40 door lock questions

[busmania]

I am taking my car to get the interior done in a few weeks and I decided rather than ignoring the lock, I should see if it works. This is on the passenger side only (as original). The door does lock using the handle inside. However, I can’t get my key to unlock it from the outside. The key is kind of fragile so I don’t want to force it. I sprayed some penetrating oil into the lock yesterday but that didn’t really change anything. The key turns the ignition cylinder fine and obviously the door key could be different but I highly doubt it. This car was very original.

1. Which way does the key go in? Pointy side facing the rear of car or front?

2. How much force is needed when turning?

3. Does anyone make new keys that may work better for me?

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[Ken/Alabama]

Gotta lock it with the key and unlock it with the key.

[tubman]

"32phil" on this forum is the lock and key guru on this forum. Send him a PM.

[deuce lover]

Your lock cyl appears to have been replaced.The slot should be vertical and teeth up when inserting the key.Its not OEM IMO. I suggest replacing it with an OEM.They are out there and common.

[Kube]

Originally Posted by deuce lover

Your lock cyl appears to have been replaced.The slot should be vertical and teeth up when inserting the key.Its not OEM IMO. I suggest replacing it with an OEM.They are out there and common.

This is 100% accurate in response. That door lock is not correct.
I'd suggest acquiring a correct lock and have Phil re-key it to match your ignition lock.

[deuce lover]

Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements)

Here is an example on EBAY.Item number 155764671782. Seller doesn't show pic of shank.Verify that the length is correct.
Phil is in FL for the winter so you need to wait until April if you need key work done.

[Terry,OH]

In addition to the above your key is not like originals The original style key is reproduced so not hard to get.

[32phil]

Hi All
Yes I am in Florida. I spoke to my daughter this morning and she told me it was -1.
She wouldn't get out of the car to get my mail! Sooo I'm staying till April for sure.
The lock pictured is indeed aftermarket. The key looks like it's the correct style blank but not an original Ford/Hurd key.
I have the correct door lock in the shop at home. I have both used and NOS.
I can match it to your existing ignition key as well.
I have quite a few NOS door locks. I would like to get them out to folks that can use them rather than collecting dust till my kids throw them out along with my ashes.
Buy a NOS lock and I'll match it to your ignition for $40 plus postage
Any questions or gossip call my cell 845 551 5132
Thanks for the referrals guys.
Stay Well (and warm!) everyone.

[deuce_roadster]

I really like the attitude of this forum, we are all here to try to help each other and the experts like DavidG, Kube, 32Phil and others always chime in with correct info to questions.

[TJ]

Since the lock is a replacement the OP might get lucky and be able to remove the set screw with no problems.

[tubman]

Originally Posted by TJ

Since the lock is a replacement the OP might get lucky and be able to remove the set screw with no problems.

If he starts spraying it with penetrant now. These can be a problem. If you have not done one before, I believe there are a few threads on this forum that it would be worthwhile to check out.

[signsup]

Don't mean to hijack thread, but mewbie here and I have Bubba ignition and key overriding the original steering column key and starter button, but all are present. No key in steering column but it moves freely. I'd be interested in getting the OE ignition set up working, door locks and a trunk lock all working. Is this someting that one member or vendor can assist with to prevent three different keys for three different locks? Can certainly wait till April as car currently operates. 42 Mercury Town Sedan. Thanks.

[signsup]

Apologies. Whenever someone starts a thread with the words, "don't mean to hijack", that is exactly what they intend. Just thought is was related to the OP enought to pass muster.

[Zeke3]

Busmania, be careful with that key, it looks like it is on it’s last leg with that slight bend in it at the narrowest point.

Signsup, 32Phil is the guy to help resolve the lock situation. You might try to remove the door lock cylinder and the glove box cylinder to see if they have the lock code number on the side of them. As mentioned above, be careful when trying to remove the door cylinder, it is very easy to damage the slotted set screw. Start spraying it with penetrant now.

[busmania]

Originally Posted by Zeke3

Busmania, be careful with that key, it looks like it is on it’s last leg with that slight bend in it at the narrowest point.

Signsup, 32Phil is the guy to help resolve the lock situation. You might try to remove the door lock cylinder and the glove box cylinder to see if they have the lock code number on the side of them. As mentioned above, be careful when trying to remove the door cylinder, it is very easy to damage the slotted set screw. Start spraying it with penetrant now.

Yes, I am very careful! The only time I actually turn the key and remove it is if I am somewhere where I cant see the car (like running errands). Otherwise I dont touch it and leave it in the "on" position as is when in my garage. Of course I leave the ignition switch off so nothing is draining the battery.

Thanks yall. Sounds like I have some reading to do on removing the door lock (and possibly ignition). I'd love for hte keys to match but for now I am concerned with the door. I want to fix that before the interior gets done then I can focus on the ignition.

[busmania]

I didn’t realize the set screw was accessible from the outside of the door. So, I just went and had a look. It looks boogered up! I can’t even tell if it’s a slotted screw or Allen? Should I just drill it out if I’m going to get a new original lock anyway?

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[ford38v8]

Originally Posted by busmania

I didn’t realize the set screw was accessible from the outside of the door. So, I just went and had a look. It looks boogered up! I can’t even tell if it’s a slotted screw or Allen? Should I just drill it out if I’m going to get a new original lock anyway?

Attachment 559244

Good luck with that. If you get it out, share your methods with the rest of us!

[Kube]

Originally Posted by TJ

Since the lock is a replacement the OP might get lucky and be able to remove the set screw with no problems.

I was just thinking that AND wishing him the same good fortune.

[Kube]

Originally Posted by busmania

I didn’t realize the set screw was accessible from the outside of the door. So, I just went and had a look. It looks boogered up! I can’t even tell if it’s a slotted screw or Allen? Should I just drill it out if I’m going to get a new original lock anyway?

Attachment 559244

The original was slotted. Often enough it has been replaced with an indented hex screw.
BE careful removing it and avoid drilling if at all possible.

I have had good luck removing the door panel and heating up the sheet metal sleeve that screw resides in.

[busmania]

Am I in trouble if I screw up the sleeve? It appears that the set screw is neither slotted or an Allen style. I’m kind of thinking maybe someone has already started trying to drill it out…

What’s the issue with just drilling it out?