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#1 |
Member
Join Date: Sep 2021
Location: Friday Harbor, Washington
Posts: 49
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My '29 Roadster is running rough and doesn't have power to climb hills well. I noticed that there is oil leaking from the 2 front spark plugs, causing small bubbles.... what is the diagnosis?
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#2 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Oregon
Posts: 6,369
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Check the ignition and timing. adjust the carburetor and use new gaskets under the plugs or make sure they are tightened sufficiently.
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#3 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Clinton,WA/Whidbey Island
Posts: 4,457
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check plugs for fouled and clean or replace! Simple things first and one at a time. 3X plugs?
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www.whidbeymodelaclub.com |
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#4 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Western North Carolina
Posts: 5,850
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You will need to do some analysis to determine the problem.
Is this car new to you or have you had it for a while? Is the problem new or has it been there all along? If it is new did it come on quickly or gradually. How familiar are you the operating controls on the car. Do you know how to adjust the spark and GAV? The vendors sell the original instruction manuals that came with the car. Is the car burning oil and has a grey exhaust? Do a compression test and if the readings are low do a leak down test to find out why. Make sure all 4 plugs are firing by placing the plugs on the head with the flat brass "wires" connected and turning the engine over with the ignition on. Check the point gap. It should be 0.018 to 0.020 when the points are fully open.
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A is for apple, green as the sky. Step on the gas, for tomorrow I die. Forget the brakes, they really don't work. The clutch always sticks, and starts with a jerk. My car grows red hair, and flies through the air. Driving's a blast, a blast from the past. Last edited by nkaminar; 06-03-2025 at 01:25 PM. |
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#5 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Davenport, Iowa
Posts: 2,626
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If you changed ignition points in the last 100 miles or so, you'll think the rubbing block must be made of Chinesium these days because the distributor cam will wear it down quickly, even if you lube the distributor cam. The points gap with close down as the rubbing block wears down. You'll have to check the points gap once in a while in the first 100 miles and adjust them according to how much more the block has worn away. It will reach a point where the block won't wear anymore and then it won't be necessary to regap the points. This just happened to me last Friday in less than 40 miles on a fresh set of original style points.
Marshall |
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#6 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Oregon
Posts: 6,369
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#7 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Davenport, Iowa
Posts: 2,626
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It's a new cam with the "B" grind. The couple sets of original style points I have bought did the same thing - always needed re-adjusting in less than 50 miles, different engines, different cams.
M. |
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#8 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2015
Location: Red Deer, Alberta
Posts: 5,707
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Just because it's new doesn't mean it's up to snuff, check it, to be sure.
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If you don't hear a rumor by 10 AM, start one!. Got my education out behind the barn! |
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#9 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Oregon
Posts: 6,369
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I allways polish even new cams that are usually not to Ford specs.
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#10 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Long Island, NY
Posts: 4,110
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Your first order of diagnosis is to perform a compression test.
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Bob Bidonde |
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#11 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Marana Arizona
Posts: 1,829
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Fuel, spark, compression... Chap
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#12 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2016
Posts: 2,459
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Marshall, I think your problem is that you love driving at 7,000 rpm.
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#13 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Davenport, Iowa
Posts: 2,626
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Hmmm...'Never thought of that. I think I'll back down to around 6500 rpm and see if that extends the life of the points rubbing block. Should it glow bright red???
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