Drilled too damned deep!

[47topless]

I have a '47 59AB. I was working on the engine, on a stand, and I tipped the damned thing over onto the concrete floor. Broke off three cylinder head studs below the block surface and have started the process of drilling out the broken stud ends and installing Time-Serts in the holes to accept the new head studs. Two of the hole drillings went great but on the last one, I drilled too deep and entered the coolant chamber.
In the bad hole, if I finish installing the Time-Sert and apply a liberal amount of JB Weld to the new stud before installing, will this seal the hole and prevent a coolant leak in that hole? These broken studs are located on the lower rear bank below the battery.
Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
Thank you,
Phil

[KiWinUS]

Originally Posted by 47topless

I have a '47 59AB. I was working on the engine, on a stand, and I tipped the damned thing over onto the concrete floor. Broke off three cylinder head studs below the block surface and have started the process of drilling out the broken stud ends and installing Time-Serts in the holes to accept the new head studs. Two of the hole drillings went great but on the last one, I drilled too deep and entered the coolant chamber.
In the bad hole, if I finish installing the Time-Sert and apply a liberal amount of JB Weld to the new stud before installing, will this seal the hole and prevent a coolant leak in that hole? These broken studs are located on the lower rear bank below the battery.
Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
Thank you,
Phil

Phil. They all go into the water jackets. Well the are 2 on each side that don’t on some engines. All the studs need the correct stud sealant on them prior to assembly.

[tubman]

I'd reconsider using JB Weld on the stud. There are better sealants. Maybe to fill the extra drill hole, but not the stud.

[69a]

I would avoid using anything permanent, just use Permatex Aviation or #2. Something non-setting.
Your grandson might want to work on it one day

[47topless]

Originally Posted by KiWinUS

Phil. They all go into the water jackets. Well the are 2 on each side that don’t on some engines. All the studs need the correct stud sealant on them prior to assembly.

Thank you,
This is wonderful news. I guess what I'm seeing in the first two drilled holes, are just the bottoms of the old studs and not the bottoms of the holes. (They ain't no stinkin' bottoms in the holes!)
I will certainly use the correct sealant on the new studs.
Thank you

[ThirstyThirty]

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tm: "I'd reconsider using JB Weld on the stud. There are better sealants. Maybe to fill the extra drill hole, but not the stud."

69a: "I would avoid using anything permanent, just use Permatex Aviation or #2. Something non-setting. Your grandson might want to work on it one day."

I have a lot of experience using both products. I still use JB often. I do like it. I used to use it commercially. and that was in an engine building environment... never had a failure!

The Aviation Permatex will be a better choice to seal stud threads to block threads where water is or can be present. To use the JB product, some very special efforts would need to be made to ensure proper cleanliness, particularly down in the block's threads.

Hence, Aviation Permatex is a much better choice and it is much more forgiving, too.

Good Luck with your engine project. and don't think you are the only guy who has ever had an engine on the stand... tip over!!

It is always an event sure to ruin one's day!! not too long ago I had to move a long inline engine. I knew the risks! I cut the back of the stand's post down, rewelded to where the base leg going fwd was only a couple inches from the pan. then added 2x4 to fit in front-brace, front to base. I did not want it to tip over and knew the risk was more than casual!

the move went without a hitch!

[big job]

I am going through the same misrable problem studs must have a high carbon content to snap instead of bend I will fab a floor stand with a plate on the same plane as the block and use a mag.drill fingers crossed.

[47topless]

Originally Posted by big job

I am going through the same misrable problem studs must have a high carbon content to snap instead of bend I will fab a floor stand with a plate on the same plane as the block and use a mag.drill fingers crossed.

I wish you luck. There is some tolerance allowed, when drilling the holes for the Time-Sert, because the holes will get cut for the threads, but it is important to make the holes, as straight as possible, so that the studs are straight which facilitates installing the head easily.
Again, GOOD LUCK!!!

[KiWinUS]

Originally Posted by 47topless

I wish you luck. There is some tolerance allowed, when drilling the holes for the Time-Sert, because the holes will get cut for the threads, but it is important to make the holes, as straight as possible, so that the studs are straight which facilitates installing the head easily.
Again, GOOD LUCK!!!

Removing broken studs in a hole that is NOT blind and is open to water jackets whether it’s a Ford Flathead a Chevy or anything else. I been building engines for over 55 years from flatheads to race engines for some of the top series in the world.
Drill an 1/8” hole through broken off studs. An Oxy/Acetylene torch is needed ( and for sure some experience using oxy /acetylene set) use Cutting torch set how you would cut 1/4” plate simply blow the broken stud out. The threads in block will not even get red. After blowing out all remains of stud simply run a tread chaser in to clean up. Been using this process 50 years.

[Kurt in NJ]

Lock and stitch company has a line of “full torque” inserts and they have blind hole inserts for such a problem.