31 Five Window Coupe Too Small

[pjdeb]

A new Model A owner in the area has a 31 Five window coupe with a rumble seat. He is too big to get in easily. He has asked if anyone knows a way to modiy the steering wheel. I do not think so, but thought I would ask.

Please: no answers like "trade it for a tudor or fordor.

[Fat]

I don’t have pics of but I’m 6’3 400# +/- a water pill.
I have found it is most comfortable and easy to get in Andy Griffith style,
That is, open the passenger door and skoot over to the controls.

[rotorwrench]

On the 28/29, the package tray can be shortened about an inch to move the seat back a bit. The 30/31 types may not have that option. Other ways are removing the seat springs and building new cushions from foam pads on wood backings to bring the rear cushion back and/or shortening the bottom cushion. There aren't a lot of other options in this respect but this is a common way of making due.

[JayJay]

Had the same problem with my ‘30 pickup (well, my bride with two hip replacements did). We solved it by switching to a Town Sedan.

[Y-Blockhead]

I wonder if a smaller wheel would help any? My problem lies with the interference bwtween my right leg, steering wheel and shifter.

With the original transmission, I just bent the shifter to the right. Now that I have a Mitchell transmission, I have no interference because the shift throw is so much shorter.

Edit; I forgot to add I also moved the seat 3" rearward.

[ModelAArmy]

Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements)

When we bought our model A ,it had no interior so we bought a seat on slider from glide engineering and installed it without package tray. Now my 6’4” son can drive it comfortably.IMG_0739.jpeg

[nkaminar]

One thing to do is to tilt the steering column up higher by an inch or so. A modified bracket that holds the column would have to be used. The holes in the frame may have to be enlarged a tad.

[Marshall V. Daut]

I was thinking the same thing, but was stymied by the mounting hole issue. However, lots of frames have those holes worn oversized from the wrong bolts being used by "restorers" or original bolts somehow working loose. This is usually accompanied by the hole in the frame for the sector shaft also being worn oversized, the lower portion receiving the brunt of the wear. All these factors may be of advantage in the poster's car if he shortens the late 1931 steering bracket and tilts the column upwards. He might not have to make any frame hole modifications. A little extra tension on the column will not hurt anything if its angle is changed, but don't force it. Loosen the mounting bolts on the frame and push the column up. If it fights you, stop and open up the rear mounting bolt hole to allow the column to be titled upwards a bit more. Then tighten the nuts on those bolts and check for binding at the steering wheel. You won't gain much by altering the angle of the steering column alone, but in tandem with other suggestions made so far, you just might swing it after all!
Marshall

[Benson]

....

[mercman from oz]

[John D]

The first vehicle we looked at was a 30 Deluxe convertible. Beautiful car, but my wife struggled to get in it.

Our Kawaski Mule front seat seams longer than our 4 dr Sedan front seat.

Maybe try and replace the steering wheel with something smaller to give him more room.

[Marshall V. Daut]

'Kind of a radical solution, but...Model T steering wheels are dished towards the floorboard, the center being higher than the rim. Because Model A steering wheels are flat, reversing them won't help. If a Model T steering wheel could somehow be adapted to a Model A by cutting out the center portion of the A steering wheel and mating it in the center of a T wheel, that would provide an extra couple inches of clearance. Since almost anything done in the steering column area will alter the original look, this would just be one more deviation. It would be best to cut up a badly cracked Model A steering wheel, which usually crack right about where you'd cut the spokes. Such a steering wheel could be had for next to nothing. Keep the good steering wheel for the occasion of going back to original.
Marshall

[Marshall V. Daut]

By the way, both Model A and T steering wheels are steel, so after chipping away the soybean (?) from the Model A steering wheel's hub, the T and A spokes could be welded together to make a strong steering wheel. Whether the owner would then want to build up the naked spokes with an epoxy is optional. I've repaired missing chunks in steering wheels with an "All Steel" or "All Metal" epoxy.
Marshall

[wuga]

Did this a couple of years back. I'm 6' and 240 lbs, so I was having difficulty getting in my 1931 RPU. I installed a 15" 1940 steering wheel from Roadster Supply. Made quite a difference. The hub is a keyway but slightly different taper, a half round file took care of that. In order to use the center controls required trimming the steering column cover behind the wheel and grinding off the back of the wheel. This wheel comes with a standard horn button but the original 1931 can be adapted. I looked at reducing the diameter of the original wheel but wasn't keen on rebuilding the rim from new epoxy. It would be great if someone came out with a 15" Model A wheel. Another thing, if you think the steering is heavy with an 18" wheel, wait until you install a 15" wheel. I installed a Randy Gross steering box to alleviate the problem and all is well.
Warren

[nkaminar]

Year ago I made a steering wheel for a MGA. I cut it out of aluminum and added material around the rim. (I cannot remember the details.). I bought the car without a steering wheel.

[BRENT in 10-uh-C]

I obtained the print for the purpose of remaking a smaller diameter wheel. My opinion is a 2" smaller diameter wheel could be made however the costs would likely be more than $1k which most hobbyists would not see as a value.

If someone is creative enough, the original wheel can have the Fordite removed exposing the metal foundation on the end portion of the spokes and the entire rim. Use a roller to form a small diameter ring out of tubing to use as the hand grip area. Weld the tube to the spokes. Use body filler on the spokes and the rim to recreate the shape like the original wheel. Use casting silicone rubber to make the mould. Remove the body filler and remaining Fordite on the wheel and then cast new rubber in the mould to cover the new wheel.

[Marshall V. Daut]

Here's another off-the-wall idea: The spokes of the Model A steering wheel are metal coated with soybean or plastic. If you removed that coating, you could heat the exposed metal arms at their bases near the hub and bend them downwards to make the steering wheel dish-shaped like a Model T steering wheel, with the hub now being the highest point. Wrap the hub and rim portions with wet cloths while heating the bases of the spokes so that they won't get hot and melt. Afterwards, just sand and spray paint the steering wheel spokes and hub to match. By doing this, you would gain maybe 2-3 inches clearance, yet still be able to use the hub of the steering wheel for the light switch rod.
Marshall

[steve hackel]

Most issues are not specific enough to address them with just a simple, short and
easy answer. If it's only the "ingress & egress" of the drivers side entry, then you
have to live with the only 2 choices available - drivers side or passengers side doors.
If you are referring to more room between the steering wheel and the drivers seated
position, then you deal with the position of the seat. Start by removing the package
tray to make room for the repositioning of the seat. next, unbolt the seat from its

rails and then increase its height, while at the same time moving it backwards.

Technically you are just lengthening the Hypotenuse of the seated triangle.

You have the location of the pedals - the seat back - and the top of the seats back.
I am 6'4" and the majority of that is my legs ! I ended up raising the factory seat
in my 31 coupe by about 3" +/- and also moved the seat backwards by about 4",

but I still used the factory style seat tracks for minor adjustments. I first made
some wooden risers to get things close, then built metal risers or spacers that would
allow me to use the factory seat frame, the factory seat tracks, and the factory holes
in the bottom of the seat frame. It works perfectly without any modifications to anything, or any additional holes drilled - for what ever that might be worth.