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#1 |
Junior Member
Join Date: Jun 2020
Location: Kent, CT
Posts: 24
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My '30 A coupe barely turns over & won't start. I have 6.12V at the battery. I pulled both battery terminals & cleaned them. Body Ground seems solid. Pulled starter & bench tested, works perfect. Next steps?
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#2 |
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Join Date: Sep 2022
Location: Canton, Michigan
Posts: 321
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How hard is it to turn over with the crank?
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--------------------------------------- 1929 Model A Tudor - "Darla" '29 Model A: Old enough to start with a crank, young enough to steal the show! "Stay away from negative people, they have a problem for every solution" Model A Ford Club of America Model A Restorers Club Motor City A's Club |
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#3 |
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Join Date: May 2010
Location: Southern California
Posts: 7,305
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Are your cables large enough? 6 volts uses larger diameter cables. The ones for the auto parts store are sized for 12 volts.
Charlie Stephens |
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#4 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2022
Location: Canton, Michigan
Posts: 321
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Can you tell if the cables have been replaced?
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--------------------------------------- 1929 Model A Tudor - "Darla" '29 Model A: Old enough to start with a crank, young enough to steal the show! "Stay away from negative people, they have a problem for every solution" Model A Ford Club of America Model A Restorers Club Motor City A's Club |
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#5 |
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Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: NNNNNNNNJJJJJJJJJJ
Posts: 7,647
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2nd ground to chassis?
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#6 |
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#7 |
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Location: Kent, CT
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They are quite large. Not sure if they are original, but definitely are not 12V size. It ran perfectly fine for years. It just started acting up last Summer.
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#8 |
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#9 |
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#10 |
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Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Redondo Beach, CA
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Have you done a Load Test on your battery. It may be dying. Your favorite battery store should be able to check it for you.
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#11 |
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Join Date: Jun 2014
Location: Land of Lincoln
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Load test the battery. Local auto parts stores an do the test, most likely for free, less your labor of r&r the battery
I type slower than Y - blockhead :-(
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Don't force it with a little hammer tap, tap, tap get a bigger hammer tap done |
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#12 | |
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Join Date: May 2010
Location: Illinois
Posts: 2,220
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#13 |
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Join Date: Jun 2020
Location: Kent, CT
Posts: 24
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#14 |
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#15 |
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Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Western North Carolina
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It can only be the battery, the starter motor, the starter foot switch, the wires, or the connectors. Eliminate one at a time.
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A is for apple, green as the sky. Step on the gas, for tomorrow I die. Forget the brakes, they really don't work. The clutch always sticks, and starts with a jerk. My car grows red hair, and flies through the air. Driving's a blast, a blast from the past. |
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#16 |
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Join Date: Jun 2020
Location: Kent, CT
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I have eliminated the rest, so battery it is! Will try a load test tomorrow!
Last edited by dfairty1; 07-01-2025 at 06:07 PM. |
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#17 | |
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Join Date: May 2010
Location: Clinton,WA/Whidbey Island
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#18 |
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Join Date: Sep 2022
Location: SoCal
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Harbor Freight has a cheap load tester. https://www.harborfreight.com/100-am...ter-61747.html
Also just don't check that the contacts to the frame and starter are tight. Take them apart and clean them with scotch bright. Corrosion can form between the dis similar metals increasing the resistance. |
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#19 |
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Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Davenport, Iowa
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Before pulling the battery, turn on the headlights and activate the starter with the ignition OFF. Either you or someone stand in front of the car while this is going on and see if the headlights dim way down as the starter turns. A slight dimming is normal, but if the headlights do dim noticeably and the starter turns the engine over even slower, the battery probably is weak, as has been suggested. Other than problems with the starter itself, this condition could also be caused by a bad ground, although you stated you checked that. You have also verified that the cables are the correct thickness and not auto parts store thin 12-volt cables. With a 6-volt system, good grounds (ground strap and an auxiliary cable) and the correct gauge cables are absolutely essential, something that you might skimp by on using a 12-volt battery. A 6-volt system is less forgiving.
Follow "ModelA29's" suggestion for establishing a good ground to the frame and use an external star lock washer to dig into the crossmember metal. Even though the ground here may look good, the mating area on the crossmember must be shiny down to the metal. I've been fooled by an otherwise clean-looking ground here that affected the starter's operation. Re-check this area and make sure you have the correct braided heavy-duty ground strap and that it is not frayed or corroded from battery acid. Be especially critical where the woven strap enters the attaching end. Often the two are separating from age, battery acid or over-torquing the strap at an odd angle. Although engine pans only peripherally assist in the electrical system's performance, it's one more area that Ford engineers designed to complete the electrical path throughout the car. I'm not saying a lack of engine pans will cause a starter to turn over slowly. I'm just adding that the engine pans were designed to assist in the overall charging health of a Model A. Marshall |
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#20 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Long Island, NY
Posts: 4,112
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Here is how to install a second ground to the battery.
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Bob Bidonde |
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