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#1 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2023
Location: Summerfield, NC
Posts: 228
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Good morning,
Six months back, I installed aluminum heads on my 1935 85 HP Flathead. It appears I have developed a coolant seep into one of the cylinders based upon the steam I am spewing at first start up. After it gets hot the steam ceases. No coolant is in the oil. I have re-torqued the head nuts several times without success in stopping the seep. Local NAPA suggested what they call gasket shellac. I have two bottles ready once I pull the heads. Any recommendations based upon your experience would be appreciated? |
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#2 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2013
Location: Minnesota, Florida Keys
Posts: 11,632
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Did you put sealer on the head studs or bolts when you installed them?
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#3 | |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: NJ
Posts: 6,917
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There is a copper head gasket sealant aerosol product, but understand this product is also a form of glue, so be mindful using this if you plan to remove the heads somewhere down the road. |
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#4 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: SoCal-Redlands
Posts: 3,413
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What brand head gaskets are you using and what does the manufacturer recommend? When I installed my EAB heads I used Best gaskets. They recommended a spray on sealer. Permatex I think but not positive. No leaks and I did seal the head bolts using Permatex #2 per the machinist who rebuilt the short block. Again, no leak issues. JMO
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Making the simple complicated for over 30 years. |
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#5 | |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: NJ
Posts: 6,917
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#6 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Jacksonville FL
Posts: 4,804
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#7 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Wisconsin, USA
Posts: 9,850
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Permatex copper spray. Two coats allowed to dry prior to installation.
I have never understood guys wanting to reuse gaskets. Gaskets are cheap. The idea of installing a gasket is to do it correctly the first time. That is, no leaks.
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"I can explain it for you. However, I can't understand it for you". |
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#8 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2013
Location: Minnesota, Florida Keys
Posts: 11,632
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I use Fel-Pro composite gaskets, a properly prepared surface, and grease. No problem removing heads and no leaks after I got the "knack" of doing it. Sealing the studs/bolts in the block is mandatory. I always use genuine Ford bolts rather than studs to avoid the problems our friend Ken is currently having. I am exclusively an "8BA guy", but I don't see why they couldn't be used on the earlier engines.
I use aluminum aftermarket heads, and have found the clearances in the head bolt holes to be excessive, leading to alinement problems. I have heard that the manufacturers purposely make them larger to make installation and removal easier. I use a couple of pieces of aluminum tubing that fits snugly over the bolts and bore out a couple of head bolt holes to exactly fit the outside of the tubing to keep the heads in alinement. Since I have started doing this, I have had no problems with head installation. There is a little more to it than putting them on and tightening the fasteners. |
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#9 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Wisconsin, USA
Posts: 9,850
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I prefer the composite gaskets as well. I am fortunate enough to have a large supply of NOS.
I remain in the "copper spray" crowd.
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"I can explain it for you. However, I can't understand it for you". |
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#10 | |
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Jacksonville FL
Posts: 4,804
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As I stated, I had just basically set the head down on the block and pulled my first torque to 35ft lbs.....I am not cheap NOR do I have ANY Problem buying another head gasket, as a matter of fact, the moment I knew I had to pull the head back off, I ordered another head gasket.....before I loosened ONE head nut. "Someone" mentioned to me that I "might" be able to use the old gasket since I had not significantly torqued it (In my mind I know that's not good either way, hence ordering another, straight away) BUT I figured I could be "humored" IF the gasket even came back off with any integrity what so ever. IT did not!!!!! I installed my gaskets JUST as you described, paint all three, head, block & gasket (both sides), allowed them dry to a very very slight tack, then installed.......EVEN at 35ft Lbs, its STUCK!!! |
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#11 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2023
Location: Summerfield, NC
Posts: 228
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Thanks all... I seem to recall composite gaskets and from Third Gen.
I did not seal around the head bolts. You all have given me some good material... I'll look into the spray. |
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#12 | |
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Jacksonville FL
Posts: 4,804
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What torque are you torquing the head nuts to??? Was this a fresh rebuild motor OR was it a runner that hasn't been apart other than you 'just" pulling the head off of??? ONE of the big questions STILL is "IF" a fresh rebuild, did you seal the head studs? "IF" it was a runner and you are doing a little "freshening up", did any of the head studs come loose when you removed the heads?? IF so did you "re-seal" the threads?? OR did you "maybe" chase the threads in the block to "clean" them with a "TAP"??? IF you used a"Best Brand" gasket (which Michael sells) and torqued the heads to the proper torque.....YOU shouldn't have had any issues |
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#13 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2023
Location: Summerfield, NC
Posts: 228
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Actually they were from Van Pelt
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#14 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: California
Posts: 914
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In 1960 Wisconsin, I removed heads on a barn-find '40 pickup once to free up pistons with Liquid Wrench. Put the heads back on with the same gasket(s), tightened the heads from the center out. No problem after.
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#15 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2017
Location: ohio
Posts: 1,103
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Fel-pro on 2 different engines, no leaks, no problems.
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#16 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Central Ohio
Posts: 5,723
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When you pull the heads off of the engine, pay very close attention to the gasket that is on the leaking side. If you have a blown gasket, you can usually see where it is blown. Take some close up pictures of the fire-ring on both sides and post them. If the gasket gets completely destroyed, then take pictures of the head and block surfaces - those might tell us something.
Hopefully that is all that it is. If you find that after you install new head gaskets you still have an issue, you might try some Moroso Ceramic seal - it can help if you have some seeping in studs and might even seal a small crack. |
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#17 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Eagle River,Alaska
Posts: 370
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Head sealant.jpgI'm gonna throw out a suggestion here. I have been chasing a problem with my wife's off topic turbo charged suv. It has been throwing a code for misfire on #1 cyl at startup. I have replaced everything that is suggested to possibly cause it to no avail. It also was using a small amount of antifreeze every week or so randomly. The previous series of this motor had a known block issue that caused this (between #2 & #3 cyls) and the cure was a new motor. I picked up a bottle of this CRC head gasket & block repair. It cured the problem so far & it's been over a month with no codes or antifreeze consumption. I don't know if it would work on the flatheads, but it might be worth a try. It has some type of mil-spec fibers in it.
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#18 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2023
Location: Summerfield, NC
Posts: 228
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More good ideas here. I really appreciate it 'outlaw'. When I finally have a diagnoses/fix... I'll post again my results. Would have been into it already but 91 year old Korean War Vet Father-in-law just passed and so repairs on hold till next week. Thanks!
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#19 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: North Dakota
Posts: 1,786
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My condolences.
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I dig coal, which provides motivation for EVs. |
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#20 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Eagle River,Alaska
Posts: 370
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Sorry for your loss, my condolences to you and your family also.
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