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#1 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Wheaton, IL (west chicago)
Posts: 558
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So I've got the rear leaf out of the truck and off the rear end.
I wrapped a chain around it, put on two large C-clamps and slowly backed out the center bolt while slowly loosening the clamps. The top 4-5 leafs are now off. The stuff in between is sticky like glue, so I'm glad I'm rebuilding them. Now to the questions.. Should I have taken off the spring end clamps first? It seems to be easier to compress the spring now that 1/2 of the leafs are gone. And by moving the C-clamps to the spring clamps I can now get the spring clamps to wiggle. So how do I take off the spring clamps? Seems to be a rivit or button going thru the strap into the leaf. The strap is held together by what looks to be a long rivit. Are either or both of them re-usable, and if not, where can I get replacements? I was thinking to just chisel off the top rivit...is this correct? I think its cool that strap still has the Ford script on it. ![]() P1110010 (640x480).jpg P1110011 (640x480).jpg
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36 1/2 ton pickup on 38 car frame with 1940 v8 24 stud |
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#2 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Above the gnat line in Georgia
Posts: 7,082
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I just grind the long rivet off and leave the other one, the one that goes through the leaf in place unless it appears that it has to be removed to correct wear in that leaf. You really need a spring spreader to be safe.
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#3 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Wheaton, IL (west chicago)
Posts: 558
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I used a porta-power as a spreader, worked great. Just trying to go slow and safe.
What do you replace the long rivit with, a long nut and bolt? Or do you get an original type rivit and swedge it in there?
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36 1/2 ton pickup on 38 car frame with 1940 v8 24 stud |
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#4 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Posts: 485
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You can use a long bolt and nylock nut which is easy, but does not look good at all, especially if you like the "ford" script on the clamp. You can make a long rivet with a piece of rod stock and heat and peen over one end, install it and hot peen the other end. Or, (my favorite), is to call Roy Nacewicz at Fordbolts and get the tricky rivet that he sells which is a push together affair and it looks just like the original assembly. You can take it back apart without destroying it. You should consider getting a lot of other stuff from Roy as he has all the correct fasteners for you project. Phone 734-654-9450. After 10 trips to the hardware store getting the wrong stuff, you will also want to call Roy.
Just an opinion Floyd |
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#5 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Wheaton, IL (west chicago)
Posts: 558
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Thanks Floyd, that's the kind of stuff I need to hear. I've read/heard a lot about Roy's stuff.
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36 1/2 ton pickup on 38 car frame with 1940 v8 24 stud |
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#6 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Wisconsin, USA
Posts: 9,852
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#7 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Crystal Lake, IL
Posts: 175
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Scott if you take your spring to a auto/truck spring place they will put the rivets in for you. Cheap and very secure.
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John Mc Crystal Lake, IL '39 1/2 Ton Pickup '56 Lincoln Capri Hardtop '77 Lincoln Town Coupe |
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#8 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Wheaton, IL (west chicago)
Posts: 558
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Thanks for the replies...
The spring is apart, I didn't kill or maim myself ![]() The spring end clamps came apart at the corners when I was trying to take the pins out, so new clamps are in order. Now to clean, file, grind, sand, and paint the leafs... Gives me something to do while I'm waiting for my shocks to come back from Bill W. Just sent them today so I've got a ways to go before they come back. IN the meantime I'll get to work on the rear axle housings and stuff. Thanks again..
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36 1/2 ton pickup on 38 car frame with 1940 v8 24 stud |
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#9 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Wheaton, IL (west chicago)
Posts: 558
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Got the spring and rear end reattached to the frame.
Before: P7140027.JPG After: P3050011 (640x480).jpg P3050013 (640x480).jpg That camera flash really shows me where I need to do a bit more detail work! And now that the spring is secured in the frame I plan to replace the spring clamp bolts with the Roy N rivits. Also waiting for my shocks to come back from being rebuilt. Its 30 degrees in the garage, but I'm making progress!
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36 1/2 ton pickup on 38 car frame with 1940 v8 24 stud |
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#10 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Marietta, GA
Posts: 1,199
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is it just me or does the shackle angle almost look horizontal?
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#11 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Wheaton, IL (west chicago)
Posts: 558
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Could be because the rear end is hanging in mid-air with no hubs or drums on it, and the frame is just sitting on jackstands. Those are the same spring, shackles, tie bars, and rear end that came off the car in January. P1060010 (640x480) - Copy.jpg
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36 1/2 ton pickup on 38 car frame with 1940 v8 24 stud |
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#12 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Fairfax, VA
Posts: 3,532
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Be sure and ask Roy for his super catalogue. He goes all out to get us the nuts and bolts we need!
For your springs think about using NAPA part BK 33203 Slip Plate. Fordbarn speaks highly of this stuff. Clem |
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#13 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Wheaton, IL (west chicago)
Posts: 558
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Thanks Clem, already received my first order from Roy. Spring is already assembled with SylGlide picked up from Napa.
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36 1/2 ton pickup on 38 car frame with 1940 v8 24 stud |
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#14 |
Junior Member
Join Date: Jan 2024
Location: Montana
Posts: 1
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For future reference formerly Roy Nacewicz: https://thirdgenauto.com/ford-bolts/>Early Ford V-8 Hardware Offerings
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