Which Head Gasket?

['29 Pickup]

I am leaning towards the gasket which promises no unsightly weeping at the joint.
It has a silicone bead running almost all the way around.
I know people recommend the graphite version.

Which one would you suggest I go for? I do like the promise of no rusty water marks on my hopefully, shiny restored engine.

Many thanks

[JayJay]

Originally Posted by '29 Pickup

I am leaning towards the gasket which promises no unsightly weeping at the joint.
It has a silicone bead running almost all the way around.
I know people recommend the graphite version.

Which one would you suggest I go for? I do like the promise of no rusty water marks on my hopefully, shiny restored engine.

Many thanks

This topic is right up there with “what’s the best oil to use in a Model A” in terms of deeply held convictions. I’ve tried the “modern” gasket with the silicone and had it leak. I have used the Best brand #509G graphite gasket with copper spray sealant for the last half dozen or so head gasket replacements over several cars and will be hard pressed to change. This combo works great for me.

If you get water marks on your engine you have deeper problems than being unsightly.

['29 Pickup]

Originally Posted by JayJay

I’ve tried the “modern” gasket with the silicone and had it leak.
If you get water marks on your engine you have deeper problems than being unsightly.

Teflon paste on the studs during installation: belt and braces or causes other issues?
Thanks

[butch chase]

The Best brand Graphite 509G with spray CopperKote is excellent it's the only one folks in my area will use.

everyone Ive seen use the one with the silicon rings or copper sandwich has had leaks/ seepage down the left side of block.
yes use Teflon pipe dope on studs going into the block.

[nkaminar]

I am going to go with Jay Jay on this one (post #2). I also tried the "modern" gasket and had leaks. I think it is OK if your block and head are perfect, but who's engine is perfect?

[JayJay]

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Originally Posted by '29 Pickup

Teflon paste on the studs during installation: belt and braces or causes other issues?
Thanks

I use either gray (moly, I think) or gold (copper) antiseize on the block side of the head studs, none on the top. On any studs that have punched into the water jacket I use Permatex #2. I generally replace the head studs with new high strength each time unless I know that I’ve replaced them recently. Chase the threads in the block with a special thread restoring tap, not with a “normal” thread cutting tap.

Using antiseize on the studs enables you to back them out in the future using two thin jam nuts. I’ve found that temoving most of the studs before makes removing the head easier.

['29 Pickup]

Originally Posted by JayJay

I chase the threads in the block with a special thread restoring tap, not with a “normal” thread cutting tap.

I assume you mean this sort of thread cleaning chaser:

[katy]

That's ARP 911-0004 (I had to look it up)

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/a...hoCz94QAvD_BwE

[alexiskai]

Originally Posted by '29 Pickup

I assume you mean this sort of thread cleaning chaser:

FWIW, and I know people feel different ways about this, but that ARP chaser in your picture is the best chaser for head stud bores. Most 7/16-14 chasers are designed for a class 1 or 2 fit, so they're slightly narrower than the threads on the actual stud. The ARP chaser is the only one I've found where the tolerances are equal to the original Ford specs for that threaded joint. It's kinda expensive though.

['29 Pickup]

Originally Posted by alexiskai

FWIW, and I know people feel different ways about this, but that ARP chaser in your picture is the best chaser for head stud bores. Most 7/16-14 chasers are designed for a class 1 or 2 fit, so they're slightly narrower than the threads on the actual stud. The ARP chaser is the only one I've found where the tolerances are equal to the original Ford specs for that threaded joint. It's kinda expensive though.

Is it worth getting the set for this car or are the other sizes not really found on the A ?
Thanks.

ARP Thread Cleaning Chasers 1/4-20 5/16-18 3/8 x 7/16-14 1/2-13 (911-0006)

[JayJay]

Originally Posted by '29 Pickup

Is it worth getting the set for this car or are the other sizes not really found on the A ?
Thanks.

ARP Thread Cleaning Chasers 1/4-20 5/16-18 3/8 x 7/16-14 1/2-13 (911-0006)

These are all coarse threads. You will find a lot of fine threads on the Model A. I got a set many years ago similar to this one on the river store, I use it frequently. A set of thread files will also come in very handy.
https://www.amazon.com/Lang-Tools-25...%2C197&sr=8-16

(This looks to me to be the same set as Summit Racing SUM-900199).

[Y-Blockhead]

Originally Posted by JayJay

These are all coarse threads. You will find a lot of fine threads on the Model A. I got a set many years ago similar to this one on the river store, I use it frequently. A set of thread files will also come in very handy.

https://www.amazon.com/Lang-Tools-25...dedynamicse-20

I have that set also. I like it because it has both course and fine thread, internal and external thread chasers.

[alexiskai]

I also have that Lang set. I did buy the full ARP set too, but just to get the 7/16-14 chaser.

[rotorwrench]

I also use the Best copper sandwitch type gasket. Any aluminum or copper pigment spray enamel can be used as a sealant but make sure that the gasket will interface well with your studs so that it can be dropped on while the paint is still soft. I also torque it up with all studs at once in sequence to include that ignition cable clamp on that critical stud location. I don't like taking any nuts loose after initial torque up. The coolant neck also needs to be part of that consideration.

I use this style of thread chasers. Link:
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/s...SABEgLmF_D_BwE

They are less invasive to the thread but do a good job of cleaning and burnishing them back to shape.

[JayJay]

I use Permatex 80697 as my copper spray sealant, it’s off the shelf at my local NAPA store. It does a bit more difficult to remove the gasket later but I’ll put up with that for a good seal.

[rich40701]

I also used the Best brand #509G graphite gasket with copper spray sealant, no leaks. Now the new reproduction brass drain valve is a different story; I cannot get that sucker to stop dripping.

[Synchro909]

I had the same failure that has been mentioned above with the silicone gasket but heard it is not so bad if you ignore the directions and use a sealant. I won't bother trying that - I just use the Best Graphite gasket with copper coloured sealant or Hylomar (blue)

[katy]

Originally Posted by rich40701

Now the new reproduction brass drain valve is a different story; I cannot get that sucker to stop dripping.

If you mean the coolant drain valve, P/N A-8115, you could try disassembling it and lap it using tooth paste.

[TomInCologne]

Originally Posted by Synchro909

I had the same failure that has been mentioned above with the silicone gasket but heard it is not so bad if you ignore the directions and use a sealant. I won't bother trying that - I just use the Best Graphite gasket with copper coloured sealant or Hylomar (blue)

If i remember correctly, that's the gasket where the manufacturer specifically says in the 'destructions' to not, under no circumstances, use any sort of liquid sealant. i would like to know why they say that and why people decide against following manufacturers instructions...

[Keith True]

If you use a sealant on the silicone gasket you can pretty much count on a piece of the gasket right under the water pump popping out.That sealer acts as a lube while being torqued down,and the gasket will break.After a while the piece will pop out.I have two Brumfield heads riding on them,put them on in 04 and 05.But,both the blocks and heads were within .001 when they came back from the machine shop.I did have to get both new Brumfield heads shaved to get them flat.