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#1 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2022
Location: San Antonio Texas
Posts: 546
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In the first year of our relationship, I treated the Wretched Roadster to a complete wiring loom, new turn signal system, Logo Lite LED headlights, LED tail/turn signals, simple on/off power switch to replace the intermittent popout switch, proper new cable from battery to starter, and new woven mesh ground strap, and I wire brushed the ground connection to the frame until it was bright and shiny. Also put in a modern Bendix drive, Optima 6 volt battery, and kept the generator already in place. I kept the battery hooked to a maintainer when in the garage.
Also Ford V8 points, new coil and condenser, and added a glass tube-style fuse kit, mounted on the starter. Bought a dozen replacement fuses. Got it? Some 3,000 miles later, the right hand headlight began flickering, and would cut out intermittently especially when I hit a bump. I disassembled it, found nothing visibly wrong, and reassembled it with dielectric grease. Thinking the glass-tube fuse holder might be at fault, I replaced it with a modern spade-type fuse holder. Butt-connectors, shrink wrap, dielectric grease. The lights worked! Tired from several trips to hardware stores, I distractedly left the ignition switch on overnight. In the morning the battery was dead. I switched in a spare and while I was at it, carefully examined the battery cable to the starter (fine) and positive mesh ground, which had a little bit of green corrosion , but no big deal. With the new battery, The Wretched Roadster started right up (no burnt points, whew). Then the headlights began flickering again, cutting out, and the horn also ran intermittently, and when it did work it sounded like the audible equivalent of the flickering lights. Basically, rapid intermittent connection. I noticed the bolt holding the two leads to the cutout was loose, but it wouldn’t stay tight, as if the threads were worn. I replaced it with a spare, added dielectric grease, and hallelujah! That nice fat a-WOO-ga sound returned, and the headlights worked too! Then last weekend the starter wouldn’t turn the engine over at all. Not a creak, not a sigh, nothing. Headlights dark. The battery tender showed full charge. Oddly, the horn and rear lights worked, but the turn signals didn’t. I can’t hand-crank the engine because I’d added a high compression head, but two friends push started it, and it ran like a champ. I drove The Wretched Roadster to James Taylor (Taylor Made Motors) in New Braunfels, an hour away. A few head scratching hours later and chasing down blind alleys, and it’s lighting, honking, signaling, and starting perfectly. Care to guess the problem and solution?
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David in San Antonio Late ‘30 Deluxe "Wretched Roadster" Alamo A’s Club |
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#2 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Western North Carolina
Posts: 5,872
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I suggest you add a volt meter. That can help you with the condition of the battery and the charging circuit. It can also tell you if the starter is drawing down the battery voltage, as it normally would.
It sounds like you have a wiring issue, which should not be of any surprise. In my experience most electrical problems are due to loose or bad connections or bad switches. Next time it happens chase it down with your voltmeter. If the starter is not cranking then that can only mean a few things: Bad starter, bad switch, bad connections at the battery or ground connection. You did not mention a ground connection to the engine (usually at a transmission bolt). If you don't have that, add it (in addition to the frame ground). The starter and headlight issues can easily be separate things. Maybe a bad headlight switch.
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A is for apple, green as the sky. Step on the gas, for tomorrow I die. Forget the brakes, they really don't work. The clutch always sticks, and starts with a jerk. My car grows red hair, and flies through the air. Driving's a blast, a blast from the past. Last edited by nkaminar; 05-01-2025 at 01:47 PM. |
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#3 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: 34.22 N 118.36 W
Posts: 1,181
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grounds
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As Carroll Smith wrote; All Failures are Human in Origin. |
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#4 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2021
Posts: 243
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Add a ground strap to the transmission.
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#5 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2017
Location: Guthrie, OK
Posts: 1,247
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All the above. Add a ground wire between headlight conduits and frame, both sides. Should help.
If the internal threads in the cutout are worn you should replace the cutout or repair it if you can. A lot of current runs through that connection. |
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#6 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2022
Location: San Antonio Texas
Posts: 546
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Thanks to all.
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David in San Antonio Late ‘30 Deluxe "Wretched Roadster" Alamo A’s Club |
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#7 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: NNNNNNNNJJJJJJJJJJ
Posts: 7,650
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the title sounds like a bad sci fi movie!
lol |
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#8 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Western North Carolina
Posts: 5,872
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David, Glad you got it fixed. Also, thanks for the follow up to let us know what worked.
__________________
A is for apple, green as the sky. Step on the gas, for tomorrow I die. Forget the brakes, they really don't work. The clutch always sticks, and starts with a jerk. My car grows red hair, and flies through the air. Driving's a blast, a blast from the past. |
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