Model A Ownership: What to know?

[RemyKS]

Hello all!

I'm new to owning a Model A and hope to pick up a 31 Fordor Sedan this month or early next. I found one that had been garaged since 1955 and had only three owners. It runs, stops and has no rust, the original interior is mostly intact and so is the top.

What would you tell someone new to this that is looking to own, drive and maintain a 31 Model A for the first time? What are the pitfalls to avoid, things that people frequently get wrong or need to know? I've been reading here and soaking up as much as I can but I've been trying to figure out what it's going to be like.

I probably should have joined and asked "What to look for when buying a model A" before buying one but, for $5500 only 4 hours away I quickly worked to get a deposit and secured it. Also if anyone can refer me to a manual, guidebook or reference for repair, restoration and maintenance that would be great!

Current plan is to work on the mechanical and replace the tires (from 1955!) then as time and money allows consider reupholstery and paint.

Essentially just make sure she is a reliable runner and enjoy it for a bit!

Thanks in advance!



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[Synchro909]

Originally Posted by RemyKS

Hello all!


What would you tell someone new to this that is looking to own, drive and maintain a 31 Model A for the first time? What are the pitfalls to avoid, things that people frequently get wrong or need to know?

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My advice: Join a local club, join a forum and buy Les's book (Les Andrews or Les Pearson)

[51504bat]

Might be just me but make sure you can verity the ID number. Model A's were registered by the engine number with a corresponding number stamped on the frame UNDER the body. So unless the engine hasn't been changed in the 90+ years since the car first rolled off the assembly line you have no way of being positive that the ID number shown on the title is correct for the car itself unless you lift the body. Some states will assign a new vin number and attach it to either the body or the frame. If that's the case no problem. But if you can't match the ID number on the title to the actual car you're taking a chance. JMO

[Marshall V. Daut]

You write that the Model A you are buying is a 1931 Fordor. There were two versions in 1931: the straight windshield and the slant windshield. The slant w/s is called the "late" 1931 because it came out about May or June of that year, replacing the straight windshield body.
The reason you should be aware which body you are buying is important. The straight w/s body was built around a wooden structure, which tends to rot and deteriorate over the years. This will affect how the doors hang, open and close. Check all four doors for opening and closing properly and make sure the pillars where the hinges are screwed in are not rotting or have turned soft. Take an ice pick with you to poke around on the wood pieces, especially the large wooden sills that the body is mounted on.
If the body is a slant w/s, you can forget all the foregoing: it's built around a steel cage and only has wood in the body for tacking in upholstery panels and for the top. This makes the slant w/s body more sturdy.
Some guys like the slant w/s look, others prefer the straight windshield body. Your choice...
Marshall

[Kurt in NJ]

There is a good chance that from sitting that long there is a thick layer of sludge in the pan obscuring the oil screen and oil pump .
Unless you can verify that it is pumping oil don’t run it.
Many times it is necessary to poke a passageway through the sludge just to drain the oil.

[Richard Knight]

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Find a model A friend, model A club, a good mechanic. Read, read, read, all that you can. Don't be in a hurry to start replacing factory parts with new crap and or shinola. Depending on the milage your could have many parts that just need cleaning and a little restoration. The factory parts are always better than the after market no matter what the catalogs say. Don't be in a hurry to rip out the upholstery or anything for that matter. There far fewer good original cars than fancy restored cars that are full of gyp parts. An original car can be made to drive as well or better than fully restored cars.

[tommyleea]

Drive it before you buy it if possible. If you are not familiar with the Model A the shifting might be discouraging. If that one doesn't run find someone that owns one, and see if they will let you drive it/shift it....TommyJ

[nkaminar]

Instruction booklet can be purchased from any of the usual parts dealers.

[32Ford13]

Join a club and enjoy the journey!

[1930artdeco]

Marshall beat me to it about the wood-but here are my tips:


1) The roof is also wood and fabric and will leak more than likely due to the wood/fabric shrinking over 90 yrs. I am assuming it is original with a thick layer of dust on it.


2) MICE! be careful of the little devils leaving all sorts of debris in the roof, upholstery, engine, muffler.


3) The original 2 blade fan on the engine is a death trap waiting to happen. Replace it with a new aluminum fan or a 6 blade fan.


4) I am assuming that you have at least some basic mechanical skill here. So the Model A is designed to be greased and oiled. There are 'old style' grease fittings everywhere that take a different type of fitting. If it still has the original grease gun clean it up and lube everything and then change all of the fluids. Grease the bearings too.


5) Flush the Radiator and then after the third or fourth time put a screen in the upper hose to catch what you didn't get with the flushes.


6) Rebuild the brakes, flush the fuel system and add a pencil filter to the tank, rebuild the carb and add another filter to the bowl (I used a rare earth magnet).




These should plus all of the other tip get you started. And welcome to the club!


Mike

[rotorwrench]

I downloaded an owner's instruction book but it is early in the 1928/29 time frame. Most things are the same as far as operating and servicing are concerned. The Fordor cars were made by subcontractors such as Briggs and Murray so body stuff is a little different that that from Ford but Ford supplied them with fuel tanks and some of their steel.

Les Andrews published a Mechanics Handbook volume I and it is a good maintenance manual to have. Get yourself a CD of the Ford Model A service bulletins for good information. The Volume II Les published is more of a body book but it's good for the bodies he covered.

The Fordor models were mostly wood frame with sheet metal tacked on so they take a lot of care to keep them out of the sun and the elements when not in use. Wood deterioration is a big problem with all but the slant windshield models made in late 1931 so if it's an early 31 then take good care of it and it will take care of you. They are great for a person that has a family and wants to share their enthusiasm. They were rather luxurious compared to the Tudors and Coupes. They are much more expensive to restore than those other models so if your interest in a well used one should concern the condition of that old wood. Solid wood will stay that way but rotten wood will have to be replaced at some point. If the car is good then that is a very good price for it.

PS: other books that are very good to have for the hobby are the Restorer series of books put out by MAFCA. I think there are 10 or 11 volumes by now. They are available from most parts suppliers or direct from the club. MARC and MAFCA are both very good clubs and may have regional groups near you.

[al's28/33]

Congrats on your upcoming custodianship. Be prepared for expenses that will drain your pockets, but remember the end goal, love of the hobby and keep your "A" safely on the road.

[nkaminar]

Safety first. Working horn, lights, brakes, etc. Add bright turn indicators, inside and outside mirrors on both sides, emergency supplies like flares. Good tires without cracks. Steering in good shape. Etc., etc., etc.

[RemyKS]

Originally Posted by nkaminar

Safety first. Working horn, lights, brakes, etc. Add bright turn indicators, inside and outside mirrors on both sides, emergency supplies like flares. Good tires without cracks. Steering in good shape. Etc., etc., etc.

Thanks for the info!

And fire extinguisher! The gas tank right in front of me doesn't bother me now, but, when I had my Ford GPW or was originally worried about the tank being under the driver's seat!

Speaking of safety I'm wondering about the rules and take on seatbelts. Thoughts?

I think someone has some tires for sale here, a full four and a spare, Firestone for a decent price. Just wish they were closer.

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[RemyKS]

Originally Posted by 51504bat

Might be just me but make sure you can verity the ID number. Model A's were registered by the engine number with a corresponding number stamped on the frame UNDER the body. So unless the engine hasn't been changed in the 90+ years since the car first rolled off the assembly line you have no way of being positive that the ID number shown on the title is correct for the car itself unless you lift the body. Some states will assign a new vin number and attach it to either the body or the frame. If that's the case no problem. But if you can't match the ID number on the title to the actual car you're taking a chance. JMO

Thank you! I already have been able to verify the original engine is in the vehicle and it's number matches that on the title. Didn't know it was also under the body too.

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[RemyKS]

Originally Posted by Marshall V. Daut

You write that the Model A you are buying is a 1931 Fordor. There were two versions in 1931: the straight windshield and the slant windshield. The slant w/s is called the "late" 1931 because it came out about May or June of that year, replacing the straight windshield body.
The reason you should be aware which body you are buying is important. The straight w/s body was built around a wooden structure, which tends to rot and deteriorate over the years. This will affect how the doors hang, open and close. Check all four doors for opening and closing properly and make sure the pillars where the hinges are screwed in are not rotting or have turned soft. Take an ice pick with you to poke around on the wood pieces, especially the large wooden sills that the body is mounted on.
If the body is a slant w/s, you can forget all the foregoing: it's built around a steel cage and only has wood in the body for tacking in upholstery panels and for the top. This makes the slant w/s body more sturdy.
Some guys like the slant w/s look, others prefer the straight windshield body. Your choice...
Marshall

It is a flat windshield Fordor. I'll look into the wood issues and evaluate. Fingers crossed! Wood kits look expensive and time consuming to replace. Makes me wish it was a slant.

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[RemyKS]

Originally Posted by Kurt in NJ

There is a good chance that from sitting that long there is a thick layer of sludge in the pan obscuring the oil screen and oil pump .
Unless you can verify that it is pumping oil don’t run it.
Many times it is necessary to poke a passageway through the sludge just to drain the oil.

The current owner has changed the oil and the oil pump is working, he did not drop the pan so wondering if there is that thick layer of sludge living in there still.

He also replaced the starter, distributor cap, battery, some wiring and the fuel line with a new filter. He said he wasn't sure about the generator yet though. Original carburetor with a rebuild and cleaning.

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[RemyKS]

Originally Posted by al's28/33

Congrats on your upcoming custodianship. Be prepared for expenses that will drain your pockets, but remember the end goal, love of the hobby and keep your "A" safely on the road.

Thank you! I saw a button on someone's model A that said "Do it till you're satisfied". I guess I should add, "and it's safe!".

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[Marshall V. Daut]

"Wood kits look expensive and time consuming to replace."

Correct on both counts. Trust me: You do NOT want to install a Fordor wood kit in your FIRST Model A. The term "kit" in this case is misleading. The pieces in such a kit don't fit together nicely like a plastic model car kit. You'll need a small woodworking shop to make the rough kit pieces fit together, which NEVER do right out of the box. Such a job is daunting and overwhelming enough for a seasoned Model A guy to take on. One's first Model A should be all together, running and needing only repairs that common household tools can handle. More complicated problems than that can be a hobby-killer and bank account drainer in a heartbeat. These cars are not as simple as some misinformed people would have you believe. You'll find that out soon enough.
Look at this wooden Fordor structure that Brent Terry built in his restoration shop. Ask HIM how easy it was to install a wood "kit". And this photo doesn't even show the wood in the doors or the many top cross bows! $$$$$$$$$$$$. If the wood is marginal in the Fordor you are considering buying, run - don't walk - away and find a better, more solid car. Your sanity, bank account and wife will thank you.
Marshall
1929 Murray Town Sedan

[rotorwrench]

The wood is generally made a little on the large side to allow for fit so it all has to be adjusted. Old wood can be repaired to a certain degree but the car has to be out of the elements when not in use. Some folks only replace the bad parts an some members can be spliced but a person needs patterns to do stuff like that. Without original parts or at least good patterns, a person flies blind when starting a restoration on one of these cars. If the wood is good then a person can patch old nail holes for top and trim with tooth picks and modern glues.