12 volts to 6 volts

[ronhooper]

I was wondering if anyone had thought about using a 12 volt alternator and a 12 volt battery with the original Model A starter and then using a converter from 12 volts to 6 volts to run the rest of the car. How much of a problem would it be to rewire the car to do this? I have converted one of my A's to 12 volts already but it cost a lot. I thought this approach might be cheaper.
Any thoughts or suggestions?
Ron Hooper

[Tom Wesenberg]

I've never understood the want or need to convert away from the original 6 volts, and use the original generator with an electronic voltage regulator. I'm still using this and have a junkyard battery that is at least 7 years old and still going strong. I've never had to add water to the battery and haven't touched the genrator since I rebuilt it over 10 years ago. Everything works so well that I never think to look at the ammeter other than to see if it moves when I step on my brakes. This lets me know the brake bulb is working fine. I haven't used my GPS in my Model A, but if I do, then it also works fine on 6 volts.

[Seth Swoboda]

You could run a voltage regulator to step down to 6v. It's just a little voltage drop that you can buy at NAPA.

[Paul from Maine]

Originally Posted by Tom Wesenberg

I've never understood the want or need to convert away from the original 6 volts, and use the original generator with an electronic voltage regulator. I'm still using this and have a junkyard battery that is at least 7 years old and still going strong. I've never had to add water to the battery and haven't touched the genrator since I rebuilt it over 10 years ago. Everything works so well that I never think to look at the ammeter other than to see if it moves when I step on my brakes. This lets me know the brake bulb is working fine. I haven't used my GPS in my Model A, but if I do, then it also works fine on 6 volts.

My GPS works fine on six volts, it just took a lot of electrical tape to insulate the cigarette lighter socket I bought at Wal-Mart that was designed for a negative ground vehicle.

[ford31]

what I did, local alternator rebuilder for alternator with small pulley, made brkt from rear spring shackle,bought 12 volt coil with internal resistor,higher amp amp meter,changed 6 volt bulbs to 12,not necessary but had alternator rebuilder rebuild starter changed to 12 volts,ordered from mouser electronics adjustable resistor for horn can than get sound you want

[Purdy Swoft]

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Originally Posted by ronhooper

I was wondering if anyone had thought about using a 12 volt alternator and a 12 volt battery with the original Model A starter and then using a converter from 12 volts to 6 volts to run the rest of the car. How much of a problem would it be to rewire the car to do this? I have converted one of my A's to 12 volts already but it cost a lot. I thought this approach might be cheaper.
Any thoughts or suggestions?
Ron Hooper

You mention a converter from 12 volt to 6 volt to run the rest of the car? The rest of the car would be the bulbs and a resistor to use the 6 volt coil. It seems to me that the bulbs and resistor would be cheaper than a converter. Changing to 12 volt is not rocket science, it just makes good sense and is more practical. The larger guage 6 volt wire will carry 12 volts better than the smaller guage wire without overheating. The starter will have NO problem with 12 volts and will crank the engine faster. I use the modern starter drive. The old bendix will give problems dropping bolts no matter what volt that you run but it is not necessary to change. I have used the bendix on 12 volt with no problems more than I would have on 6 volt. The original generator will charge 12 volt with NO modification. I use the Fun Projects voltage regulator that will replace the cutout. The regulator isn't necessary unless you prefer voltage regulation.

To make a long story shorter, If all systems are in good operating condition and you just want to change to 12 volt, all you will HAVE to change is the Battery, replace the bulbs with 12 volt bulbs and add a resistor to the coil. You could add a flamethrower coil for electronic ignition like preformance, like I did but it is not necessary. The original wiring will need NO changes and you can still run positive ground. If you choose to run negative ground you will need to reverse the wires behind the ammeter and re polarize the generator. Fun Projects sells can style voltage regulators in positive or negative ground.

If you change over to 12 volt in this manner, the only thing that will appear different is the battery and it is under the car and out of sight. This is an easy conversion and really doesn't cost anymore, if you need a battery and new bulbs anyway. You will get super fast starts and less expensive componets such as bulbs ,cables and 12 volt batteries are readily available anywhere.

I almost forgot but if you have an original horn you will need a resistor. Bratton sells a resistor for $22.00 or an old used coil can be rigged up as a horn resistor.

[Jerry in Shasta]

Do one or the other not both, your just asking for trouble doing both.

[hardtimes]

Originally Posted by ronhooper

I was wondering if anyone had thought about using a 12 volt alternator and a 12 volt battery with the original Model A starter and then using a converter from 12 volts to 6 volts to run the rest of the car. How much of a problem would it be to rewire the car to do this? I have converted one of my A's to 12 volts already but it cost a lot. I thought this approach might be cheaper.
Any thoughts or suggestions?
Ron Hooper

Ron,
Purdy has given some very good information which is as simpilfied as it can be stated.
I have a stock model a with stock electrical system and I have an 'improved' driver model a, with 12V system. To the NOS A wiring , I added modern bendix to old starter, helogen kits to original '30 headlights and , of course, 12V alt and helogen taillights. Oh, and 12V electronic ign module. This 12V system works flawlessly and adds to vehicle safety , in my opinion. Whereas, my stock a , which has a single factory taillight(as Henry made it) , is not as safe to drive. For instance, during our mostly bright sunny days out here, that single rear 6v lamp is hardly seen by todays fast moving traffic. Yeah, if I were fortunate to live in rural areas and/or back in time of 35mph days..well, I wouldn't have reason to change anything.
BTW..how about using those 'hand signals' of yesteryear, instead of bright 12v turn signals....just as likely to get a 'hand gesture' back ..or into an accident...because 'they' do not know about hand signals.

[jrelliott]

You do not have to change the wiring only the bulbs. The original 6V wiring harness has wiring sized to meet the power requirements of the bulbs, horn, ignition and wiper(if equiped). Going to 12Vs increases the voltage and decreases the amount of current for the same power requirements. I have a chart for all the bulbs both 6V and 12V and other electrical parts ie coil for both voltages. The chart also has all the candle powers for different bulbs that will give you brighter tail and head lights. Just remember the higher the candle power the more current it takes to get that brightness. You can use a dropping resistor for the horn and electrical windshield wiper(if you have one) or you can build an electronic regulator for dropping the voltage. If you send me your email address will send you the information plus other electrical info in a pdf format. The information for the electronic regulator can be found at http://[URL="http://www.studebaker-info.org/tech/6-12V/6-12-6.html"]www.studebaker-info.org/tech/6-12V/6-12-6.html[/URL]

[Pepsi Mechanic]

Myself ... I would simply leave it at 6 volt ... Thats what I run and I have never had any issues .... Mixing things up could cause issues down the road , and the last thing you want to do is spoil a nice day trip in your A sitting on the side of the road waiting for a tow truck

[jrelliott]

Forgot to post my email address if anyone intrested in the charts.
[email protected]

[Paul from Maine]

Originally Posted by Pepsi Mechanic

Myself ... I would simply leave it at 6 volt ... Thats what I run and I have never had any issues .... Mixing things up could cause issues down the road , and the last thing you want to do is spoil a nice day trip in your A sitting on the side of the road waiting for a tow truck

I agree. 12 volts is hard on the bendix, the starter and the flywheel ring gear. My stock 6 volt generator system with the modern regulator and a decade old six volt battery (that I even let a friend borrow for a few years) cranks the starter plenty fast, powers bright sealed beam headlights easily and powers my GPS with no adapters. Alternators stress the water pump and can drain the battery if not wired to a shut off. But to each his own. Its a free country and 12 volts does have some advantages, but I think I'll stay with six.

[Mike V. Florida]

Originally Posted by Jerry in Shasta

Do one or the other not both, your just asking for trouble doing both.

I agree, one or the other, and if money is an issue to completly changing it over to to 12 volts, leave it 6 volts. What is the cost of an inverter to change 12 to 6 volts for the 5 amps the horn takes as well all the current the bulbs take?

Makes no sense to me to have 1/2 6 and 1/2 12.