlottesville, Va. Posts: 589	Re: Dead flathead The word "rebuilt" means different things to different people.To some it means a set of rings. To others it means all new moving parts. Block cleaned, tested and bored. Crank turned and Balance. Rods checked. New pistons, rings and wrist pins. Cam and cam bearings. Oil pump. Rod and main bearings. Dont forget it it takes alot of time to check everything when you put it together or it will still bite you in the butt.

10-22-2011, 09:24 PM	#6
37ford4dr Senior Member Join Date: Jun 2011 Location: arlington va Posts: 185	Re: Dead flathead Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements) sorry for your misfortune, its sought after because its not a SBC

10-22-2011, 09:49 PM	#7
1931 flamingo Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: new britain,ct 06052 Posts: 9,428	Re: Dead flathead How about refreshing our memories as I know you've posted before about your troubles. What was your original problem? What did you do to rectify? What was done before this most recent failure? Flatheads (V8's) have been around for about 79 years, so can't be all that bad. Paul in CT

10-22-2011, 09:57 PM	#8
47 flatbed Senior Member Join Date: Feb 2011 Location: Ohio Posts: 419	Re: Dead flathead Here is my list of expensive parts block was cooked mag and machined rods and crank balanced new valve train springs valves retainer adj lifters 30 over pistons all bearings, connectors and oil pump new cam, distubitor and heads were about the only thing besides block that is old The idea was to build an engine that I could drive on a fairly consistantly as a daily driver wasn't looking for a race car motor just a reliable daily driver. Now it neither. The truck is basically original and wanted to keep it that way double clutching and manual steering was fine by me.

10-22-2011, 10:01 PM	#9
47 flatbed Senior Member Join Date: Feb 2011 Location: Ohio Posts: 419	Re: Dead flathead I drove this truck for about 3 weeks now after valve train problems. Adj lifter self adjusting. Tonight she decided to get warm then just simply puked. I noticed a bit of moisture in oil friday morning but ran fine to my shop and this moring. Tonight it just got crazy hot.

10-22-2011, 10:58 PM	#10
47 flatbed Senior Member Join Date: Feb 2011 Location: Ohio Posts: 419	Re: Dead flathead I also forgot new stromberg carb, electric fuel pump and regulator radiator was pressure checked and cleaned.

10-22-2011, 11:47 PM	#11
Mr 42 Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Sweden Posts: 427	Re: Dead flathead After checking the obvious is it really over heating or is it the gauge?? Is it stuck thermostat. is the radiator up to it? Id never clean a radiator i have a new core installed, and a known good carburator and distributor. Most of the time overheating is caused by not enough advanced timing. Try to adjust the distributor for max advance and listen after ping instead. Then back of as bit. Then retighten the heads, put in a can of Bars Leak. Change oil and drive And Ford never used adjustable lifters! But if you still convinced that the engine is a piece of garbage, let somone else have a go at it ,and put in a bellybutton sbc,

10-23-2011, 12:35 AM	#12
Tinker Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: MN Posts: 7,063	Re: Dead flathead One of the first things I do with a new car is recore the radiator. Water pumps a must too. 42 is right about timing. Just because it's new in the box doesn't mean it's timed right. If the engine was rebuilt right and you use a crappy radiator it's doomed. Just something as simple as a radiator cap (+7lbs) could be causing you problems. Remember flatheads have been around for decades.

10-23-2011, 12:39 AM	#13
Tinker Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: MN Posts: 7,063	Re: Dead flathead Okay re-read. Valve trian problems, what does that mean? Also was your dizzy rebuilt and timed?

10-23-2011, 07:36 AM	#14
47 flatbed Senior Member Join Date: Feb 2011 Location: Ohio Posts: 419	Re: Dead flathead When I bought this truck the first thing I did was replace water pumps. Cleaned radiator. Changed points converted to 12 volt and the old truck started from a 20+ yr sleep. Drove it for few hundred miles and could hear a little bearing noise so decided to freshen the motor had everthing pretty much dialed in to run at that point.On fresh motor had some adj lifters decide to adj themself I relapped valves in and fixed that issue and it ran awesome for less than 3 weeks then it took a big puke.

10-23-2011, 07:37 AM	#15
47 flatbed Senior Member Join Date: Feb 2011 Location: Ohio Posts: 419	Re: Dead flathead 42 bars leak? I think that may cause more problems then it will fix.

10-23-2011, 07:39 AM	#16
47 flatbed Senior Member Join Date: Feb 2011 Location: Ohio Posts: 419	Re: Dead flathead I think before I go sbc I will do a ford motor gas or diesel. no way a chebby motor will go in there like everyone else does that kinda why this I left it in hell the truck is well more than double my age

10-23-2011, 07:54 AM	#17
JWL Member Emeritus Join Date: May 2010 Location: Fitzgerald, Georgia Posts: 2,204	Re: Dead flathead The first place I would look would be at the head gaskets. It is very possible one has begun to leak combustion gas into the coolant system. No radiator, new or old, can exchange that much heat. If water is entering the oil from a blown head gasket you might be able to remove the sparkplugs, crank the engine, and watch for water to be forced out of a sparkplug hole. Were the head fasteners torqued properly to no more than 50 ft. lbs? Were they re-torqued at least 2 times when engine was cold after being operated at full normal temperature? Are the head and block gasket surfaces completely flat and smooth?

10-23-2011, 08:03 AM	#18
chuck stevens Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: upstate new york Posts: 758	Re: Dead flathead 47 flatbed, DON'T give up. I think your best bet is to find an old timer close by that likes to get his hands dirty. If you are going to tackle it yourself, take one thing at a time. Flatheads are sensitive to ignition timing, running to lean, and when fresh sometimes the extra friction will make then run warm. Pressure test the cooling system, to find where the coolant is getting in the oil. These old v8s are as dependable as the owner makes them. I just ran my 39, stock as the day it was made, 1500 miles in 4 days the only thing that gave me trouble was the fuel pump.

10-23-2011, 08:17 AM	#19
jimTN Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Powell, TN Posts: 2,617	Re: Dead flathead JWL has my thoughts on the head gasket thing. Do you have studs or bolts for the heads? Bolts have a way of bottoming out and not pulling the head down if the holes have not been chased. Also, the lifter thing sounds like a reground cam with std lenght adjustable lifter screws. They are too short for reground cams, proper adjustable lifters have a very thick head.

10-23-2011, 08:21 AM	#20
George/Maine Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Mid coast Maine Posts: 1,878	Re: Dead flathead When I got my 39 with and 8ba engine it was running hot.Even in 30 degs weather couldn,t get 8 miles with out over heating. I bought a new Walker Raditor and in testing with no water caused my water pump to leaks and burned my temp gauge. I had engine out to do other things. So i bought new waterpumps,still not runing temp gauge and running over year now with no problem.With 2 water pumps running you can push a lot of water.I,d get a new rad.