Pete and Jakes shock kits on a stock '36?

[sjaakslinger]

Has anyone ever installed kit 5001 and 1070 on a stock '36 (original springs and brakes)?

Summit and P&J of course, offer them, but there's no mention anywhere of different length shocks depending on ride height. P&J's customer service says the completely stock '36 would require longer shocks. The 'standard ' kit would come with too short shocks.[emoji848]

So, my question: has anyone installed the standard offered kits on a stock '36?

Tia.

Dennis

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[terry]

I had the 5001 kit installed for me (36 Ford). It works fine now, but I had to get a new shock from Pete and Jakes because one started to leak. The shocks are made for the kit. Keep in mind that the bolts for the upper and lower mounts are not interchangeable! Also, don't over torque the nuts. The shocks must be able to move a little as the spring moves. My installer didn't realize these things. Now, things are working well. Terry

[feufeu]

I installed the 5001 kit on my 37 stock tudor with mechanical brakes. It works fine.

[sjaakslinger]

Thanks. There was some confusion about the standard P&J kits fitting a stock '36. I had contact with P&J. The kits offered on their site and on Summit's are for lowered '36 cars. They come with shorter shocks!

For a stock ride height, you have to order directly with P&J and mention the stock height. Then the kit comes with larger gas filled shocks. Of course at additional costs.

Doesn't really make sense to me to offer a kit that's 'standard' for a lowered car, but ok. On Summit's site the kits are described as being for 'stock height', but that's not correct.

Dennis

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[sjaakslinger]

Anyone ever installed the rear kit 1070 on a stock ride height 1936? Or '35.

The lower mounts should be welded on the rear axle, 21" from the center of the diff outwards. That's not even possible, 21" brings the mount on the bracket that connects the axle to the rear radius rod. So it would only fit if you position the lower mount about oneandhalf inch inwards.

Anyone else experience with this?

Dennis

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[itslow]

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Originally Posted by sjaakslinger

Anyone ever installed the rear kit 1070 on a stock ride height 1936? Or '35.

That kit really isn't intended for use on a stock rear end. It's meant for something like a 9" in a street rod.


You should be using a setup like one of these:

https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/...t-kit.1127115/

https://www.joesantiqueauto.com/tube...t-48-18125-kit

https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/...nting.1190571/

[sjaakslinger]

Thanks for the links. Joe's Antique kit won't work on stock mech. brakes. Pete and Jakes sells the kit as being suitable for all stock setup, but somehow there are some issues.

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[itslow]

Is there a particular reason why you feel the need to switch to tube shocks but not hydraulic brakes?

Pete and Jakes doesn't really deal with stock Ford stuff. They are street rod / hot rod oriented. They probably aren't aware that the ideal location for their rear lower mount interferes with the factory '35/36 radius rod mounting. The front suspension just happens to be more or less the same whether it's on a stock car or a hot rod.

[sjaakslinger]

We're in The Netherlands. Later Ford parts aren't that readily available as they are in the US. So a hydraulic conversion is a hassle. And as far as I understand good rebuild mechanical brakes will be good enough for the car it will become: a Touring Sedan with a patina look that will only be driven locally.

The original houdaille shocks were beyong repair.

P and J do list the kits for Ford 35-40, so I trust they will work. I guess we'll figure it out with them.

Dennis

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[itslow]

Here's another option for the rear:

https://www.lakeheaders.com/products...th-shock-mount

[TJ]

Those brackets from the Lakeheaders look very nice and would work well on a stock set up. They obviously save a lot of time and there is no need to re-engineer the Pete and Jake ones. The original tube shock kits for the 35-36 ( I don't know who made them) mounted to the wishbone in front of the rear end. Those are hard to find.

[sjaakslinger]

We positioned the lower brackets on their most outward position with the rear axle in the rear radius rod. First a few small welds to hold them in place, then finished them off the car. Looks like they can take an elephant.

From here we'll place the rear axle against the rubber stops to determine the shortest shock length and where to put the upper mounting hole.

Then we'll install the rear axle in the radius rod with the spring tensionned. After the wheel and brake hubs are build up again and the wheels are on, we'll determine the max shock length needed and see from there what shocks we need.

If anyone has any advice or ideas...go ahead!

Dennis

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[Kurt in NJ]

How much has the welding distorted the housings?mI was surprised at how much movement there was in converting a later columbia housing into one for my 36 from the welding.

[sjaakslinger]

None that I saw. But good point. We'll check it out.

To what extent was it distorted?

[Kurt in NJ]

I had put a shim between the axle shafts to make them rigid and use as a reference they ran true when spun,it was easy to have 1/4” movements out by the wheel bearing when welding the housing near the banjo that welding on opposite side corrected.
There was a post in the past by Brent on the model A side showing him heat shrinking housings to straighten them as part of him restoring stock ones and that many original housings are bent,he would put them in a lathe on centers and used a dial indicator on the banjo flange and backing plate flange.

[Kurt in NJ]

https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showt...n+axle+housing

[Andy]

I made shock mounts that bolted thru the radius rod mounts on my 32. No welding. I also made some bolt in mounts on a friends car that used the 35-36 radius rods. Gets the shocks more outboard and better room on the crossmember to mount them. The shocks were not coil overs.